The Horrible Hundred. “It’s only horrible if you miss it.” What is surprising about this ride is the elevation gain. Many Floridians who are flatlanders seem to be caught off guard by the never-ending rollers, and some steep (10-12%) but short hills. It is a tough course – 5500′ of elevation gain over 102 miles (164 km – 1,676m). By contrast, the MS-150 100-mile course in Loudoun Co., Va., is also 5500′ (actually 5800′) over 100 miles.
Magic wristband
I first came here in 2016 and met my friends, John and Joe. In past years they haven’t joined me. Joe told me on Friday that he doesn’t ride much anymore.
Rest Step 3 – Howey-in-the-Hills – Lake Harris
You cannot arrive too early for the Hundred. Twice I’ve stayed in local hotels and that is the best arrangement so that on-site parking is not an issue. I stayed at the Home2Suites in Winter Garden which was 12-13 miles away via a straight shot on Fla. Hwy 50. It is six lanes with a small bike lane next to the curb. I did not want to ride that to and from the event. I drove it.
Rest Stop 1 – Green Mountain
I grabbed breakfast at the hotel and made my way to the west side of town where I knew there would be municipal parking. Once I parked I went through the mental checklist of what I needed to take. This was similar to my pregame checklist as a soccer referee.
Rest Stop 1 – Green Mountain
Bike. Inflate tires. Three lights, one front and two rear. Bluetooth speaker for the handlebars. Wahoo computer. Two bottles that I iced up at the hotel. Add water. Add Skratch drink mix to one. Four gels. Two chewable gels. Although there would be snacks on the course, I mostly prefer what I carry over what they serve, except for the fresh fruit.
Rest Stop 1 – Green Mountain
Wrist band. I had been given one in yesterday’s packet to be worn on the ride as admission to the snack areas and for the post-ride meal. There was adhesive on one end that said to lift here. I did and whatever I tore removed the adhesive. Yikes.
Lake Minneola
I had parked beside where the course went and otherwise would have started there. No need to start at the beginning since it wasn’t a timed event that needed us to clock in.
There are hills here – Steeper than it looks. Notice the guy walking up ahead
I was one mile from the start and decided to ride there to the registration table and get a new wristband. When I went in, even before explaining my predicament, a woman held a new band over my wrist and affixed it. I think I was not the first person to have this trouble.
Rest Step 3 – Howey-in-the-Hills
I proudly wear the team kit for Rooster Racing. Our motto is “Do Good, Ride Hard, and Live Well” which is on the back of my jersey. As one rider went by, he said, “Those are great words to live by.” Indeed they are.
Do, Ride, Live
The Roosters don’t have a large group but there are at least five in the Orlando area. On our team group chat, I invited them to join me on the Saturday group ride (free) or pay and ride the Horrible Hundred. None responded. None showed up.
Some of the 100-mile riders
Riding is more fun, sometimes, with people. Sometimes it’s more fun with alligators. Or bears. As I look to a possible Rooster event next year I am left wondering whether these are the people I want to ride with. They’re your best friends for one week and then don’t respond when you drive 1,000 miles and would like to ride with them. It feels fake.
Rest stop 2
I began the ride wondering what adventure lay ahead. I was a solo adventurer. At the start, a group of three asked me to take their photo. I did – maybe five or six from different angles. Plus one selfie. If you ask me to take your photo you always get a selfie.
Start line
A guy in my group from yesterday, Richard, recognized me and said hello. Today was his first century, and I eventually settled into shepherding him through the course. At times we stayed together. I rode ahead other times but would wait at major turns/intersections.
Mailbox on Cherry Lake Road
It appeared I was riding a faster pace on the flats but on the first hill we came to he blew past me. I had a bad Whoop Band score coming in, 28% recovery, and decided I would not press on any of the early hills. But I would catch him and we would ride together the entire day.
Richard, at the front
Richard has more melatonin than me. We talked about race and bikes and we both agreed we don’t see color on a bike. We see cyclists. We were in agreement that we were much better off before 2008 at not seeing color. Sigh. But today we were just two cyclists.
Rest stop 2 – People are jerks. Every cyclist has pockets and if the trash ius full just carry it with you until the next location
Richard started cramping around Mile 30. And then I remembered. There was one thing I forgot to bring and was still in the car – my magic anti-cramping potion – Hot Shot.
HotShot – prevents cramps
I didn’t have any cramps until leaving the rest area at Green Mountain at Mile 80. I stood as I was leaving (uphill) and my left hamstring seized. I settled it down but was cautious the rest of the way.
Rest Step 3 – Howey-in-the-Hills
At 1:00 p.m. I used the Sirius XM app and streamed the Steelers’ broadcast to my handlebar speaker and listened to the Ravens-Steelers game. Steelers won 18-16.
Rest stop at the top of Sugarloaf Mountain
When I finished I skipped the post-ride meal and just rode back to my car. And then drank a HotShot anti-cramp bottle. Done for another year. Tired.
Since I first did the Horrible Hundred eight years ago, I have always enjoyed the Saturday “familiarization rides” even more than the Sunday main event. Saturday is for group rides and is more of a fun environment than a couple of thousand riders on the road on Sunday,
Waterfront Park, Clermont
This year an email went out looking for volunteer group ride leaders and I answered. I was assigned the Cracker Cove group at 8:45 a.m. and looked forward to leading it. Instead, when I showed up I introduced myself to a woman who announced that she was the group leader along with a guy from Quebec. She would lead from the front and he would be in the back. I wondered what place I had in this group.
We rolled out and had gone about one mile. I was just a person in the group. There was a 9:00 group that went eight miles farther (42 vs 34). I announced my departure and went back to the start to join the 9:00 group. This was a smaller group, perhaps nine.
