The Most Beautiful Ride in the World


There’s a ride out west which bills itself as “America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride.” It circumvents Lake Tahoe in California and Nevada and it sure is beautiful. Maybe the title is a little presumptuous but it surely is in the top ten of beautiful rides in the U.S.

Arth-Goldau. Cog Railway

Today I cast my vote for my most beautiful ride in the world. I would not have found it without Ben. I learned a lot about trains and bikes in Switzerland today. Ben and I (but mostly Ben) thought we had a plan but there were many moving parts. And not all went so well. We left Ben’s house at 6:40 a.m. and walked to the train station in Sissach.

Airola, Switzerland

When the train for Zürich came we tried to be aligned with the car that takes bikes. We weren’t. Ben spotted it and we rushed with two bikes, a bike case, and two suitcases. And barely made it.

Airola, Switzerland

It was a relaxing train ride to the Zürich Main Station. There we found the DHL luggage drop-off, mainly because I had used it before but have no idea when, how, or why. The cost for day storage was 12 CHF per bag. I loaded both my two extra bags into the empty bike case to make it one bag instead of three. This is beating the system.

Airola, Switzerland
Rolling through town and already climbing

Ben had tried yesterday to make a reservation for our bikes for the train out of Zürich and could not. He assumed the app or website was not working properly but it may have been because they were sold out of bike reservations. But it didn’t show that way.

Tremola Road

In Zürich, we rushed over to the track and Ben asked a conductor about getting our bikes on the train. She told him he needed a bike reservation and there were none available. Ben said he had been trying but their app wasn’t working. After some back and forth she told him to see the conductor at the end of the train. (The exchange was not this pleasant though.)

Now the end of this train seemingly was 200 meters away – at least. Ben was running to reach the conductor. I was in flip-flops and couldn’t run without them falling off. I got on my bike and rode down the platform. I hope that was OK.

The conductor took our bikes and put them in a freight car on the train. We took a seat and the conductor came by at which time we paid 5 CHF for the “reservation” which we did not have. The cost of a bike pass was 20 CHF so now I was in for 25 CHF to be able to take my bike on a train. I had paid 30 CHF for a companion pass to be with Ben.

We had to transfer, somewhere, I was just along for the ride. Ben said to disembark and we got off and then transferred to another train. This train to Airolo only required that bikes be hung on one of the two hooks in each car. The train came into the station and we looked for a car with room for our bikes. As the cars went by the bike hooks were all full. We went to the last car as did four other cyclists and neatly put six bikes in a space for two.

Once the train started rolling we felt safe. But Ben did mention if they saw the bikes they could put us off at the next stop, which was a couple stops short of our destination. Two conductors came by. I could not hear or at least understand what they were saying. Ben said they laughed at all the bikes and said it wasn’t the record – they once had 47. Or maybe we have 47 on this train.

Some of the riders on the train were road cyclists headed to see the Tour de Suisse, as we were. Some were enjoying a beautiful summer day to go mountain biking. But there were lots of cyclists on the train whether they be of the slick tire or knobby tire variety.

We exited at Airolo, which is in the Italian-speaking portion of Switzerland. I met a couple who saw the cookie decal on my bike. He asked me if that was a Phil Gaimon cookie. Who knew someone in Switzerland would know about the cookies? It turns out that the young man was from Switzerland but has ridden Mount Palomar and Mount Baldy in Southern California, as I have. His friend, or girlfriend, was from Russia.

Airolo, Switzerland. Young Swiss man with his Russian girlfriend.

We did not have water in our bottles and would make a critical mistake. Seemingly water is free (and good) everywhere in Switzerland. We found a fountain in town but it was turned off. We found a second fountain and it too was off. What was up with that? We began the climb with no water.

Turning onto Tremola Road we faced a stretch of cobblestones. They were beautiful in design but require, of course, more effort. I had read about this climb once and thought there was 1-2 km of stone. Boy was I wrong. It was cobbled for all 14 km (9 miles) of the climb.

I had gotten sick midweek in Luxembourg and it was hanging on me. I was sick. My legs may have been dead from all the work too. I had nothing. Perhaps the answer would be revealed later.

We may have been 10 km in when I spotted a bathtub in a pasture with a pipe over it and cold running water. I asked Ben if we could drink the water coming out of the pipe and he said sure. We filled out bottles and it was good. The cows agreed.

Near the summit is a four-kilometer (2.5 miles) stretch of 24 hairpin turns (or switchbacks). Some riders were riding in the gutter, a paved concrete section that was smoother than cobbles, but when I tried it I found I was too tired to hold a straight line. I was afraid I would hit the curb and go down. I moved back to the cobbles.

At the summit, we found a restaurant. Many people were here, not just cyclists, although plenty of them too. I had told Ben that when I reach the top I only wanted a Coke. Two Cokes, actually. But I saw some kids eating pasta with a meat sauce and it looked delicious. I ordered it and it was. I would have eaten a local bratwurst too except there was too long of a line.

Ben was on his phone checking train schedules and the progress of the last stage of the Tour (actually, it had not yet started so we were checking estimated times of arrival). These races publish an estimated time, a fastest expected time, and the slowest expected time.

We decided we would follow the route and ride to Hospental where the course turned left, sharply. From there we could go right (or straight) to catch our train without being on course. But it would be tight to make the train depending on how fast the Tour de Suisse was riding.

I could not miss the train. My suitcase was in my bike bag. I was sick. I wanted to be on the first flight to the U.S. tomorrow. If I missed it I might be able to go to the hotel with my bike and the clothes on my back. Tomorrow I would have to go back to the main station and retrieve my stuff then get back to the airport, where I was staying, in time for my flight. The thought of managing this was blowing my mind.

