Stelvio Pass

BORMIO, ITALY

I will claim ignorance. As a cycling fan, I am embarrassed. Or I should be embarrassed. I knew nothing about the famous Stelvio Pass.

Caitlyn and Sonya in Prato

It was just a few weeks ago during the Giro d’Italia that the Stelvio pass made cycling news for days. The weather was so bad that the Giro either did or did not tell the teams that the descent would be neutralized for safety. The leaders flew down it, everyone else went reasonably and lost chunks of time.

Trek Travel bikes ready to go in Prato

Today, we would climb the famed passo Stelvio. And I knew nothing about it. Perhaps that was a good thing.

Trek Travel Guide, James Shanahan

We left the hotel in Moena by shuttle and drove a couple of hours to Prato. Once there, we offloaded at a hotel by an intersection of the roads. I sure hope Trek Travel had permission because we took over all the restrooms for changing. (I’m sure they did.)

Post Hirsch, Posta Cervo Prato where our climb started

We rolled out at an intersection and I went first this time. I had no intention of being first up the climb and within one hundred meters I pulled over as my spokes were hitting the speed sensor on the fork. Everyone rolled past me as I readjusted the sensor and then rode tempo to catch onto the back of the group, but only after also adjusting the bike pump which was being hit by the crank. (This was a Trek Travel bike with a bike pump – not mine.)

Lowest slopes of the Stelvio

The first four kilometers were flat or trending up at one or two percent. Once at the base of the pass, the road turned up into a beautiful forest with no idea of what lies ahead. It was warm and I was sweating pretty heavily.

Hotel on the lower slopes of the passo Gavia

Having been last I caught up with and rode with Caitlin Steele and Colin Giffney. I have ridden with them quite a bit this week. We chatted without hardly noticing the steepness of the road in the forest. When we went by the Trek Travel guides they were astounded that we were chatting away. We were supposed to be out of breath.

L-R: Caitlin, Colin, Barry
Credit: Trek Travel

Colin and Caitlyn stopped at a planned water/rest stop and I rode ahead, passing Bud Hoffacker and Anne Marie Redmond and then caught Chris and Jim Ashton. I’ve ridden with Chris and Jim quite a bit this week as well.

Stopped to smell (photograph) the flowers

Near the top of the forest one sees the first sign – Tornanti 48. That is turn or switchback number 48. Only 47 to go. It would be another kilometer before the next turn. The switchbacks on the lower section are much farther apart than near the top. On one turn we were in our lane, the outermost part of a left-hand bend, when a tour bus coming down the mountain was also trying to navigate the turn. The driver went as far wide as he could, either not seeing us or not caring. We stepped off our bikes and into the dirt and grass to let the bus pass.

Looking across the valley

Eventually we left the forest and could see nothing but road and hairpin curves ahead. I tried not to look for the summit but could not help it. It was so beautiful. Amidst the quiet of solitude of the forest was a constant din of motorcycles’ engines. This is a beautiful tourist road for everyone and sports cars and motorcycles use it too.

Barry

Jim and I started using the switchback numbers to talk about what we were doing and where we were living at that age. So 48 years ago I was ___ years old and was living ___. It made the time go by real fast. We were joined for a while by James Shanahan, our Trek Travel guide, and Chris and he rode about 50 meters ahead while Jim and I talked.

Chris and Jim Ashton

Nearing the top we watched two snow plows coming down the road. This morning the road up here was snow-covered. But with our two-hour shuttle followed by a two-hour climb, the road was clear although still wet in a lot of places.

Looking back at the road up Stelvio

At Turn 3 James stayed behind watching for other riders coming up the road. Chris, Jim, and I rode ahead until Turn 1 when I pulled over and made 10 or 12 beautifully packed snowballs. The snow was the perfect consistency for this purpose. I lofted one down two switchbacks below and it landed near James’ feet. Then another. And another. He looked up and thought I was trying to throw snowballs all around him. I wasn’t. I was trying to hit him but my throws sucked.

Jim, Barry, and James
(Source: Paid photo)

One more switchback and I reached the top. It was cold although the Trek Travel van was parked just before the summit and it seemed to be 10 degrees (5.5 C) warmer on this side than at the top or going over the other side.

At the top.
Credit: ? – Someone had my camera and a finger in the way

Lunch was on our own at the top. Although there were two restaurants that offered warm seating inside, James recommended “Richard,” an Austrian who sets up a grill and cooks bratwurst. That was good enough for me.

Richard’s Bratwurst

There were a couple of shops and I found a Passo Stelvio jersey although the hotel had a nicer version that I would have preferred. We did not linger long at the summit as we were starting to get cold.

Haven ridden up the pass with Chris and Jim, we descended together. On this side there were tunnels. Were we warned by James and Sonja? We surely must have been. What to expect could have been best expressed by a former pro.

“In a post Giro interview with Rouleur magazine in 2007, Brian Smith said of the descent to Bormio: ‘It was the most horrible descent I’ve ever done. I was never one to get scared on a descent. But coming down the Stelvio that day, with my hands freezing, having to close one eye for the tunnels, and then hope for the best once you were inside, is something I’ll never forget. I was petrified.’” (Source: EpicRoadRides.com)

The tunnels would mess with my Garmin’s satellite connection for a while as we zipped in and out. It made for a weird elevation profile, obviously incorrect.