Rest stop one
Once on the road, one leader was doing all the pulling. After about 10 miles I went to the front of the line and started working. Twice I dropped the group. Oops. When we pulled into a small park, Jeff asked me if I would join him and another rider for more miles. My Whoop Band showed a recovery score of just 30 and I told him I needed to stay with this group. They eventually peeled off to get more miles.
Waiting at an intersection
At times I was up front. At times I went to the back. I was having fun. Diane, a slim woman, was getting shredded in the wind and I dropped back to pace her. When she was looking for a shorter way back to start because she wasn’t feeling well I told her I would pace her. We would make it.
And that’s what’s nice about the group rides. No racing. Just having fun.
Waterfront Park, Clermont
Back at the hotel long after the ride had ended, the director called to ask if we had an accident in our group. I told him that I bailed out and joined the 9:00 group So our group didn’t. I couldn’t say about the original 8:45 group.
We were never given assignments as to who we would be with. I felt completely useless in the original group, they had it covered. Maybe if we were all on a group text with assignments then things would have been different. But I helped a different group and no riders were harmed today.
End of ride
And a final note. At least four of our Rooster Racing group live in this area. I invited them to join me today, no registration necessary. None showed. As I plan my future riding I have to remember that none of my friends showed up to join me in an easy ride. Fun day but disappointing.
The Everglades is not a swamp but rather a very large slow-moving river. And sometimes it floods.
My plan for today was to ride the loop at Shark Valley four times. But I was in for a surprise. I rode out to the observation tower and saw a couple of patches of water crossing the road. I didn’t think much of it other than I didn’t see any alligators.
Big bug
It is still the wet season, defined as May through November. Last month, two hurricanes hit Florida. During the wet season, there are plenty of places for animals to hide. In the dry season, fewer pools of water mean animals may be out more. That seemed to be the case today – water everywhere and it was hard to find a gator.
I counted 11 alligators which was way down compared to dry season
I made it to the observation tower without a single sighting. I talked with a couple who had ridden out there and they too failed to see an alligator. At this point, I was going to finish my loop and just get in my miles. The loop is 15 miles or 25 km so I could get in a 100 km ride.
First gator of the day
But I was in for a surprise. Leaving the tram center the road was covered in water. It was, literally, a river, because the Everglades is a river. I went about two kilometers and the water seemed to get deeper. It was over the rims of the wheels, about two to three inches deep. It was eight miles back to the center to complete the loop. Without knowing how long I would be riding in the river, I turned around.
Flooded roadway
I warned a couple of cyclists headed towards the river with my recommendation. They also turned around.
Look very carefully. A mama gator is mostly submersed while two babies are in the grass.
Heading back to the tram center I saw two young women stopped and looking into the shallow river that is mostly grass. They found an alligator. ONE! My trip was saved.
Look – an alligator. These two Polish women were good at spotting alligators
They asked about the loop and I recommended they turn around at the observation tower. They were on rental bikes so getting those soaked was not as big a deal as getting my bike soaked.
Bike and gator
It was enjoyable meeting them and I headed back to start. I passed a second alligator so my trip was starting to come together. Back at the tram center, I decided I would try to ride the full loop. The question was how far was the roadway flooded.
Fun for the entire family
I had gone the first 2-3 miles on dry roads when I caught the Tour Mobile Tram. I think they were looking at an alligator so I stopped and took a photo. Maybe it was a rock.
More gators
I went another couple of miles and caught the tram again. I waited behind it and the guide announced to me that I should pass them as they would be there a while. As I passed I stopped and asked the driver where the road was flooded. He thought it was around Mile 10. I previously made it to Mile 9 and I decided I would try to ride through it.
Flooded for 2km – (1.5 miles)
Indeed, when I reached the flooded roadway I crept through it. And I could see on my Wahoo that I soon reached the spot that I had reached before where I turned around. This time I could continue through the flooded river and complete the loop.
Gator
I was on the backstretch, from the observation tower back to the tram when I caught up to the two young women I had met previously. They were from Poland, in Florida for a two-week vacation.
Friends for a day – if you see this and don’t want your photos on this site that nobody sees just let me know and I will remove them
Some rides are about the miles. Some are about the climbs or the scenery. Today was supposed to be about the wildlife. But there were few alligators and the ride became about the company.
Traffic jam for a gator
For the last five miles, I rode at the speed of Poland. These two young ladies, I never asked their names (I would forget even if they told me), were alligator whisperers. They seemed to find them where I missed them. But mostly, they were delightful to ride with. I forgot about riding for miles and just enjoyed the day. Thank you, my friends!
I came here last fall for the Intracoastal Waterway Century. I enjoyed it so much that I came back in January and rode a metric route (66 miles).
Rotary Park
I hoped today that I would ride a metric century (62 miles) but the wind forecast was daunting. Winds were coming out of the east at 20 mph.
On top of that, I stayed at the wrong location. Twice I stayed at the Hampton Inn & Suites Melbourne-Viera and I thought I had booked to stay there again. Instead, I ended up at the Hampton Inn & Suites Melbourne. The properties were similar but my planned bike ride was not. I was 7-8 miles south of my starting point.
Hurricane Milton casualty?
With the wind forecast, I modified my plan. I would start at the Rotary Park and ride the 11 miles to Cocoa. Then I would make a decision to do a metric or not.
Indian River
At the park, it was very windy. You could hear the winds. I started out on familiar roads. Since I was mostly headed north the wind was a constant crosswind which made the bike difficult to control. I was next to the Indiana River and still saw some remnants of the damage left by Hurricane Milton.