We finished eating and on the initial descent, I had hit 75 kpm (47 mph). Had I been riding and displaying miles I would have hit 50 mph. Or tried. But my mind and computer display were in kilometers. In Hospental we had found our position on the corner and waited for the Tour de Suisse to come by. After an hour, it did, with xenical 120 mg buy online australia prednisone spanish sample essay computer addiction see steroid persuasive essay conclusion of research methodology cialis 200 coupon levitra wie lange vorher einnehmen methode pour une dissertation follow celebrex muscle relaxant luther standing bear nature essay enter site click application essay title watch tadalafil levitra go here click argumentative essay on foreign aid ielts task 1 sample essay spm essay about my ideal home celebrex celecoxib arizona click essay about your hero see url Hugh Carthy (EF-Education First) with solo breakaway and a 2:00 lead which he would hold to the end.

It was here that my bike was in the wrong gear to start, having descended in a 50:11. I decided to change gears by hand cranking the bike which is when I saw it. When I spun the wheel it went a few revolutions then stopped. The brake pad had been rubbing on the wheel. No wonder it was so hard climbing. All the jostling of bikes probably caused it but I should have checked it in Airolo.

As soon as part of the peloton had come through, we planned our escape. Ben said it would be 32 km and we had one hour. We would have to average 20 mph and would have no time for stops. That would normally be a very tough ask but we also knew the road went downhill.

However, we did not plan for a headwind – a vicious headwind. Ben did better on the climb, much better, than me but was having a problem with the wind. I took the lead most of the way and let him sit in my draft.

We went through Andermatt, a beautiful mountain town. And then for the next 20 km, the scenery just would not stop. Unfortunately, neither could I. We didn’t have time.

We saw white water rivers with the glacier turquoise water blasting down through small canyons under stone arch bridges. The scenery was breathtaking. But we knew not to stop, and besides, by the time we saw the perfect place we were already 200 meters past it and would have to turn around.

We kept the speed up and Ben made one final check – seven km to go (4.2 miles). And we had 20 minutes. I knew an easy day I could do those in 16 minutes. Of course, we would have to get to the station and find the right track. I rattled off each K-to-go and we pulled in with 10 minutes to spare.

Old train in Wassen

Ben was worried about this train as it might be full of cyclists from earlier stops. If we missed it we would miss getting my luggage from the train station. It was a train where no reservation was needed or apparently accepted. Just first-come, first-served. Look for empty bike hooks, and we guessed right for the car.

Ben and Barry at the end of a wonderful day

What a day. It was my most beautiful day on a bike. I’ve never seen anything like that from Andermatt to Wassen. And going up, wasn’t as scenic but it was epic – a 14 km climb on cobblestones. Wow!

EPILOGUE – June 25, 2019. I was at the doctor’s office and had a very bad bronchial infection. She examined me and asked if I was exhausted. I pulled out my phone and showed her Tremola Road.

“Well, two days ago I biked up this 9-mile cobblestone road in Switzerland. Then I went 24 hours without sleep.”

She replied, “I take that as a yes.”

Of the great climbs I have done, many or all call for a do-ever. But none more than this one. I was sick and weak the day I climbed this and want to go back healthy. It’s more than Strava times. The scenery from Hospental to Andermatt is beyond description. I want to ride it without worrying about a train to catch.

A Trip Across the Swiss Alps – A Review


Sometime in the winter when I knew that Ride the Rockies would not work out for this year I decided to ride across Switzerland. across the Alps.


I did not want to “bikepack,” which is to carry all my clothes with me on my bike. I found and had been following the tours at They looked (and look) great but was a little more time and money than I wanted to spend.

From Thun to Sörenberg

I asked my friend, Ben Z., if he knew how I could do this self-supported and he found Eurotrek, a company based in Zürich. He sent me their contact information.

Barry Sherry with Ben

Both companies offered a self-guided tour over the Alps via Panoramic bicycle Route 4. The cost differences were significant. BikeSwitzerland offered additional days and a little extra riding from Geneva to the start in Aigle. Plus a return to Geneva.

Gondola from Sörenberg to the top of the mountain

Cost was a factor but so were logistics. BikeSwitzerland started in Geneva whereas Eurotrek started near Zürich. My base of operations would be in Zürich.

Both companies offered rental bikes. I never considered renting instead I flew with my own bike. I do not know what Eurotrek charged. But BikeSwitzerland offered my Trek Domane with Di2 shifting for 600 CHF.

Glaubenbielen Pass to Sörenberg

I booked my trip with EuroTrek. They made all hotel arrangements and transported my luggage daily from one hotel to the next, otherwise it was self-supported.

Hotel Huber in Lichensteig

I flew to Zürich. From Washington, D.C., American Airlines charged me $200 for taking the bike. Returning, the same airline charged me 84 CHF ($87.50). I have no idea why the price difference. I liked the price coming back.

American Airlines 767 from ZRH to JFK

Day 1 was from St. Margrethen to Wattwill (Lichtensteig). The course was lumpy, even mountainous. Actually it had the most climbing of the seven days although it lacked an iconic mountain pass. I did not pre-load my map to GPS and could not always follow the Rte 4 signs. I also developed saddle sores (which I never get) and feared the worse.

Umäsch, Switzerland

Day 2 was from Wattwill (Lichtensteig) to Linthal. This was the shortest day. It started with a climb (once I could find it) and ended with 30 km of flat farm roads or trails. It was the perfect remedy for saddle sores.

On the (farm) road to Linthal – Näfels, Switzerland

Day 3 was from Linthal to Beckenreid via a ferry at Gersau. It was the best day of the trip. It featured a hard climb out of the box over Klausenpass. But the rest of the day was super easy. A great descent of Klausenpass followed by the nice trail along a lake I seen before and then a ferry crossing of Lake Lucerne.

Brunen, Switzerland

Day 4 was also nice but had the opposite profile of Day 3. This one had the lake riding first and ended with a climb up the Glaubenielen Pass down into Sörenberg.

Stansstad, Switzerland

Day 5 was from Sörenberg to Thun. I began the day by riding back up the mountain to the Sörenberg tram to the mountain overlooking Interlaken. Then, given a choice of adding an extra 12 km to Thun, I took the long way. I beat my luggage arriving at the hotel then went swimming in the River Aare.

Thun, Switzerland

Day 6 was Thun to Gruyères. It felt more like a slog. I got lost in Fribourg. It was hot. Beautiful scenery but nothing breathtaking like Day 3.

