A Great Place for Bicycles, Not a Great Place for Cyclists

HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA

We came with the family for a week at Hilton Head Island. And I came to ride my bike (also).

On one hand, Hilton Head is perhaps one of the most bicycle-friendly communities in the country. They tout the miles of bike paths they have – which is true. But it also one of the worst places to be a cyclist.

Coligny Beach on Hilton Head

Many of the roads and streets on Hilton Head have adjoining bike paths which, depending where you are, cyclists are encouraged or required to use. They’re nice – for going 8 mph.

Bike path on Hilton Head

I rode many which were rooted (had tree roots underneath the asphalt which created a dangerous bump), were partially combined with a sidewalk and had a dangerous seam between the two, and way too many at grade crossings with streets. At every intersection while waiting to cross not one single vehicle stopped to allow me or others to cross.

Coligny Beach at Hilton Head

In addition, because riding bikes is popular, one must share the paths with kids on training wheels, walkers, runners, and dogs. Also, few are straight and run exactly parallel to the street they belong but wind and curve around trees and other dangerous obstacles.

Bike path on Hilton Head

If you are a cyclist, like I am, and cycling is your primary form of cardio exercise, one will not get the heart rate up if you ride sensibly on the bike paths which you should. One must ride on the street. And this is frowned upon by all those who drive vehicles.

Harbour Town

Somewhere there must exist one sign on the island that says SHARE THE ROAD but I never saw one. Bicycles simply don’t belong (except on bike trails).

Rooted paths

No where was this more evident that at Sea Pines Plantation. SPP is at the southern end of the island and is where Harbour Town and the lighthouse are located.

The Bike Doctor

The first day I was going to ride to the lighthouse I came to a control gate. The guard told me it was $9 and I decided not to pay it, electing to turn around instead. I was not told I was not permitted. But the next day I decided I would pay the fee. This time the guard told me that bikes were not allowed to enter unless they were in/on a car.

I could ride to within 50 yards of the gate, have my car meet me, put the bike in the car, drive through the gate and unload the bike, and that would be OK. The automobile is king here.

Bike gate leaving Sea Pines – that code probably no longer works

While I was being turned away at the gate, a lovely couple rode through the bicycle gate and signaled me over. I went while they held open the gate. I was in. I saved $9 and rode to the lighthouse.

I saw the lighthouse. For free.

While at SPP a security guard told me that I was not allowed to ride on the road because it’s a rule in Sea Pines. Is it a rule or the law? The best I can tell is that SPP is private property and they can make and enforce “rules” for their property although enforcement probably would not entail fines. Not sure what powers they have other then to require someone to leave.

Couple who left me in. Thanks!

South Carolina Law (SECTION 56-5-3425.) requires bikes to ride in a bike lane next to the roadway if one is provided (except to pass). And then, this: “bicyclists may ride on the roadway when there is only an adjacent recreational bicycle path available instead of a bicycle lane.”

Unless there is a local “law,” there is no requirement that cyclists have to be on those crooked recreational bike paths. But there are 1,000 Karens on the island who think and will tell you differently.

One of the straighter sections of bike path

Arriving at our rental house, I took off on a mixture of bike paths and roadway (side streets, not main roads). The weather was cool and rainy so I did not ride far but on my second day I saw I had four new PRs (compared to the day before). And that became my goal: see how far and fast I could ride.

At a minimum, I set out to be #1 age group on all four. On the first day I was out of the Top Ten Age Group on all. And I went. And I won. Number One on all four segments near the house. That was fun and gave me something to aim for.

First Age Group and Seventh Overall on Dillon Springs

Besides the Dillon Springs segment, I had the age group #1 on ay Carrabba’s (0:51 – old was 1:06); Beach City to Dillon (2:52-3:01); Reverse Folly Sprint (0:54-0:58).

So it was a fun week of riding. Except for the streets near our beach house, most were on the bike paths and would have been fun for a slow roll with the grandkids – but not at a pace to get the heart rate up. I suspect the best riding was back over the bridge around Bluffton on some country roads.