Next to Indian River
When I reached Cocoa I looked at the bridge across the river. I thought about crossing it and making a loop with the Pineida Causeway. I took a distant look and really didn’t see a bike lane or shoulder. Just two lanes up and over. I decided not to go over the bridge.
Cocoa, Florida
Instead, I headed north. I came to another bridge crossing that I did not remember. It was not the one farther up that goes to the Kennedy Space Center. As a rider was coming south I waved him over for some local advice. He said not to take the highway and wasn’t sure one could. He did say I could take the one in Cocoa. I thanked him and kept riding north until I ran out of road.
Flags show the wind
Back in Cocoa, I wanted to eat at Murdock’s but when I arrived saw that it had temporary hours due to ADA and family matters. It wasn’t open. I decided to retrace my ride.
Cocoa – a neat little village
The ride southbound was just as difficult as riding northbound. The only difference was the wind was now coming from my left instead of my right, It was difficult for sure.
After the ride, I checked some heat maps of where cyclists ride. The Cocoa Bridge would have been okay. The next one north, call it the 528, would not. I saw no heat map rides. I’m assuming that it would be a very bad idea if not prohibited. But I may try the Cocoa Bridge the next time I’m here.
This is one of my favorite rides, even though it doesn’t have a ferry. In a nutshell, take the Amtrak from Richmond to Williamsburg and then ride back to Richmond. My bike ($20) cost more than my fare ($12).
Richmond Main Station
There was a crash on I-95 South near Quantico this morning. Waze took me out to Joplin Road before getting on the Interstate. My ETA for Great Shiplock Park was 9:48 a.m. The train was scheduled to depart at 10:03 a.m.
I passed the Richmond Main Station and saw plenty of parking available but at what cost? I always drive to Great Shiplock Park, a neat little park about one mile from the train station, for free. I arrived and went through my mental exercise. Bike computer, Speaker, Front light, Rear light. Garmin radar (rear). Two bottles. Ice. Water. Food in my pockets. Check air pressure.
I was out of the lot at 9:55 a.m. to make my 10:00 train. Four minutes and two seconds later I was in the building. Elevator to the second floor and out to the platform.
Richmond Main
I asked the conductor which car and he said to pick one. I did and they did not have the bike “rack” set up. I leaned my bike on the bulkhead, preferring that to taking off a wheel and hanging it. From Richmond to Williamsburg is one hour and no stops so I knew more passengers would not be boarding the train down the line.
When the conductor came by he didn’t say a word, I suspect he didn’t want to change the luggage rack into a bike rack either.
The Capital in Williamsburg
I did a quick “tour” of Colonial Williamsburg and then found a course on my Wahoo and followed it. It featured some side streets which I don’t remember riding before but probably did.
Williamsburg
The trail was thick with leaves in places which made seeing the trail difficult at times.
I rode into a strong wind the entire time.
MyWindock.com – Chart of winds
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Chickahominy River
I stopped at Haupt’s Grocery in Charles City and got a chicken breast. I could tell I needed something although I had my pockets full of cycling food.
Charles City
At Shirley Plantation, I came upon a cotton field. I didn’t know they grew cotton in Virginia.
Cotton
Some of the trail is wooded which gave protection from the winds. Other sections were out in the open in which the wind and sun took it’s toll on me. It was 82 degrees today.
First Thanksgiving
Arriving in Richmond I made my way over to Libby Hill Park. I was hoping to see if I could beat my PR on the climb but never could find my line. The cobbles will beat you up. I sucked today.
Libby Park
Notwithstanding not getting a PR at Libby Park, this is a great ride. Well, the winds weren’t my friends today either. But if you want to stay on a trail, you can ride traffic-free from the Jamestown Settlement 50+ miles back to Richmond.
Richmond
There is a 6-7 mile ride from Williamsburg to Jamestown on the road but the last time I rode this I met a couple who took their bikes from the train in Williamsburg on a bus to Jamestown so they never rode in traffic. Not for me but that’s a nice way to do it.
The cool weather of the last week was a stark reminder that the seasons are turning. I had hoped to go to Jim Thorpe, Pa. for a ride on the Delaware & Lehigh Trail (D&L) but that will have to wait until next year. The weather forecast was absolutely beautiful for today and I got my car back after a week in the shop. Time for a road trip.
Spooky
I was leaning towards making this trip but only if I woke up early enough on my own. And to get there at a decent time it has to be early. I don’t do alarms. When I woke up early the road trip was on. I headed to Easton, Maryland.
There was nothing unfamiliar about this ride. This would be the 11th time I have done some variation of this ride, all since 2022. I know these roads. I love these roads.
Tipple Creek
From Easton, one can ride to St. Michaels by “land” or by “sea.” My usual route had been to take St. Michaels Road out from Easton but in August and today, I decided to take the water route. I parked at Idlewild Park and rode straight to Oxford where I would board the Oxford-Belleview Ferry to cross the Tred Avon River.
Today’s route was simple. Ride to Tilghman Island and back. When I arrived in Oxford I saw the ferry about halfway across the river. It is a 10-minute crossing but when the ferry arrived the captain came off and walked to the restroom. The Talbot does not have a restroom onboard and captains have to pee too.
Oxford Ferry
A very nice older man was the ticket taker. He had a cheat sheet of prices and before he could reach for it to see the bike fare I made it easier for him by giving him the $7 fare. He admired my bike and told me he just had service on his 1980 Trek. We chatted a bit about riding.
Tilghman Island
There were two cars on the boat going over to Bellevue. When we arrived a car that had been waiting on the Bellevue side started coming down the access pier to board the ferry. The problem was there were still boats on the ferry that needed to leave. The approach is one lane wide. The captain got off the boat and gestured for the driver to back all the way back to shore so we could depart. There is a sign at the entrance not to drive on until the cars have disembarked. Some people.