Marsens, Switzerland

Day 7 was Gruyères to Montreux. Somewhere I must have missed a Route 4 turn and just took the main road over the mountain to Aigle. That was fine.

Aigle, Switzerland

And that was it. After I returned home I found out that Eurotrek had GPX files I could have downloaded to my bike computer but I did not know to ask.

Only after the trip did I realize that perhaps a solo trip across the Alps was a bit risky. I mitigated some of the risks by carrying a hand pump with a gauge and an extra tube (two, total). But a broken spoke or chain or worse, an accident, would have done me in.

As I updated my trip on Facebook I started adding Cycling Tips for Switzerland. The “numbers” were random, of course but here they are:

Tip 38 for cycling in Switzerland

(This would end in Zürich on my last day when a woman pulled an impromptu U-turn in front of me causing me to take evasive action. I did not use a finger.)

Tip #19 for cycling in Switzerland
Tip #K9 for cycling in Switzerland
Tip 29 for cycling in Switzerland
Tip #1 for cycling in Switzerland. So important that it is a rule.
Public fountain – Schwarzenburg, Switzerland
Tip #23 for cycling in Switzerland

There’s not much I would do differently. I was glad to have my own bike and starting two days after I arrived was perfect although I could have got my bike ready in one day. Well, there is one thing. I would not start on a Thursday or Friday because those days mean that Day 3, Klausenpass would be on a weekend day and I now know that is a popular “driving road” for sports cars and motorcycles.

It was a great trip which I highly recommend. And see Tip #29.

Goodbye Switzerland


I started the morning in Nurmijärvi, Finland, not far from Helsinki.  I took a flight from Helsinki to Riga, Latvia, connecting to Zürich.

Riga, Latvia

I have been watching the weather in Bormio, Italy, with my decision to be either to travel to Italy or go home early. My return flight is planned for July 3.

After I arrived I checked the weather forecast for Bormio which showed 100% chance of rain for the next three days. It was almost that same percent chance I would go home instead.

The forecast for Zürich was about the same although I didn’t have to worry about snow on the mountain. But having arrived it was a beautiful afternoon.

If I was going home, it would be on Thursday. With rain forecast for tomorrow, I will be tearing down my bike. Today will be my last time to ride in Switzerland.

City riding is not ideal but the ride around Lake Zürich is nice. But I didn’t want to circumvent the entire lake.

I loved the ferry that crosses over the lake. The price is right (CHF 3) and it is a lovely ride.

Program sold at Kiosk at the ferry

I simply went for a ride around the lake. It was beautiful.

The main road was blocked headed back to Zürich. Looked like a rich boat owner had an accident and a crane stretched across one lane of the road to lift it out of the water.

I stopped at the river and took a couple more photos. A commuter passed me and I followed her wheel which took me under the highway to the street I needed to return to Wollishofen.

Zürich – I will miss you. Except for that Barney Fife cop.


Three Country Ride Part Deux


Three years ago Ben Z. and I went for a three-country ride. I asked him to come up with one again. He did.

Train station, Laufen, Switzerland

We took a train to Laufen for the start. My train ticket was 13 CHF. My bike ticket was 20 CHF. For a country that is cycle-centric, or maybe it isn’t, I think their train bike passes cost at least twice what they should be.

Welcome to France. I think. I think I can also read this sign. Speed limits in towns is 50 kph (31 mph); in the country it’s 90 kph (56 mph), and on super highways it’s 130 kph (81mph).

Laufen is near the French border of the Alsace-Lorraine region. We rode about 15 km before coming to a French sign. Ben pointed out another sign which noted that Swiss soldiers were not allowed to be on this road in uniform.

Ferrett, France

The road turned up and Ben rode ahead. We quickly established that on this day I would be first down the mountains and he would be first up. We went through some French villages although we were in the outskirts of a much bigger town, St. Louis, when I suggested we stop at a bakery.

Ferrett, France

We both got a chocolate-strawberry croissant then rode to a shade location to eat. We ended up next to a school where students were practicing a dance routine. Never quite figured out what kind of school that was.

Bakery in St. Louis, France

We found our way to the Three Country Bridge that connects France and Germany but looks at Switzerland. Close enough.


Ben led us through Basel, looking for a road back to the town and the climb we did three years ago. We made some sketchy moves in traffic, i.e., probably not riding where we should have.

Three-Country Ridge

But we got through Basel and back into Germany until crossing back over at a dam on the River Rhine.

Hello Germany

It was hot, with temperatures in the low 90s. I carried two bottles and was going through those fast while Ben had just one.

Three Country Bridge that connects France and Germany

We looked for water – easier in Switzerland than France or Germany. I didn’t feel I was getting enough and I know Ben couldn’t have been.

It wasn’t all pavement today

We began the last climb which would take us over the “hill” to Sissach. It was quite a formidable climb. Ben took off and 2-3 times pulled over until I dragged my butt up to him. I was in a granny gear and wasn’t going to work any harder. Or couldn’t work any harder.

Kaiseraugst, Switzerland

But at the top Ben was lightheaded. His wife had biked up from Sissach (quite impressive actually) and he had planned lunch at a restaurant up the hill from the summit. A second summit.

Rheinfelden, Switzerland

Ben said he was so light-headed couldn’t control his bike. He rested and gathered himself and then we descended, with me being the fastest. Weight wins.


On the descent, I hit 75 kph which is 47.5 mph. Had I known I would have pushed it to 50 mph. But it was my fastest speed of the time I was in Switzerland.

Switzerland. France. Germany. It was a most excellent trip. Thanks Ben!

Me. Ben. The last day I wore those ripped shorts.

My Last Day in the Swiss Alps


This was a bittersweet day. It would be a day of accomplishment but a little sadness as I knew my trip across Switzerland through the Alps would be ending. Actually, I was not sad at all.

Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland

I had a nice breakfast at the Hotel Gruyères. It was a very pleasant morning but going to be hot again.

Cheese – Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland

I sat out on the patio enjoying the cool morning weather. I had no complaints about the weather. No rain the entire trip. And really never needed arm warmers. Perfect weather.

Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland

The first few kilometers would be downhill as I left the hotel and then try, for the last time, to find Cycling Route 4. It started OK as I was soon on farm roads.

Train station in Gruyères

In Grand Villard I missed a turn at a traffic circle but soon corrected it as I could see my Garmin showed I was “off course.”

Grandvillard – A Farm Village

The back road took me off the main road for a while. A mostly single lane, very lightly traveled road, I even stopped to watch a fox.

Grandvillard, Switzerland

Eventually the roads would converge and I would be on the main highway.

This road kicked up to 18% but only for a short stretch. Haut-Intyamon, Switzerland

I was tired. Physically, I didn’t feel tired but perhaps skipping dinner last night or just seven days in the Alps was wearing on my decision making.

Montbovon, Switzerland

I came to a construction area and did not see a turn. Garmin soon warned me I was off course. I went back and surveyed the area. Yes, I missed the turn to Route 9. There was no way through but I hoped the main road would be parallel where I should be.

Rossinière, Switzerland

It would not occur to me until the end of my ride that I wasn’t to follow Route 9. All week I have been on Route 4 and now I confused them. I still don’t know where I should have gone.

Rossinière, Switzerland

I was comfortable following Garmin but if there was a real Route 4 I wanted to be on it. But I stayed on the main road.

Château-d’Oex, Switzerland

I came to what I knew would be my climb over my last mountain. Then I saw a sign for Route 9 to the left. Down in a valley. I followed it for 300 meters and just knew it didn’t feel right. At the point I said “screw following the sign” not even aware it was the wrong sign. The mind was tired.

Château-d’Oex, Switzerland

I thought I was on the right road but who knows. But I began the climb confident I would get to Montreux.

Château-d’Oex, Switzerland

The views were great and I had no regrets. I was passed by perhaps 30 sports cars, many of those vintage cars.

Château-d’Oex, Switzerland

At the top was a ski area. I didn’t spend much time here but instead would begin my descent to Aigle.

Château-d’Oex, Switzerland

It was a great ride down. With hairpin turns, I never could really let the bike roll but I wasn’t here for speed. (Things losers say)

Ormont-Dessus, Switzerland

I came to one snow shed and plenty of picturesque vantage points. I enjoyed the descent constantly scanning taking in the views.

Snow shed

Reaching the bottom I could see Aigle and the figurative end of my journey.

Aigle, Switzerland

I also knew I was in France. Well, not really but very close. I had thought about riding an extra 10-15 km to “end” in France (and come back) but decided I needed to keep going to my real destination in Montreux. I had a train to catch.

One of three “bikes” in Aigle I found. The other two were pink and yellow.

Beautiful vineyards on the hillside dotted the landscape. Aigle is the home of the UCI, Union of International Cyclists or Union Cycliste Internationale in French.

Those cars came down Bike Route 4

As I reached the flat section of the town I saw a sign for Route 4. Then it dawned on me I had been looking for the wrong signs. I felt fresh but I must have been tired to confuse the route signs.

The last Route 4 sign I would see. I still don’t know where the official terminus is. – Aigle, Switzerland

I saw the cars that had passed me coming off a mountain road. Route 4. The one I was supposed to be on. Oh well. I have no regrets about the route I took but wonder what I missed. And if I should go back someday.

This round portion of UCI is a velodrome – Aigle, Switzerland

I said goodbye to Route 4 and was going to head to Montreux. But I saw a sign for UCI and decided to see what it was all about. Well, it was about a building. A velodrome. I did not leave a pee sample. (But it would have been clean.)

Vineyards in Aigle, Switzerland

Since there was no longer a bike route, (it starts/ends in Aigle) I had mapped my route to Montreux. But I briefly lost my way. I started to get on Super Highway A9. Oops. I walked the bike back down the entrance ramp when I saw I could not jump the fence with my bike to an alternate road.

Veytaux, Switzerland

In Montreux I had planned to eat. Maybe to celebrate. Never really thought about dipping a wheel into Lake Geneva or lifting my bike but never had a chance. I followed a street into town, I knew I was getting near the train station and the street went under the tracks. When I emerged I was in a shopping area and saw an escalator up to the train station. I grabbed my bike, went up to ticketing, and just like that, it was over.

Which way to the UCI? – Aigle, Switzerland

Actually, it wasn’t over just like that. As I arrived ticketing I asked for my luggage and the woman didn’t know what I was talking about. But rather than create angst, I turned and there was a young man with my bag. I beat him. I pulled out money to tip him but he refused.

Seven Days. Switzerland. Over.

Thun to Gruyères


I knew it would be a long day and I hit the road before 8:00 a.m. for the ride out of Thun. It projected to be a lumpy ride and it certainly was. At 103 km, it was the longest day, and at 1,736 m, it would be the second most climbing.

Hotel AM Schloss

As I got ready to go outside the hotel there was a group of Chinese tourists. One by one they told their friends to come over and lift my bike. Then gave me a thumbs up.

Längerbühl, Switzerland

My plan was to follow the Bike Rte 4 signs first and the GPS I had mapped out second. And that mostly worked. Each night I looked online at Bike Rte 4 then tried to duplicate that on and then download that to my Garmin bike computer. I didn’t always get it correct.

One of the many covered bridges on today’s ride

The first 5-6 km in Thun were pancake flat. Then, boom!, the road turned up. First I was on a small highway then Route 4 turned to a paved farm road. And it kicked up. Short but up to 18%.

At a house in the country but still near Thun

This was mostly an uneventful day. Halfway through I had a great descent out of one village – the kind you know the road is going to bottom out and kick up again. It was a great descent and beautiful forest as well.

Bike Route 4

It did. I went over a river just past an out of commission covered bridge, and entered the canton of Fribourg.

More covered bridges

Fribourg city was an adventure. I followed the signs for a while but at the top of a bridge/retaining road was a traffic circle. The way back on Rte 4 was marked with an arrow but the way forward was not. I had to choose. I chose wrongly. I guess I made a turn at the traffic circle and, in the absence of a sign, should have gone straight.