There were some flooded streets

Another indicator that this place is not a mecca for cyclists was my adventure in trying to buy an insulated Camelbak Polartek water bottle. There are many bike “shops” on the island but most, if not all, cater to the rental business. Much like my experience on Sanibel Island trying to buy a tube, the bike shops did not carry this simply accessory. I rode to the Bike Doctor and they did not carry it. A driver from Hilton Head Island Bicycles had pulled over so I asked him if his shop carried it and he said they did not. I stopped at Wheelz of Hilton Head as I rode by. While they didn’t have a 21 oz Camelbak, they did have a 24 oz. Polartek. I took it. Since most shops are rental locations, road cyclists should make sure they bring every thing they need and not simple able to purchase it on the island.

Wheelz on Hilton Head. Beautiful building and nice staff.

We had a good week. I saw an alligator on one ride and ended up in a helicopter on another. It’s a fun place for most people to ride but serious cyclists may be a little frustrated here..

Alligator and heron

Noseeums

SAINT MARYS, GEORGIA

Today I rode with Craig Babst and Paul Lemle. Alex Wright was our driver so I was hoping for good things from him.

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L-R: Craig, Barry, Paul, Alex
In our dedication circle I dedicated the day to Abigail “Happy Abby” Bolenbaugh, a soon to be six year old who recently celebrated her five year Cancerversary.
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Meg Shipman inking my legs

Too early to get ready to ride, we jumped in the Suburban and headed to Richmond Hill, Georgia, to ride our portion of today’s route. Forgetfulness would plague me today. We were in a parking lot with a CVS and just ready to roll out. Then I remembered I didn’t have on my heart rate monitor. Except that I was wearing it.

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Barry, somewhere in Georgia
 No longer using cue sheets we simply followed our instructions to ride on US 17. I don’t like 17 in Virginia, I didn’t like it in South Carolina, and I didn’t like it in Georgia.
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Alex Wright
The morning was quite pleasant with temperatures near 70. Expected to reach the low 80s I was an hour into the ride when I remembered that I had forgotten to apply Chamois Butt’r.
US 17 is a four lane road but in this section it wasn’t heavily traveled. Craig, Paul, and I had been riding in a pace lane, loosely, and Alex was following blocking one lane of traffic for us. With no traffic behind I told the guys to keep pedaling and I’d catch up. I dropped back to the “team car” and told Alex I had forgotten to use Chamois Butt’r.
Rolling on US 17, he reached for the tube. I extended my hand. He squeezed. Nothing came out. “Uh, Alex” I said, “You need to first remove the foil from under the cap.”
Alex removed the cap, then the foil, and replaced the cap. Reaching out the window he squeezed a sliver of Butt’r on my finger. I looked at him. “Dude, I need a dollop. A dollop” Alex then squeezed out a blob of the stuff on my fingers. I thanked him and rode ahead.
Now what? I was rolling down the highway about 50 meters behind Craig and Paul with a dollop of Chamois Butt’r in my hand. This would be harder than I expected. But I got out of the saddle and was able to apply it to the chamois and keep rolling.

Catching Craig and Paul they asked where I went. “Chamois Butt’r,” I said.

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Barry, Paul, Craig

Alex had looked at the route and found a longer but safer alternative. Thankfully. Our first turn was at Mile 25 near South Newport. We first passed The World’s Smallest Church* and then I asked the group to stop. We did and offered up The World’s Biggest Prayer for Meg Shipman’s friend, Kristen.

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Once we were off US 17 we could ride more freely. Out in the country I was shocked to see a runner approaching us. It was that remote. But I reached for a Key to Keys card and rode over to his side of the road. I held the card for him to reach and made a perfect hand off. This was that start of something big.
We had business cards about the ride and we were challenged to hand them out. And I took it to a new level. It was easy for me because I believed in the mission. On this day I saw a woman on the side of the road and I stopped and handed her a card and told her what we were doing. And so I would all the way to Key West.

We had a nice ride in to Darien, Georgia, riding on moss covered streets, passing beautiful houses and mileage signs including one to Key West.

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Almost Equidistant between Key West and Upyours WV
(There is no Upyours, WV)
Hoping aboard our magic transporter we were taken to Saint Marys, Georgia, which was my first day arriving well before dinner. Saint Marys is a quaint town located on the Cumberland Island National Seashore. It begged of exploration by bike, of which I had time, but I found the one washing machine next door in a small store. I opted to wash clothes instead. I’m sure my teammates were thankful.