Tred Avon River – The Talbot in the background
I rode from Bellevue out to St. Michaels Road. I discovered the shoulder had just been milled and sprayed with tar. That would not work. I could not ride on that. The road has wide shoulders on both sides so I rode on the left shoulder against traffic but only for about 300 meters until I found new pavement.
St. Michaels
I was riding 100 km (62 miles) today and roughly 50 miles of that was on a wide traffic-free shoulder. The road from the ferry to St. Michaels Road is a 4.5-mile two-lane country road but always with light traffic. And on Tilghman Island the road becomes two-lane, but with super light traffic.
Oxford Ferry
I changed the display on my Wahoo to not show speed. I wanted to ride without ever looking at how fast I was going. Today was a ride just to ride.
The choice of the day was perfect because of the weather. The downside was the Scottish Highlands Creamery was closed today. It’s always nice with 10 miles remaining to stop for ice cream.
When I arrived back at the car I stopped my Wahoo and uploaded my ride. I was surprised to see that I averaged 17.1 mph today. Solo. It was faster than when I rode in August.
I wanted to ride as fast as I did in August (17.0) but I never wanted to be watching my speed and thinking I needed to increase my pace. This was a relaxing ride and the higher speed made it even better.
It was a rough week with illness. I did no riding most of the week opting instead for heavy doses of Nyquil and daily naps. I didn’t think I would ride on Thursday but snuck in the Thursday evening club ride of just 15 miles. On Friday I rode with Tim but pulled the plug at 24 miles.
Early rise
Yesterday was a private VIP ride with Jeremiah Bishop for top fundraisers for the Cancer Journeys Foundation / Prostate Cancer Awareness Project. I went from thinking I would miss the event early in the week to downgrading the distance I would ride. First I changed from 100 miles (Gran) to the Metric Century (65 miles/ Medio) and then I switched to the Valley View Adventure (36 miles / Piccolo).
Looks like the kids from the Albemarle School
I suffered on the VIP ride even though it was an easy-paced ride. I had ridden to the ride from my hotel in Harrisonburg so my final mile was uphill back to the Hampton Inn & Suites (University). I thought I might have to pull into a parking lot partway up just to catch my breath.
Registration
I never thought about not riding today. The only question was how far. And did I want to change my ride category yet again? I opted for the shortest route, the Piccolo or Valley View Challenge (36 miles / 2600′)
At 8:00 a.m. I was called up to the front of the group for photos and the rollout. I’m always at the front as prostate cancer survivors are invited to come to the front. That means photo time as we roll out of town. I knew that Robert and I would be riding together on the Piccolo route. And as we rolled through town I willingly started slipping back through the group. And he slipped farther back.
Start line
Just two miles into the course the route makes a sharp right turn onto Switchboard Road. The next six miles are on a narrow country road and a few hundred riders squeezed together create an accordion effect. It’s generally not an enjoyable experience. Actually, those eight miles are my least favorite miles of the route simply because the road is too crowded and some riders are a little too peppy.
Today I hung on the back of the group trying to gauge my breathing. If I needed to bail out early, I would. At the turn where the routes split, I stopped and waited for Robert and some other riders. Cool at the start I used the wait time to remove a T-shirt I had been wearing. I had been sweating and the cool mountain air felt good.
Waiting for my group
I went into today just wanting to enjoy the weather – the best ever in 14 years of the Alpine Loop Gran Fondo. This event supports prostate cancer and I saw it as fortuitous that my bib was #15 as next month I will be 15 years cancer-free.
It seemed in almost no time we reached the rest stop. I was truly caught by surprised that we were there that quickly. It’s not that we were riding fast, we weren’t, it’s just that the time flew by in conversation. This was also the starting point a mile down the road for a 22-mile loop. Fudge the math a little but this is the difference between the Valley Adventure ride and a Metric Century.
Rest stop
I had been chatting with a guy and he left the rest stop before we did stating, “I know you’ll catch up with me.” Well, no we won’t if you ride the Metric and we don’t which is what happened. Nice guy but I never saw him again.
My Whoop band had my recovery in yellow, the 12th straight day I have been unable to have a full recovery. But this was the first day in the last seven that I started to feel better. I thought about changing my route to the Metric, even on course, but I also worried that I might bonk around Mile 50. I didn’t know how one week of illness might affect me so I stayed with the shorter route. Plus I was enjoying the company.
Fog at the start in Harrisonburg
I let myself think of one goal. There was a sprint section on course. Last year I had a sneak peek at it without actually racing it. I had gone for a timing chip at check-in but wasn’t doing the mountain route. I asked a volunteer if I needed one and they said I did not. Of course, they were wrong. But since I didn’t have a timing chip when I came to it I offered to pace a woman on my wheel and maybe help her get on the podium. She didn’t hold my wheel and I had a decent time but didn’t push it. But I thought my pace that day put me in the running if I would try.
My favorite bridge
I had dropped behind my group. I stopped on the one-lane bridge for a photo op. The group rolled ahead without me. I had no stamina. I didn’t expect that I would.
Being alone and not being distracted by a conversation, I was looking for the sprint start. It was well marked and almost invisible. There was a vertical banner flag marking it but if you weren’t looking for it you might not see it until crossing the timing mat that marked the spot.
I saw Robert and John about 100 meters ahead of me. I saw them cross the timing mat and both started their sprints. I ramped it up and took off. It was the best that I felt in over a week. Robert and John who had been 100 meters in front of me were a bit surprised when I flew past.