Many bridges today

Sometimes when I choose wrong, if my GPS file is showing I am parallel to where it thinks I should be going, I just keep going hoping they will come back together. It was clear I was blazing a new trail in the wrong direction.


I stopped at a bike shop for directions. They weren’t perfect but they got me onto the trail where eventually I picked up a sign again. In all I probably spent 30 additional minutes in Fribourg trying to pick up the scent. Maybe even longer.

MyWay Bikes

The day was mostly full of rollers. And lots (five) of covered bridges.

MyWay Bikes – These guys got me back on track

It was pretty but did not come close to matching the scenery on Day 3 going up Klausenpass to Beckenreid. And there was this one kicker near Gruyères that went up over 20% but was no more than 75 meters.

Bike Rte 4

In Gruyères I found a bakery. I got a roll and some salami and a big bottle of grapefruit soda. Then I climbed the hill to the castle. Or chalet. I didn’t know it at that time but that would be my dinner.

Lake of Gruyères

Although the man who dropped my luggage in Thun asked if it could be ready at 8:30 a.m. (instead of 9:00), I still beat my luggage to the hotel. I wasn’t going anywhere. In fact, I just took a hot shower then sat naked on my bed until my clothes arrived.

Narrow Bridge – Morlon, Switzerland

In the early evening I decided to walk down into town. Clothed. By down I mean down. Two mountain bikers were coming up that old cobbled walkway. Chapeau!

The path down into town

Although there was a restaurant in town and a few at the chateau by where I was staying, I didn’t feel like paying the high prices of dining out. The bakery closed just 15 minutes earlier. So I decided I was done eating for the day and would wait for breakfast.

Castle in Gruyères

Dining out in Switzerland is generally expensive. On my third and fourth nights I had nice dinners but at a cost of 35-40 CHF ($36-$42) each. For one.

Bakery/store in Gruyères

But last night’s meal at McDonalds (8,90 CHF) in Thun and skipping dinner tonight would be kind on the budget.

Hotel de Gruyères. Notice the jerk who hung cycling shorts in the bedroom window.

This was the only place I watched TV. Three soccer matches. Confederations Cup between Mexico and New Zealand. A friendly (I think) between Italy and Croatia and Denmark vs. Germany. Not sure those last two games were live. They may have been old but they were new to me.

Laundry night at the hotel

A good night’s sleep and I will be ready to roll in the morning.

Wengerliweg – A street/road in Mamihaus, Switzerland

Söreneberg to Thun – the Long Way


Headed to Thun today.

Hotel Rischli, Söreneberg

The stay last night was at the Hotel Rischli. I really enjoyed it. The desk clerk, Yvonne, was very nice. She had presented me with a complimentary transportation card that I could use for the aerial tram. But I did not use it yesterday.

Hotel Rischli, Söreneberg

But first – goats. Just outside the dining patio was an enclosure of the cutest goats. They also had an enclosure of rabbits too. It made the stay more enjoyable.

Hotel Rischli, Söreneberg

Yesterday I had gone by the gondola on my descent to the hotel. When Yvonne offered the transportation card I did not feel like pedaling the 4.5 km back up the mountain. But with a great night’s sleep, I looked at it differently, one from a fresh mind. And body.


The ride over to Thul was supposed to be a short one and why should I be in a hurry. I decided I would bike back up to the gondola. Slow down. Enjoy the day.


I had no clue where I was in Switzerland in relationship to other landmarks but in looking at the advertisements of the region I saw they also advertised a cog railway. I realized that I took that train with [Friend] three years ago and it dawned on me that at the summit we saw a gondola come up the mountain.

A nice way to the top

I rode to the gondola, presented my comp pass, and saved 38 CHF (which was about $40). The staff at the gondola put my bike in the engine room while I rode up to the summit.

Barry in Switzerland. Overlooking Lake Brienz

It was cool being back there. This time I could look down and see the cog railway engine sputtering away bringing back pleasant memories of this trip three years earlier.

The cog railroad train on the mounatin, Lake Brienz in the background

On the ride back down on the gondola, the “conductor” made sure to point out where there were mountain goats. He asked me if we have them in the U.S. and I told him Colorado (of course other states do too).


It was a quick descent back to Söreneberg and a stop at the hotel. My luggage hadn’t been picked up so I decided I would carry an extra set of clothes just in case I got to Thun before my luggage. I couldn’t imagine I would with the trip being so short and now it was after 11:00 a.m. and I hadn’t left Söreneberg.

The Alpine Slide

But first, there was time for a ride on their Alpine slide. This one was cool because the ski lift dragged the rider and sled to the top on an enclosed course. The ones I have been on all used a ski lift to carry the passenger and sleds to the top of the mountain for the slide down. But this was a fully-enclosed course in which the rider rode up the mountain (towed by a cable) before sliding back down.

The River Aare in Thun is split by an island. The swimming channel was clearly slower than the other side. But one only needed to jump in and float and be carried away. Pretty fun!

Waldemme, Switzerland

Dinner tonight was at McDonalds – 8,90 instead of 35 or 40 CHF for a real meal. My only issue was I went for WiFi and a little A/C. But it seems WiFi is available only if you have a code that will be texted to you – if you have WiFi to receive the text. Sigh.

Marbach, Switzerland

The hotel was AM Schloss. It had no A/C and only a small window over a busy street. It was pretty miserable sleeping.

Covered Bridges and another Mountain


The day started with breakfast at the Seerausch Hotel in Beckenreid. It was the first hotel where they had a full buffet including eggs. So good but the view of Lake Luzerne was better.

Breakfast overlooking the beautiful lake

The Panoramic Alpine Route 4 would quickly take a lakefront road. There standing in the grass close to the lake was a topless woman talking to another woman. She was probably getting ready to catch some rays. I wanted to stop there for a photo of the lake but that would have been creepy in any language. So I went about 500 meters farther.

Lake Luzerne

The water of the lake is clear. The morning was perfect, about 68° (20° C).

Lake Luzerne

I would follow the Blue Route 4 signs where I could find them and rely on my Garmin as a backup. And I would need them.

