LEWES, DELAWARE
The challenge: Circumvent the Delaware Bay. The route was relatively straightforward. Go up through Delaware and return through New Jersey. Crossing the Delaware River by bike took some planning.
I utilized the mapping features of RidewithGPS and drew a ride from Lewes to Delaware City. The first was using the app and it produced a 97-mile route. The second used the website and it produced an 80-mile route. That’s a big difference mostly involving one hour of riding time.
That time would be significant. Saving “the best until last” I wanted to ride most of the day and then finish my day with a ferry ride. If I rode from south to north I would be racing to meet the last departure of the ferry for the day – a 3:00 p.m. boat from Delaware City to Pea Patch Island then to Fort Mott, N.J.
The Cape May-Lewes Ferry runs all day so there was no time constraint in rushing to meet its schedule other than what I would impose on myself by the reservation I made. The Forts Ferry Crossing operates Wednesday – Sunday from 9:30 until 3:00 in summer and weekends only in May and September.
Granted, the simplest would be to ride counterclockwise. Leaving Lewes I could catch an early morning ferry on Friday and then catch the 9:30 a.m. ferry in Fort Mott, New Jersey on Saturday. But it is nice looking forward to a ferry at the end of a ride. It is not nice to monitor the time during the ride and even skipping lunch because of a ferry schedule.
I contacted my friend, Branan, who lives in southeastern Pa. for a recommendation. He in turn connected me with his friend, Marty, who is from Delaware. Marty and I discussed logistics. As long as the ferry was an option I was going to utilize it. The closest bridge crossing is not until the Ben Franklin Bridge in Philadelphia – a 90-mile detour.
Websites are great but few can answer every question or permeation that one may have. I couldn’t figure out with certainty whether I could take my bike and take this ferry across Delaware. Where is George Washington when you need him?
On Wednesday, the day before I left, I called the ticket office for the ferry. I was told I could take my bike. Just be sure to arrive before the last ferry (3:00). Buy a ticket in the office, no need to do it online in advance. Board the boat to the island. Stay on the boat then go to Fort Mott. It sounded simple.
Yesterday I went to Easton, Maryland, and rode out to Tilghman Island. I was chasing miles because on June 23 I was 970 miles behind my plan for the year. I also wanted a flat ride to get a good measure of my speed. I came in at 17.0 mph (27 kph) and wanted to use that to determine my riding time to Delaware City. I determined I should leave by 8:00 a.m. to allow myself plenty of time to make the boat.
Lodging was at Home2Suites by Hilton in Lewes. I should have checked in advance for the parking situation because I did not know before I checked in whether I could leave my car for an extra day. I could. They have plenty of open space next to the hotel and Cletis said there would be no problem leaving the car for a day while I rode to Pennsville for the night.
The night was short. There was an alarm in the room that had been set for 5:15 a.m. Not my alarm. Not my setting. Not a great way to start the day. I did try to go back to sleep for an hour or so but my Whoop Recovery was still in the red (33%). Well, here goes …
I was 23 minutes later leaving the hotel than I wanted. I was on the road at 8:23 a.m. It was windy. Most of the day it felt like I was fighting a headwind and my “windsock” measurement shows my longest continuous headwind was for three hours and two minutes. It was tough riding.
Destination: Delaware City. Fort Mott. Pennsville. I was only slightly confused leaving the hotel trying to find the direction my GPS wanted me to follow but soon found myself on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail.
The roads in southern Delaware were great. Mostly I had roads with wide shoulders. Magnolia was only 35 miles into the ride and Marty had suggested a water or food stop there because it was pretty barren the rest of the way. I did not need anything at that point nor did a convenience store jump out at me. Perhaps if I saw one if would have stopped. I didn’t.
From there it was a brief ride on Del. Rte 1, a busy 4-lane road with wide shoulders. After two km I turned onto Del. Rte 9 – a back road generally with no shoulders although occasionally there was room to ride to the right of the white line.
Marty examined the two different routes generated by RideWithGPS. Both went through Dover. He suggested the brief foray onto Del. Rte. 1 and to get to Rte 9 as soon as possible. RideWithGPS did not like this. I could not connect two points and be routed onto this road. This appears to be a mapping issue with Google Maps as they must have this road off-limits to bikes. RideWithGPS uses Google Maps on the back end.
In 2024 we can create or find a route we want to ride, upload that to our bike computer, and follow the map, not unlike a car’s mapping functions. The problem I had was I couldn’t map this section and had to resort to the feature of “drawing lines” instead of “following roads.” The only question I had on this ride was this section and my manual change to override the mapping feature worked perfectly.