Robert cresting Mole Hill
My feeling of strength would not last. The segment was 800 meters long and around 600 meters I faded badly. I wanted to get out of the saddle and spring the last 200 meters but coulnd’t stand. I just didn’t have it.
Yet, as I crossed the line I saw that I had set a PR on a similar segment on Strava so I thought I did okay. The exact timing of this segment was not a Strava segment. It was my best time on this segment. It wouldn’t be known until we finished how I actually finished compared to others.
Mole Hill
A group of four of us came to Mole Hill. The climb before Mole Hill may have been tougher and I went up first and then waited for the others. Robert was taping and let those two go ahead. I wanted to go last and pass everyone on the climb. One of the guys was up the road by at least 200 meters before I hit the start line.
I took off and quickly passed my two rabbits up the road. I didn’t consider this as a KOM and didn’t go all out. I wanted the sprint segment and was happy with that effort. Robert said something about racing for socks so I knew a jersey wasn’t on the line. I was happy with my effort and know I could have gone deeper but why bother? I didn’t understand all that was on offer.
Finish line
Back at the finish line I got a text that I was on the podium. Third, second, or first? When they announced the sprint results for 65-69 they called two names but not my name. And then I was in first. Nice.
There was a second podium for the Gran Fondo Series. I’m still trying to understand all the timing. When I got home I could see that not only did I win my age group, I would have taken second place overall with no age categories, losing only to a 45-year-old from Wisconsin.
I am pretty stoked about this PR / podium. I saw the sprint segment last year and perhaps in 2021. There was no event in 2022. I wanted to train for it but my illness kept me from training and from having the stamina necessary. I normally would be able to maintain my spring the entire distance.
While I am very happy for the podium I am also aware that this was in the Piccolo group, the shortest route available. Most stronger riders would choose a longer ride. So I went and checked my time against everyone in my age group in all the categories. I wish I could say I was first overall but I wasn’t. I was second overall. Second.
I am pretty happy about that. I also realized that my time was done after 40 miles in the legs and not 65 or 100 miles. I accept that. But it bodes well for next year and I will be changing age groups as well. Bring it on!
Today was a special day – the Alpine Loop Fran Fondo VIP Ride for top fundraisers. This event was on my calendar all year but as the time approached I did not feel well.
Robert and Jeremiah
I had something respiratory that was bothering me. Tuesday and Wednesday were spent napping. Nyquill was my best friend. I wasn’t feeling like riding on Thursday either but by 5:30, I decided to try the Thursday Night Ride. It’s easier to push yourself to ride with friends. It went okay.
Yesterday Tim and I headed out to Bastable Mill Road for a 32-mile ride with bailout options. I chose one that cut it to 24 miles. I had no energy.
I had been targeting this event (tomorrow) for some age group KOMs. Those were now gone. My fitness was gone. It may have peaked in August with the ferry rides. I changed my registration for tomorrow from 100 miles to the Metric Century (65 miles).
Traffic jam in Dayton, Va.
Our VIP ride met at the bike shop. It was great to see Jeremiah and Erin as well as Robert, the founder of Cancer Journeys Foundation. We had nine riders for our VIP country ride. Harrisonburg is nestled between the Blue Ridge Mountains and Skyline Drive to the east and the Shenandoah Mountains and the West Virginia state line to the west. While technically the Shenandoah Valley, this valley is anything but flat.
We rolled out and rode as a group. I was testing my fitness and failing. I’m not congested but never felt I could get a deep breath. I was short on nutrition this week – oatmeal was my dinner last evening. I needed to see how I felt for yet another decision.
Hinton Market
As we rolled along, someone had a flat in the group. I convinced Robert to ride ahead with me and not wait with the group who was supervising the guy fixing the flat. I told him we would soft pedal while waiting for them but of course, I meant we would ride normally and still be caught. And we were caught.
The ride ended at the bike shop and registration tent. However, registration wasn’t open for another hour. I had ridden from my hotel and decided to ride back to the hotel. Normally I would ride back and then return by bike. But the climb back to the hotel drained me. I showered and then drove back to registration.
VIPers
At registration, I was asked to confirm that I was going to ride the Metric course for tomorrow. I said to downgrade me again to the 38-mile route. If I had to I could ride the 65-mile route. But I would be going so deep on a depleted body that it would set my recovery back even further. I know things aren’t right because this is a ride I look forward to and I am dreading it. I need recovery which isn’t there.
Seventeen years ago I went to a Century ride in Kilmarnock, Va. That day we crossed a river on what I referred to as the Ottoman Ferry. I was trying to recreate much of that ride. I looked for ferries in Virginia and found two near each other in Virginia’s “Northern Neck.”
Merry Point Ferry Sign
I mapped out a ride parking at the Hickory Hollow Nature Trail in Lancaster, Va. My plan was to ride to the Merry Point Ferry, turn around, then ride to the Sunnybank Ferry. I mapped out a Metric Century (62 miles or 100 km) but was very flexible depending on how the ride went.
Bad dog
I parked in a wooded nature area big enough for perhaps four cars. It was country but there were a couple of houses across the road. I started my Wahoo and immediately had a Pit Bull (or mix) come charging at me. I had just started and there was no way I could get up to speed and escape.
I stopped and yelled “GO HOME!” while trying to make myself bigger. I was ready to dismount and use my bike to protect me when a truck pulling a flatbed trailer came up the road. The dog saw this and went back. The driver saw this confrontation and stopped between me and the dog. I was able to slip away unnoticed but for the next couple of minutes, I kept checking to see if the dog was chasing me.
Parking at the nature trail
I made my way to the Merry Point Ferry on Ottoman Ferry Road. This was the one I crossed 17 years ago. The captain or operator, John, was very nice. He was impressed that I planned to ride both ferries and told me to say hello to John who was operating the next ferry in my trip.