Engelberger, Swizterland

A real surprise was coming to a covered bridge. I couldn’t tell when it was built…

Engelberger, Switzerland

…but it sure had sweet decking (floor).

Buochs Airport, Switzerland

The first direction decision came at a culvert. There was a sign and I thought I followed it correctly but it took me in this 100-meter loop under the road I was just on.

Buochs Airport, Switzerland

I didn’t mind it one bit because it gave me a unique view of the mountains.

Stansstad, Switzerland

I got off course a bit in the little town of Stansstad. I did a two-block loop, looked closer at the signs, compared to Garmin, corrected it then kept going.

This was 10 meters from the turn for Route 4 at Lake Luzerne but sure is pretty (Hergiswil, Switzerland)

I crossed a bridge then followed Rte 4 on a lake road to Alpnachstad.

Stansstad, Switzerland

I followed the road next to the lake. There was a “sidewalk” which was really a boardwalk.

The Pilatus-Bahn cog railway

I was expecting about a 30 km (19 mile) easy cruising ride this morning and that is what I got. Cobbles. But for a short ride.

Saren, Switzerland

The town of Saren is beautiful. In the center was freshwater, which I would need. And the fad of 2017, Fidget Spinners, is global.

Wilen (Sarnen), Switzerland

On my way out I entered a forested area then crossed what appeared to be a stream project. Had I looked to the right, and maybe I did, I would have seen what I was in store for.

Along the lake, I was back on a highway. Some roads have bike lanes which is really one meter to the right. The lines presumably make the drivers aware that we are there.

Giswil, Switzerland

At Giswil I came to a second covered bridge. It’s not quite Bedford Co., Pa., but I was a happy camper. Or rider. I love my covered bridges.

Giswil, Switzerland

Leaving Giswil, I uncharacteristically made a good biking decision. I stopped for a photo then jumped in behind two riders who looked like they were riding the Alpine route.

Giswil. Route 9 goes left and up; Route 4 continues straight. I made the wrong turn.

Ahead I could see a road climbing, steeply, to the left. I knew I had a left turn coming up. They turned and the one guy turned back. I passed him and started climbing. It was steep.

Giswil, Switzerland

I checked Garmin and it said I was “Off Course.” Well, sometimes one can be 10 meters off and it says I’m off so I was going to ignore it. I started climbing higher and could see I was going away from the route I mapped.

Giswil, Switzerland

The two men had stopped already and I asked (MAJOR LANGUAGE BARRIER – not sure they were German-speaking) if this was Route 4 (I held up four fingers). They said it was.

Giswil, Switzerland – Be careful reading the signs

I thought back to the turn. There was a sign but I didn’t look. The thought of going back down those steep 400 meters to check the sign then climb it again disturbed me but not more than taking the wrong route. I grabbed a quick photo and went back down.

Bike Route 4

I was glad I checked. I was right. Rte 4 continued straight for another 400 meters before turning onto Panorama Strasse.

Hey, that looks like my RAV4

This road was mostly a one-lane road. Two cars could not pass. But there were some sections every 400-500 meters or so where a car could pull over to let one pass in the opposite direction.

Giswil, Switzerland

I looked up and figured I would pass by every house on the mountain. I was right.

Giswil, Switzerland

There was room for a car and a bike but only inches between a bus (city) and this bike. Thank you bus.

Giswil, Switzerland

I was sweating profusely. On the lower slopes were simply farms and no trees. I was exposed to the blazing sun.

Giswil, Switzerland

The climb was 11.8 kilometers (7.3 miles). Much of the way the grind was 8-9%.

Looking back to the washed-out stream I had crossed – Giswil, Switzerland

In my mind, I had calculated the climb to be 11 kilometers but as I watched Garmin I had a math error. I was off by one kilometer. It’s tough when you think you’re at the summit but you’re not.

Giswil, Switzerland

Somewhere, and I have no idea where the open section gave way to woods. It was a welcome relief from the sun.

Giswil, Switzerland

In the wooded section, the Garmin showed higher gradients. It was registering 11-12% and even up to 18% (which I know it wasn’t – my body knows 18%). It wasn’t that steep. Long, yes. Steep, no.

Actually a 7-8% upgrade here – Giswil, Switzerland

Unlike Klausen Pass yesterday, where I was passed by 203 motorbikes, today I would be passed by 13 and only one “was in a hurry.”

Giswil, Switzerland

I went long stretches not hearing anything but birds of the forest and the occasional cowbell.

Giswil, Switzerland. So glad to find this water.

The higher I went the more cows I heard. I crossed a cattle guard and was in an open graze cattle area.

On this corner was an air sock and this guy sitting with his toy. He showed no interest in interacting with me even as I stopped and took an obvious photo. Giswil, Switzerland

I went through those two bottles and saw a water fountain. I stopped and filled up. Very cold water. They would last me another 2-3 kilometers.

Giswil, Switzerland

I came upon perhaps 40 school kids on a hike. For a while they seemed to be walking at the same pace I was climbing. But I soon passed them. A couple of kids tried to run alongside me but they didn’t last long although I thought they may beat me to the summit. They didn’t.

Giswil, Switzerland

What I thought was the summit was still 1200 meters from the top. A man sat there with his toy airplane. There was a windsock attached to a pole and he brought along his own windsock. I thought about asking him to take a photo of me climbing but he had no interest in even making eye contact.

Giswil, Switzerland

The views on the descent weren’t nearly as breathtaking as those on the ascent. Or maybe I simply had more time to take them in on the climb.

The gondola at Sörenberg

Right before Sörenberg I stopped at a cable tram. Interesting, but I didn’t know where it went. Although I would find out later.

Sörenberg, Switzerland

Going through Sörenberg I saw some young ladies in front of a school for Hospitality Management.

Sörenberg, Switzerland

I stopped and asked if they spoke English (the sign was in English). They all did. Four young women from Vietnam. I also asked if I should go to Vietnam for bike riding and they laughed and said “Oh no.” I had read that Vietnam is a great destination for cycling this I found their response interesting.