I came to Little Creek (Mile 43) and saw the welcoming flags of OPEN that businesses will put out. I stopped at the Little Creek Grill. It has a small dining room and a counter. It was 11:30 a.m. and was packed. I had to ask one guy to stand up from his table to get past him to the cooler to grab water. I paid at the counter and thought that perhaps I should buy a second water to top off my second half-full bottle. He seemed bothered enough the first time. I didn’t try for a second.
At Mile 63 I was running short on water. I saw the welcome flags flying at an establishment and pulled in. It was Crab 73. I walked in and there was a man behind the counter with no shirt on. Two basins of crabs. But a refrigerator of water. $1 each. I took two. Thank god I found this place.
In reviewing the routes, Marty told me I had a better bridge crossing over the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. For some reason, I pictured that I avoided a very high bridge and was taking a back road with a draw bridge across the canal.
As I approached the Reddy Point Bridge I could see the road going up. It was an impressive sight to see rising above the otherwise pancake-flat horizon. My legs did not like the thought of a climb now.
It was two lanes, no shoulder. It was no different than the 80 miles behind me and I liked to think that now I was visible in a straight line with two brightly shining rear strobe lights. I would be okay. Maybe 10 vehicles, at most, passed me and all were respectful. The most annoying thing about the bridge was that there were large junction gaps in the bridge deck every 20 meters or so.
In Delaware City at 2:15 p.m. I went straight to the ferry ticket office to buy my ticket. A very nice woman sold me one for the 3:00 departure. I asked about the 2:30 and she told me I could board it but it would go to the island, return, and then leave at 3:00 for the island before heading to Fort Mott.
I informed her that I really wanted a burger. She wasn’t real sure of fast service at Crabby Dicks and recommended a sandwich shop, Sabatina’s. I entered the shop which was permeated by a rotten cigar smell. I bought a Coke Zero and left. I went for ice cream instead.
Sitting outside a shade-covered table, two young women and two kids came by with ice cream. They looked at the tables in the sun and I invited them to sit at my table for six in the shade. Nice family. They were babysitting the kids.
I went over to the ferry at 2:50 p.m. When I was sure everyone was off I walked up with my ticket. The man couldn’t have been nicer. He showed me where to put my bike. We left at 2:58 p.m. Hmm. Glad I didn’t show up at 3:00.
The ferry stopped at Pea Patch Island, dropped a couple of passengers then picked up more to continue to New Jersey. I had mapped a riverfront ride to the hotel and it worked perfectly.
The hotel was the Hampton Inn, Pennsville. At the front desk, the clerk was eating a sandwich and didn’t seem to want to be interrupted. I went to my room (digital check-in), showered, and then walked next door to the Cracker Barrel for dinner. Back at the hotel, I asked for the snack mix as my Diamond Member rewards. He said they were out. I asked for the cookies. He said they were out. “Water,” I finally told him.
PANIC ENSUES
While at Cracker Barrell I decided to book my trip on the Cape May-Lewes ferry for tomorrow. I brought up their website and clicked on the calendar date. There were no available times for sailing! I had looked earlier in the week and it seemed like everything was wide open. But no bookings were available. I screwed up.
My goal of circumventing the Bay just took a big hit. Did I want to stay an extra day instead? The answer is no, I did not. I would have to go back the way I came. Back over to the Delaware Forts Ferry website.
There is no ticket office at Fort Mott, New Jersey. One must buy a ticket in advance. I bought a ticket for Saturday morning at 9:30 a.m. – $11. The route back played out in my mind. It would be okay. Sleep a little later before hitting the road.
I went back to the Cape May-Lewes site once again. Maybe there was a cancellation. Then it dawned on me. I had been looking at today’s date for sailing.
When the body is tired the mind makes bad decisions.
Seems strange that nothing late showed as available but it actually wasn’t. The last boat had sailed. I checked for Saturday, Aug. 24 – and there were openings available all day.
I booked a fare for 2:30. Options included 1:00, 3:30, and 6:00 p.m. My original plan was back on.
JERSEY RIDING
I went to breakfast at the Hampton and out the door at 8:00 a.m. The weather was pleasant and just chilly enough I wore sunscreen arm protectors as arm warmers. The roads were surprisingly nice.
Virtually the entire way to Cape May I was on roads with wide shoulders. Also, the terrain tended to be rolling. No real hills per se but enough variability in the terrain to require me to shift gears often.