After crossing the Western Branch of the Corrotman River, I rode about one mile and then turned around and went back to the ferry.
John, on the Merry Point Ferry
I had planned to ride past where I had parked but checked my map and found a different route to my next destination. I had to avoid the dog.
The route was flat and mostly on country roads. I crossed the Great Wicomico River and then headed to Sunnback and the Sunnybank Ferry. I said hello to John who was surprised I knew his name. I was the only one on the ferry and about halfway across the Little Wicomico River John asked me if we could go back. A car was pulling up and he wanted to go back and pick it up.
Great Wicomico River – The bridge rises although it’s hard to see here
I was in no hurry and told him that would be fine by me. But then he had second thoughts and we continued to the trip. To make it easier when we arrived at shore I stepped over the retaining rope and was able to walk around the gate so he did not have to disembark to take care of that. We almost hit the shore when he ] reversed it and went back for the car on the other side
Arriving on the Sunnybank Ferry
I found an entrance to a development using Brammer Drive, next to the Chesapeake Bay. And a second dog chased me. Did I wear something dogs like today? Geez!
Corn – This led to a private road (oops) but hey, I was following the GPS
The ride back was a loop and then retraced much of what I had ridden.
Merry Point Ferry
Closer to Reedsville the roads became “heavy,” a cyclist description of rough asphault. Not potoles but more like the original surface without the smooth finishing coat. These roads are harder to pedal on an will wear one out sooner. There weren’t shoulders here and traffic increased.
Ottoman Ferry Road
Nice crossing of the Sunnybank Ferry (Sam)
Great Wiconmico River
It was a fun ride although I was shaken from the dog attack at the beginning. I was going to ride a metric century (62 miles) but cut it a little bit short. I may do a variation of this again but always with a watch out for the canines.
Peach milkshakes. I stopped but this looked more like a sit down restaurant so no milkshake for me
The challenge: Circumvent the Delaware Bay. The route was relatively straightforward. Go up through Delaware and return through New Jersey. Crossing the Delaware River by bike took some planning.
Two routes both generated by RideWithGPS from Lewes to Delaware City
I utilized the mapping features of RidewithGPS and drew a ride from Lewes to Delaware City. The first was using the app and it produced a 97-mile route. The second used the website and it produced an 80-mile route. That’s a big difference mostly involving one hour of riding time.
Milford, Del. – I didn’t see any ducks
That time would be significant. Saving “the best until last” I wanted to ride most of the day and then finish my day with a ferry ride. If I rode from south to north I would be racing to meet the last departure of the ferry for the day – a 3:00 p.m. boat from Delaware City to Pea Patch Island then to Fort Mott, N.J.
Crabs at Crab 73
The Cape May-Lewes Ferry runs all day so there was no time constraint in rushing to meet its schedule other than what I would impose on myself by the reservation I made. The Forts Ferry Crossing operates Wednesday – Sunday from 9:30 until 3:00 in summer and weekends only in May and September.
Egg refrigerator near Milford
Granted, the simplest would be to ride counterclockwise. Leaving Lewes I could catch an early morning ferry on Friday and then catch the 9:30 a.m. ferry in Fort Mott, New Jersey on Saturday. But it is nice looking forward to a ferry at the end of a ride. It is not nice to monitor the time during the ride and even skipping lunch because of a ferry schedule.
Fort Delaware State Park, Delaware River
I contacted my friend, Branan, who lives in southeastern Pa. for a recommendation. He in turn connected me with his friend, Marty, who is from Delaware. Marty and I discussed logistics. As long as the ferry was an option I was going to utilize it. The closest bridge crossing is not until the Ben Franklin Bridge in Philadelphia – a 90-mile detour.
Delaware City Hotel and Crabby Dicks
Websites are great but few can answer every question or permeation that one may have. I couldn’t figure out with certainty whether I could take my bike and take this ferry across Delaware. Where is George Washington when you need him?
On Wednesday, the day before I left, I called the ticket office for the ferry. I was told I could take my bike. Just be sure to arrive before the last ferry (3:00). Buy a ticket in the office, no need to do it online in advance. Board the boat to the island. Stay on the boat then go to Fort Mott. It sounded simple.
Reddy Point Bridge (Del. Rte 9, Delaware City)
Yesterday I went to Easton, Maryland, and rode out to Tilghman Island. I was chasing miles because on June 23 I was 970 miles behind my plan for the year. I also wanted a flat ride to get a good measure of my speed. I came in at 17.0 mph (27 kph) and wanted to use that to determine my riding time to Delaware City. I determined I should leave by 8:00 a.m. to allow myself plenty of time to make the boat.
Aboard the DelaFort
Lodging was at Home2Suites by Hilton in Lewes. I should have checked in advance for the parking situation because I did not know before I checked in whether I could leave my car for an extra day. I could. They have plenty of open space next to the hotel and Cletis said there would be no problem leaving the car for a day while I rode to Pennsville for the night.
Home2Suites, Lewes, Del.
The night was short. There was an alarm in the room that had been set for 5:15 a.m. Not my alarm. Not my setting. Not a great way to start the day. I did try to go back to sleep for an hour or so but my Whoop Recovery was still in the red (33%). Well, here goes …
Breakfast at the hotel
I was 23 minutes later leaving the hotel than I wanted. I was on the road at 8:23 a.m. It was windy. Most of the day it felt like I was fighting a headwind and my “windsock” measurement shows my longest continuous headwind was for three hours and two minutes. It was tough riding.
Georgetown/Lewes Trail
Destination: Delaware City. Fort Mott. Pennsville. I was only slightly confused leaving the hotel trying to find the direction my GPS wanted me to follow but soon found myself on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail.