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The evening dinner was Brunswick Stew presented by a local cycling club. One of the riders warned us to eat towards the picnic area or else the “noseeums” would eat us up. Tiny gnats, biting midges, impossible to see but you could sure feel them. The evening was beautiful but one didn’t want to spend time outside.
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Vince presenting a new Gnome to Patti Jackson
I was very pleased that my cousins, whom I had only met online before, Brad and Mindy Lawmaster, drove in from Jacksonville to meet me. I was touched and honored.
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L-R with the Lawmaster Family
Hannah, Sam, Mindy, Emma, Brad, Jack, Barry
Next door in a bar the owner made it Karaoke night. It was a throw down of talent between Vince Schiano and Rob Keleher. Everyone else sang for fun but these two sang for keeps. I was explaining to one of the patrons and pointing out each person and why they had no reason to smile or laugh. Everyone’s lives had been changed by cancer but here we were, one group, laughing like we may not have laughed in years.
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*There are a number of small churches in the U.S. that claim the title of Smallest Church in the World,

The Kids

HILTON HEAD, SOUTH CAROLINA

It was another pleasant morning. My group consisted of Meg Shipman, Jae Slye, Gwyn Reece, and me. We were Group 1 and this time we could roll out of the hotel after the dedication circle.

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Atlantic Ocean

With cue sheets showing left turns when they should be right turns andvice versa, the cue sheets have become a thing of the past. We just followed our driver, Alex Wright. Each day was special and this would be a special day.

It was yellow jersey and I wore a yellow jersey. My Team Fight jersey was dirty and smelly so I wore my CCC jersey as the back was a tribute to Jake the Hero Grecco.

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Alex, Meg, Jae, Barry, Gwyn

Alex drove ahead and would wait for us at the turns. While we would pass he would be jumping up and down and waving the Team Fight flag. LSU must have lost a hell of a good cheerleader when he left.

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Alex Wright

As we meandered down the coast we occasionally had to go inland on US 17. That is not a fun road to cycle on.

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Ferris Wheel, North Myrtle Beach

Twenty eight miles in we missed a turn as he wanted us to turn on 16th Street. Instead we went to 15th Street then turned back one block. As we passed the First Baptist Church of Surfside Alex spotted a playground full of kids. He had an idea – the right idea – and we all doubled back for a photo op. Alex first asked the teachers if the kids would pose with the flag but they suggested we be in the picture as well. And we did. Yep, we used this kids for a photo op.

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The Kids of the First Baptist Church of Surfside

It was very meaningful meeting those kids and their teachers. I wonder if they went home and told their parents about these cyclists riding by.

One teacher told us about a pediatric cancer center at the Medical University of South Carolina and told us to contact Jacqueline Kraveka. And we would. Well, we would try.

It was fun, and more relaxing, riding on the coastal road. But eventually the coastal road ran out and we had to ride on US 17.

I don’t like Rte 17 in Virginia and I don’t like it in South Carolina. Four lanes, no shoulder, and heavy traffic. But Alex followed right behind us for more than 20 miles which gave us a protective barrier. Because cars were coming at speed on a large vehicle and not four cyclists, they had to move over. But many saw “honk if you hate cancer” written on the van and gave courteous honks as they passed.

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Gwyn and Meg coming over a high bridge near Georgetown

Our moment of truth came when three sheriffs’ cars went by and none stopped to warn us not to block traffic. That made the rest of the ride even better.

We had a good ride. At 63 miles it was a personal best for Meg.

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Jae, Barry, Gwyn, Meg

On the drive to Hilton Head I called three numbers to reach Dr. Kraveka. We wanted to come by and visit their cancer center. When I reached someone who seemed to know what I was talking about I was informed they were having an open house today at 4:00 and it would be a bad time to swing by. I was disappointed and I think my colleagues were too.

We had located one of the other groups and could have had two groups visit the cancer center. I have a personal interest in pediatric cancer and count this failed visit, even though it was not planned, as my one disappointment in the trip.

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Andy Veliuona and Rob Keleher
at Sonic in Charleston SC

As we drove the two groups met up at Sonic in Charleston. Rob Keleher had never seen car hops on roller blades so this was a treat. Then we motored on to Hilton Head.

Dinner tonight was Dominos Pizza by the pool.


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