Directions to Hotel Rischli , Sörenberg, Switzerland

I checked into the Hotel Rischli and the desk clerk offered me a discount card for the tram. As she was showing me the brochure it also included a cog railway. Then I realized this approach was the backside of the mountain that I had traveled three years ago. Had I spent my money to see the views from “up there” I certainly would have been surprised. And maybe pissed to learn I could have ridden for free.

Dinner at Hotel Rischli, Sörenberg, Switzerland

Dinner was out on the patio. I wanted to order Rösti although at the time I did not know the name. I settled for a Pork Cordon Bleu dish which is what I had yesterday in Beckenreid. It was delicious but at 35 CHF a bit pricey for this traveler.

Cyclist refilling bottle in Sarnen

What a Gorgeous Lake – and Mountain Too


I am blown away at the view of Lake Lucerne and it’s hard to remember what an awesome day in the saddle it was. Or out of the saddle.

The start of the climb in Linthal

I began my day in Linthal. It was just 55° (13° C) at 8:00 a.m. I put on arm warmers which would last all of about half a kilometer. I was prepared for how tough a climb last night by meeting the couple from Zürich. I saw them this morning at breakfast too. “Tough,” he said.

The cobbles would last about 150 meters through the first switchback. Linthal, Switzerland

I would be climbing the Klausen Pass. I studied the route map and knew what exactly to expect. Just not cobblestones.

Snow shed

I would normally ride without stopping but I figure this will be the only time I am ever here. So I said I would stop for photos. The first was the snow shed and I also turned on my lights.

Gorgeous snow sheds or tunnels – Linthal, Switzerland

A house with a view – Linthal, Switzerland

The snow sheds had windows to the outside world and breathtaking views. However, I did not capture enough. As I climbed higher I sometimes thought there would be better vistas only to find the road went straight into the forest and I was no longer able to see the valley below.

Cows. Lots of cows. – Urnerboden, Switzerland

The climb up to the pass was 23 km. At 10 km it was a plateau (mostly), sort of like Big Meadows in Skyline Drive in Virginia. To the right, I could hear the symphony of cowbells playing in the distance. I wondered if they needed a director.

The white building to the right, ahead, is the Wilhelm Tell Hotel – Urnerboden, Switzerland

In the plateau area, a false flat mostly for about five kilometers, are free-range cattle.

Just another gorgeous view – Urnerboden, Switzerland

I would go through a small village of Urnerboden. To the right was the Hotel Wilhelm Tell. I didn’t think much of it at the time but this was said to be the birthplace of Swiss Hero William Tell. (The area, not the actual hotel.)

Urnerboden, Switzerland
The plateau area – Urnerboden, Switzerland
Bees, lots of bees. – Urnerboden, Switzerland
Looking down the road I climbed and three more motorcycles ready to pass me – Urnerboden, Switzerland

After the second section, the road kicked up again to the summit, this time about eight kilometers.

Switchbacks in the final section – Urnerboden, Switzerland

The solitude of the climb was interrupted by motorcycles passing me, one within inches. In addition were lots of sports cars, Porsche, Jaguars, even saw four Deloreans. Unfortunately, many drivers treated this road as their racecourse.

Looking back at the switchback section – Urnerboden, Switzerland

On the climb I passed two cyclists, a man and a woman, and got passed by three, two men and a woman. And 203 motorcycles.

Barry at Klausen Pass

I would characterize the climb as hard but not the hardest. Four climbs: Mount Washington; Hurricane Mountain Road (NH); San Pellegrino (Italy); and maybe Henrietta Road (PA), all brought me to my knees making me think I should quit. This ride never did it. It was just a slog, a 2.5-hour slog to be sure, but I knew I would make it.

At the top – Unterschächen, Switzerland

With the hard part over and drenched in sweat, it was time for the easy part of the day. The descent.

On Klausen Pass – Unterschächen, Switzerland

I thought I might bomb the descent but instead took it easy. The words of Wayne Stetina resonated with me when he told me four years ago that he never bombs a descent he hadn’t seen before. I decided I would take it easy.

Descent off Klausen Pass – Unterschächen, Switzerland

I stopped frequently for the views. In addition, the road was too beat up and too windy to let the bike roll.

It’s pretty far down there – Unterschächen, Switzerland
I held the camera and said “Cheese,” a universal word. – Unterschächen, Switzerland
Altdorf, Switzerland

I descended into Altdorf, a beautiful town. And then I saw it. Lake Luzerne.

Lake Luzerne – Flüelen, Switzerland

Leaving town I found the bike path to avoid riding with the cars in the tunnels, of which there were five or six.

Lake Luzerne – Flüelen, Switzerland

The bike lanes in Altdorf were well marked. Once I was in a dedicated lane sometimes it was bike-only and sometimes it was for bikes and pedestrians.

Lake Luxerne – Flüelen, Switzerland

In the tunnels, often the bike lane would go in with the cars and the pedestrian path would be on the outside of the tunnel, high above the lake. Sometimes the bike lane would be outside as well. Simply gorgeous.

Lake Luzerne

The one thing to watch out for is bike paths could become sidewalks without notice. And there are penalties (fines) for riding on the sidewalks.

Klewenalp, Beckenreid, Switzerland

As the road got closer to Brunnen it was harder to determine where the bike lane was. But I managed to find my way, at times following two locals (I presume they were local).

Lake Luzerne – Sisikon, Switzerland
Lake Luzerne – Brunnen, Switzerland
Brunnen, Switzerland
The signs in Brunnen, Switzerland
FCB – Brunnen, Switzerland

I came to a small stadium for FCB (Footballclub Brunnen). Either it was too late in the match to collect admission or the game was free but it was free for me. I wanted to see the referees of which there was one. Two thoughts: I was surprised they were using just one referee and my refs in Woodbridge are better.

Ferry at Gersau, Switzerland

The rest of the ride was lakeside to the ferry at Gersau. What a beautiful road.

Ferry at Gersau, Switzerland

Onboard I saw a cyclist. Everything about her could have been American. She was on a Cervélo bike (which is Canadian and more likely in the U.S. than Europe), wore a Specialized kit (based in California), rode Speedplay cleats and had a Garmin 500 GPS. But she was a local who ride halfway around the lake (60 km) then took the ferry back.