Georgetown/Lewes Trail
The roads in southern Delaware were great. Mostly I had roads with wide shoulders. Magnolia was only 35 miles into the ride and Marty had suggested a water or food stop there because it was pretty barren the rest of the way. I did not need anything at that point nor did a convenience store jump out at me. Perhaps if I saw one if would have stopped. I didn’t.
Near Milton. Bike Rte 1
From there it was a brief ride on Del. Rte 1, a busy 4-lane road with wide shoulders. After two km I turned onto Del. Rte 9 – a back road generally with no shoulders although occasionally there was room to ride to the right of the white line.
Milton
Marty examined the two different routes generated by RideWithGPS. Both went through Dover. He suggested the brief foray onto Del. Rte. 1 and to get to Rte 9 as soon as possible. RideWithGPS did not like this. I could not connect two points and be routed onto this road. This appears to be a mapping issue with Google Maps as they must have this road off-limits to bikes. RideWithGPS uses Google Maps on the back end.
Milford. This is just silly, Delaware. This appears to be a 20-meter bike path complete with a bike stop sign for the first two meters.
In 2024 we can create or find a route we want to ride, upload that to our bike computer, and follow the map, not unlike a car’s mapping functions. The problem I had was I couldn’t map this section and had to resort to the feature of “drawing lines” instead of “following roads.” The only question I had on this ride was this section and my manual change to override the mapping feature worked perfectly.
Produce stand outside of Milford
I came to Little Creek (Mile 43) and saw the welcoming flags of OPEN that businesses will put out. I stopped at the Little Creek Grill. It has a small dining room and a counter. It was 11:30 a.m. and was packed. I had to ask one guy to stand up from his table to get past him to the cooler to grab water. I paid at the counter and thought that perhaps I should buy a second water to top off my second half-full bottle. He seemed bothered enough the first time. I didn’t try for a second.
Little Creek Diner – Perhaps the only place on Rte 9 to replenish supplies
At Mile 63 I was running short on water. I saw the welcome flags flying at an establishment and pulled in. It was Crab 73. I walked in and there was a man behind the counter with no shirt on. Two basins of crabs. But a refrigerator of water. $1 each. I took two. Thank god I found this place.
Crab 73
In reviewing the routes, Marty told me I had a better bridge crossing over the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. For some reason, I pictured that I avoided a very high bridge and was taking a back road with a draw bridge across the canal.
Reddy Point Bridge
As I approached the Reddy Point Bridge I could see the road going up. It was an impressive sight to see rising above the otherwise pancake-flat horizon. My legs did not like the thought of a climb now.
Reddy Point Bridge
It was two lanes, no shoulder. It was no different than the 80 miles behind me and I liked to think that now I was visible in a straight line with two brightly shining rear strobe lights. I would be okay. Maybe 10 vehicles, at most, passed me and all were respectful. The most annoying thing about the bridge was that there were large junction gaps in the bridge deck every 20 meters or so.
Delaware City
In Delaware City at 2:15 p.m. I went straight to the ferry ticket office to buy my ticket. A very nice woman sold me one for the 3:00 departure. I asked about the 2:30 and she told me I could board it but it would go to the island, return, and then leave at 3:00 for the island before heading to Fort Mott.
Delaware City
I informed her that I really wanted a burger. She wasn’t real sure of fast service at Crabby Dicks and recommended a sandwich shop, Sabatina’s. I entered the shop which was permeated by a rotten cigar smell. I bought a Coke Zero and left. I went for ice cream instead.
Fudge Packing Company
Sitting outside a shade-covered table, two young women and two kids came by with ice cream. They looked at the tables in the sun and I invited them to sit at my table for six in the shade. Nice family. They were babysitting the kids.
Fudge Packing Co., Delaware City
I went over to the ferry at 2:50 p.m. When I was sure everyone was off I walked up with my ticket. The man couldn’t have been nicer. He showed me where to put my bike. We left at 2:58 p.m. Hmm. Glad I didn’t show up at 3:00.
Stowing my bike aboard the Delfort
The ferry stopped at Pea Patch Island, dropped a couple of passengers then picked up more to continue to New Jersey. I had mapped a riverfront ride to the hotel and it worked perfectly.
Delaware City
The hotel was the Hampton Inn, Pennsville. At the front desk, the clerk was eating a sandwich and didn’t seem to want to be interrupted. I went to my room (digital check-in), showered, and then walked next door to the Cracker Barrel for dinner. Back at the hotel, I asked for the snack mix as my Diamond Member rewards. He said they were out. I asked for the cookies. He said they were out. “Water,” I finally told him.
Hampton Inn, Pennsville
PANIC ENSUES
While at Cracker Barrell I decided to book my trip on the Cape May-Lewes ferry for tomorrow. I brought up their website and clicked on the calendar date. There were no available times for sailing! I had looked earlier in the week and it seemed like everything was wide open. But no bookings were available. I screwed up.
My goal of circumventing the Bay just took a big hit. Did I want to stay an extra day instead? The answer is no, I did not. I would have to go back the way I came. Back over to the Delaware Forts Ferry website.
There is no ticket office at Fort Mott, New Jersey. One must buy a ticket in advance. I bought a ticket for Saturday morning at 9:30 a.m. – $11. The route back played out in my mind. It would be okay. Sleep a little later before hitting the road.
I went back to the Cape May-Lewes site once again. Maybe there was a cancellation. Then it dawned on me. I had been looking at today’s date for sailing.
When the body is tired the mind makes bad decisions.
Seems strange that nothing late showed as available but it actually wasn’t. The last boat had sailed. I checked for Saturday, Aug. 24 – and there were openings available all day.