Bridgeton, N.J. was interesting. It reminded me of Portland, Oregon, minus the hipsters on their bikes doing track stands at the traffic lights. But it did have the same amount of broken glass along the shoulders. Wanting a nature break I saw the golden arches and thought I would use their restroom. In the entrance vestibule, I was going to bring in my bike but saw a “beater” bike already there. I thought if someone had to hide that bike there was no way I was going to slip inside for two minutes and leave my bike unguarded. I left.
Riding through Cumberland Co., I went past the New Jersey Motor Sports park – a noisy proposition for sure. Near Mauricetown I went “off script” and I’m not sure it was the right decision. But I think it was.
I had traveled 44 miles and was low on water. Unlike the last 40 miles in Delaware, there seemed to be gas sations and/or convenience stores most of the way to Cape May. But I saw a Wawa.
My rule of thumb while riding, especially long distances by myself, is never pass a Sheetz (without stopping). And here east of the Susquehanna, that applies to Wawa as well. I got two waters and was good to go. I checked my maps.
What I had mapped out weaved back and forth a bit headed down to Cape May. I was right next to the intersection with NJ 347 which looked to be a direct line to Cape May. I figured my original route was more on country roads and 347 was highway and I was right. I decided to take a peek and if it had a shoulder I would ride it.
I could feel my body tiring. I figured direct was better. I appears that I saved about four miles from my original route. I didn’t need the 15 minutes that I saved as much as I was glad to cut off miles. I started watching the clock.
The ferry departed at 2:30. Check-in was at 1:30 p.m. I still needed a ticket. I was glad to have shaved the miles.
One more convenience store and this time I bought water and a Coke Zero. The Coke would fit into my jersey pocket which as now empty of contents having eaten my way through the gels and food that I brought. A Snickers bar fit into my tightly packed backpack.
I departed the main highway and was in the residential area of North Cape May. No traffic but sometimes sandy streets and my route did not connect all the way through directly. On one street I must have had 20 straight blocks with a stop sign.
At the end of the street was a Dead End sign whereas my map on my Wahoo wanted me to go straight. I saw an officer and asked if the ferry was straight ahead. She pointed me up the road and told me there was a bicycle entrance.
I purchased my ticket online but I needed to trade that in for a paper ticket. I parked outside the terminal and went in. Maybe it was matching ID to the name in order to get the ticket. In most places the ticket on your phone is good enough but here you still need paper. Whatever it was, I got my ticket and was good to go. It was 1:41 p.m.
While I was waiting two guys came over to me to chat. One was on a motorcycle while the other was on an e-Bike. Both wanted to let me know that they ride “real” bikes when not on the machines they were riding that day.
It was 2:20 p.m. when the first passengers were invited to board – two bicyclists. There are bike racks amongst the cars. I removed my Wahoo and Garmin Varia Radar from the bike and left the bike unlocked. I just didn’t think someone would pick up my bike and put it in their car. And if they did – I would trust the AirTag in the bike to alert me to the location.
I went upstairs and grabbed a bite to eat. Found a table with USB ports, sat, and relaxed. The trip across the Bay took almost 90 minutes. It was 4:00 when we rolled off the deck.
From the terminal, it was four miles back to the hotel where I had left the car two days ago. It was an easy ride, and I was back on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail for another mile.
Back at the hotel, I was greeted by Cletis. “You made it!” he said. I was parched and while he retrieved my suitcase with my car key in it, he also told me to take whatever I wanted from their cooler. The water was so good. And so was a Coke Zero,.
With gratitude to Branan and Marty for their knowledge and advice.
Lessons Learned:
I went light. I took a clean kit for the second day. I think I could have gotten by with washing it in the shower or even using the hotel laundry so I didn’t carry a second kit. Or maybe just clean bibs and wash the jersey.
I had a mesh backpack with string straps. Go with real straps even if using a heavier backpack.
As much as I like saving the ferry ride for the last thing of the day, consider riding counterclockwise and hitting the ferry first thing. The Delaware ferry was an absolute 3:00 cutoff whereas Cape May was 2:30 but could have been made for 3:30 or 6:00 p.m. But on both days I was very aware that I had to make a time cutoff and I would not have that if I rode counterclockwise. Having a hard deadline adds a bit of stress.
The last 40 miles in Delaware from Dover to Delaware City on Rte 9 are mostly barren for supplies. Riding north to south in Delaware would place those 40 miles at the beginning of the ride instead of the end.
Fun adventure! Will I do it again? Doubtful. But I would like to. And I do recommend it. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes.