Barry on Lake Luzerne

Disembarking at Beckenreid, I saw the hotel and rode right past it, looking for the Klewenalp. This where Ashley and I went with Ben Z. seven years ago.

Ferry from Gersau to Beckenreid – It was so enjoyable riding along the lake in Beckenreid.
Lake Luzerne

I found it, then bought some ice cream and watched the paddle steamer. We rode that boat in 2010.

View from my hotel room – Beckenreid, Switzerland

Only then did I check into the hotel. I was told when my luggage was dropped off the guy wondered if I beat him. He said I always do. I didn’t know it was a race. But actually I arrived an hour earlier and had spent the time riding around. Tomorrow he doesn’t stand a chance.

A room with a view! – Beckenreid, Switzerland

The hotel was Hotel Seerausch. Simply gorgeous.

Beckenreid, Switzerland

It was a warm (hot) day. The hotel had their own private beach access to the lake. I went down and dove in. It. Was. Cold! I forgot I was swimming in glacier water. I did not stay in the water more than 10 minutes.

Dinner at the hotel

In addition to first class accommodations, the staff here was the best I found in Switzerland. There’s not too many places I would say I must return to but I would love to return here.

Beautiful Bike Paths


Breakfast this morning was at Hotel Cafe Huber in Lichtensteig. As I finished the owner came went to the bakery and gave me some bread to take with me. That was very nice.

Breakfast at Cafe Hotel Huber. Orange juice and sparking water would be added.

There would be two issues to deal with today. I never get saddle sores but developed those yesterday. Although better, they would stay with me today. And second, those signs…


Or more accurately, lack of signs. On a cool morning, I rode downhill to Wattwil. That was my reward for riding uphill to Lichtensteig yesterday.

A view from Wattwil

When I came to the town I turned on the main street to follow Bike Route 4. I also had uploaded the route to Garmin. I had gone no farther than one kilometer when Garmin told me I was off course.

Bike Route 4 – to Zürich? (Wattwil, Switzerland)

I turned around and went back into town. I went another way when I saw the blue Route 4 sign. I lost that trail too. I turned around.

The start of the day’s climb. It’s steeper than it looks. Wattwil, Switzerland

I decided to follow my Garmin no matter what. Leaving town I turned on a road that was not marked with a sign. About one kilometer later, I had to turn and there was the sign. I was on the right route after all.

A cyclist farther up the hill. I would catch him. Wattwil, Switzerland

Two or three or 10 times during today’s ride I chose to follow Garmin where there was no sign. Eventually, I would be proven right. In contrast to yesterday, I did not ask anyone for directions today.

Hey look! Frisbee game ahead. Wattwil, Switzerland.

I had already decided that it would be next to impossible to follow this route solely by depending on the signs. They simply are not everywhere they need to be. I would not say the route is well marked but “pretty well” marked. Maybe best in the world but could be better.

Kaltbrunn, Switzerland

I had studied my route today and knew leaving town I would have a climb. Not too tough (compared to yesterday) and then a descent. The map showed flat or a slight climb the rest of the way. And that played out as expected.

Ricken, Switzerland

The descent offered gorgeous views of Lake Zürich (or perhaps that is Obersee, the “Upper Lake” portion of Lake Zürich) in the distance and the mountains ahead.

Flat farm roads ahead. With nice views. Benken, St. Gallen, Switzerland

At the bottom of the hill, I lost the signs and went with Garmin. I turned on a narrow road that was flat and straight. It was the right direction.

Schänis, Switzerland

I was just 25 km in (15.5 miles) and the rest of the day would be flat to trending upward. I would also be on these narrow roads with no traffic although occasionally riding back on a highway.

Where one of the Rte 4 signs leads. This river comes from Lake Walen. Bilten, Switzerland

I came to one turn for Route 4 and it went down to the river and followed a gravel road.  I stopped for a snack from my pocket then waited at the top to see if any road cyclists were on this path. One coming in my direction looked at it and exclaimed in German “they must be crazy if they think I’m riding on that crap.”* He then headed straight and I decided to follow him.

Näfels, Switzerland

Along open road were just cyclists and walkers. I didn’t see any runners. And horses.

Näfels, Switzerland

I saw a young man, Marcel, and stopped and asked if he would be my photographer. I wanted a picture of me on my bike with the mountains in the background. He agreed.

Mugging for the camera with a Swiss flag. Näfels, Switzerland. Those are the Alps, not the Rockies.

Marcel and I had a nice conversation of at least 10 minutes, maybe 15, standing alongside this wonderful path. Well down, my friend!

Marcel the Photographer
Marcel – Näfels, Switzerland

I really can’t offer much more. The route signs were pretty good but not perfect. But the weather was perfect.

Netsal, Switzerland

At Glarus Süd there was a festival in progress. The bike route was blocked with signage to take a different route to Linthal.

Ennenda, Switzerland

I figured if the route to Linthal was marked, why not take it, but another couple came by and went passed the closure. So I followed them.

Festival in Glarus Süd, Switzerland

I was glad because I don’t know if I would have known how to get back on Bike Route 4 and it was a great alternative.

Glarus Süd, Switzerland

As I made my way through the people, one woman said “Nice velo.” I liked that!

Leuggelbach, Switzerland

I found myself pedaling slower than normal, a little in part due to saddle sores but mostly because my eyes were constantly scanning the scenery. No need to race this route and fly by. And it was a short day.

Hotel Bahnoff, Linthal

My hotel in Linthal is Hotel Bahnoff. It has a much larger room than the Hotel Huber and the Wifi is pretty good. Time to catch up and study tomorrow’s route as well.

Linthal, Switzerland

POSTSCRIPT:  At dinner I sat out on the patio at the hotel. One table over came a Swiss couple who had just hiked whatever pass I am climbing tomorrow. They are from Zürich. We had nice conversation all evening during dinner.

Dinner at the Hotel, Linthal, Switzerland

*Ha! I have no idea what he said but that was certainly the gist of it. Seriously.

Ennenda, Switzerland