I booked a fare for 2:30. Options included 1:00, 3:30, and 6:00 p.m. My original plan was back on.
Riding next to the Delaware River in Pennsyville, NJ. Looking at the Delaware Memorial Bridge (I-295)
JERSEY RIDING
I went to breakfast at the Hampton and out the door at 8:00 a.m. The weather was pleasant and just chilly enough I wore sunscreen arm protectors as arm warmers. The roads were surprisingly nice.
Turkeys holding up traffic
Virtually the entire way to Cape May I was on roads with wide shoulders. Also, the terrain tended to be rolling. No real hills per se but enough variability in the terrain to require me to shift gears often.
Salem, N.J. – A lovely town
Bridgeton, N.J. was interesting. It reminded me of Portland, Oregon, minus the hipsters on their bikes doing track stands at the traffic lights. But it did have the same amount of broken glass along the shoulders. Wanting a nature break I saw the golden arches and thought I would use their restroom. In the entrance vestibule, I was going to bring in my bike but saw a “beater” bike already there. I thought if someone had to hide that bike there was no way I was going to slip inside for two minutes and leave my bike unguarded. I left.
Quntion, NJ – Foot long hot dogs – not open at 8:52 a.m.
Riding through Cumberland Co., I went past the New Jersey Motor Sports park – a noisy proposition for sure. Near Mauricetown I went “off script” and I’m not sure it was the right decision. But I think it was.
West Park, NJ – Roosters!
I had traveled 44 miles and was low on water. Unlike the last 40 miles in Delaware, there seemed to be gas sations and/or convenience stores most of the way to Cape May. But I saw a Wawa.
Laurel Lake, NJ
My rule of thumb while riding, especially long distances by myself, is never pass a Sheetz (without stopping). And here east of the Susquehanna, that applies to Wawa as well. I got two waters and was good to go. I checked my maps.
Wawa – Port Norris, NJ
What I had mapped out weaved back and forth a bit headed down to Cape May. I was right next to the intersection with NJ 347 which looked to be a direct line to Cape May. I figured my original route was more on country roads and 347 was highway and I was right. I decided to take a peek and if it had a shoulder I would ride it.
Dennis Twp., NJ
I could feel my body tiring. I figured direct was better. I appears that I saved about four miles from my original route. I didn’t need the 15 minutes that I saved as much as I was glad to cut off miles. I started watching the clock.
Villas, NJ
The ferry departed at 2:30. Check-in was at 1:30 p.m. I still needed a ticket. I was glad to have shaved the miles.
Villas, NJ
One more convenience store and this time I bought water and a Coke Zero. The Coke would fit into my jersey pocket which as now empty of contents having eaten my way through the gels and food that I brought. A Snickers bar fit into my tightly packed backpack.
North Cape May
I departed the main highway and was in the residential area of North Cape May. No traffic but sometimes sandy streets and my route did not connect all the way through directly. On one street I must have had 20 straight blocks with a stop sign.
Ferry Terminal
At the end of the street was a Dead End sign whereas my map on my Wahoo wanted me to go straight. I saw an officer and asked if the ferry was straight ahead. She pointed me up the road and told me there was a bicycle entrance.
Ferry Terminal
I purchased my ticket online but I needed to trade that in for a paper ticket. I parked outside the terminal and went in. Maybe it was matching ID to the name in order to get the ticket. In most places the ticket on your phone is good enough but here you still need paper. Whatever it was, I got my ticket and was good to go. It was 1:41 p.m.
While I was waiting two guys came over to me to chat. One was on a motorcycle while the other was on an e-Bike. Both wanted to let me know that they ride “real” bikes when not on the machines they were riding that day.
Play minigolf before sailing
It was 2:20 p.m. when the first passengers were invited to board – two bicyclists. There are bike racks amongst the cars. I removed my Wahoo and Garmin Varia Radar from the bike and left the bike unlocked. I just didn’t think someone would pick up my bike and put it in their car. And if they did – I would trust the AirTag in the bike to alert me to the location.
Bike rack
I went upstairs and grabbed a bite to eat. Found a table with USB ports, sat, and relaxed. The trip across the Bay took almost 90 minutes. It was 4:00 when we rolled off the deck.
First on – last off
From the terminal, it was four miles back to the hotel where I had left the car two days ago. It was an easy ride, and I was back on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail for another mile.
Cape May – Lewes Ferry
Back at the hotel, I was greeted by Cletis. “You made it!” he said. I was parched and while he retrieved my suitcase with my car key in it, he also told me to take whatever I wanted from their cooler. The water was so good. And so was a Coke Zero,.
With gratitude to Branan and Marty for their knowledge and advice.
Lessons Learned:
I went light. I took a clean kit for the second day. I think I could have gotten by with washing it in the shower or even using the hotel laundry so I didn’t carry a second kit. Or maybe just clean bibs and wash the jersey.
I had a mesh backpack with string straps. Go with real straps even if using a heavier backpack.
As much as I like saving the ferry ride for the last thing of the day, consider riding counterclockwise and hitting the ferry first thing. The Delaware ferry was an absolute 3:00 cutoff whereas Cape May was 2:30 but could have been made for 3:30 or 6:00 p.m. But on both days I was very aware that I had to make a time cutoff and I would not have that if I rode counterclockwise. Having a hard deadline adds a bit of stress.
The last 40 miles in Delaware from Dover to Delaware City on Rte 9 are mostly barren for supplies. Riding north to south in Delaware would place those 40 miles at the beginning of the ride instead of the end.
Fun adventure! Will I do it again? Doubtful. But I would like to. And I do recommend it. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes.