Barry at the top of Stelvio

Both Chris and Jim were excellent descenders and I fell in behind Chris’ line. We were flying as we entered a tunnel. It was dark and featured a sharp right-hander followed by a left hand curve at the exit. The eyes did not adjust from bright snow-covered mountains to the dark inside the tunnel (with sunglasses on) instantly.

Looking at the descent towards Bormio

I followed Chris’ flashing rear light as we went wide in the turn. It was wet in the tunnel with snow melt. Chris went wide so I did too. As he recovered and went back to the right side of the road I was still over the center line when a car, with no lights, appeared in front of me. I touched the rear brakes and my biked fishtailed right in front of the car. I adjusted and brought the bike back under control and missed a head on collision by six inches or so. We did not enter a tunnel with speed after that. Chris apologized profusely.

Jim and Chris Ashton (Photo: Trek Travel)

There are a number of switchbacks on the Bormio side of the mountain as well although not 48 of them (I think there are 40). One of them, as I would discover later, passed within 10 meters of Switzerland and there is a road at another switchback that goes to Switzerland (Umbrail Pass). The border there was about 100 meters away.

Stelvio Summit

We didn’t know to stop to visit Switzerland but for me it was a moot point as I will be in Switzerland later in the week. We followed the road to Bormio then checked into our hotel for the night.

Just down from Stelvio Pass on the Bormio side

Stelvio Pass is the highest paved pass in Italy. It is a classic climb that, quite frankly, wasn’t that hard, just very long. Of course, I wasn’t racing. But at no point did I think of it as too hard or had to fight myself to keep going. I doubt I get to ride this again but I would love to. It is a great one.


Cold, Wet, Sleet

MOENA, ITALY

After yesterday’s big effort on San Pellegrino (it kicked my butt) the prudent thing would be to go easy, possibly even taking the day off. Some did. I did not. Not everyone showed up for today’s ride. I did. At the start it was gray and chilly with rain in the forecast.

Climbing up towards Sella
Climbing up towards Sella – Part 1

We rolled out at 9:00 a.m. Well, they rolled out at 9:00. I had to go back to my room to get my Garmin. I left it in my room then had to chase for three km before I got back on.

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Riding in memory of Jamie Roberts

We had a quick rest stop in Canazei. James Shanahan, our guide, encouraged us to ride (as opposed to standing around “resting”). James was always a big fan of moving and not resting. The weather did not look good. Unlike yesterday when I was first to go, I was last to roll out from the rest stop. I was going to take it slow. I rode for a while with Colin Giffney, a New Zealander.

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Like the roads we climb, this waterfall down in the mountain
is much steeper than the camera captures

Colin and I chatted about the difficulty of riding on the “wrong side” of the road. About his grandsons. About the Sydney Zoo (he took his grandsons). I asked if they have all American animals. (See, in our zoos we have koalas, and dingos, and duckbill platypusses/platypi*.) Colin had a new camera that kept giving him a disc error so when he stopped to take pictures he always had to reboot.

The climb up the Stella is 5.5 km at 7.9% grade from the crossroads to the Pordoi. We started in Canazei which was another 5.5 km of climbing.

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At the base of the first climb in Canazei

I caught up to Nick and Caitlin Steel from California. Nick is a beast of a rider but we rode at Caitlin’s pace, which was more my pace, and really enjoyed the climb. Reaching passo Sella, the winds kicked up and it began to rain.

a

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Climbing up towards Sella – Part 2

Caitlin decided to turn back, which was a prudent decision. Colin did too. Apparently half the group did too. Prudent. I didn’t. Not prudent.

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Source: http://www.thomsonbiketours.com/
We did not see stunning views because of the weather
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We did not stay long at the top. Just long enough to grab a jacket and put on some warm clothes for the descent and crappy weather.

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passo Sella – Just before the rain

As we descended off the Sella the rain turned to sleet. The ice pellets stung as they hit.

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At the bottom we began our second climb. In the opposite direction I was passed by a Team BMC car followed about five minutes later by a BMC rider. I don’t know who that was but was probably Daniel Oss or Manuel Quinziato, both of whom are from the Dolomiti region in Italy. (Unbeknownst to me, Tejay van Garderen passed our group yesterday on Passo Fedaia. But it didn’t look like Tejay.)

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The second climb was over passo Gardena, a pretty easy climb except for the cold blowing rain. It is rated as just 5.8 km with an average grade of 4.4%. I had passed some riders who were up the road and we waited at the pass. But then Bud Hoffacker and Anne Marie Redmond took seats in the SAG wagon. Prudent. It was a nasty bitter day.

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That meant I was last on the road. Well, I was along with Sonja Schmidt, our guide. I took off first on the descent although I stopped for a photo op. In the pouring rain. She passed me and had two full switchbacks on me as a head start once I was done taking pictures. I’m not sure what she thought when I caught her in those weather conditions.

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Beginning of the descent from passo Gardena

Sonja and I reached the bottom in Corvara and began another climb with switchbacks. This was a 6 km climb at 5.8% to passo Campolongo. We caught Jennifer Gands. I noticed I was mashing and Sonja was spinning. I asked her what size gear she had on the back and she said 30. I was running 27. She said “would you like a 30?” Well, yes. Later she switched the cassette and the rest of the week would be a tad bit easier.

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The three of us rode to the summit together where the most serious decision of the day would be made.  Trek Travel had lunches for everyone inside a restaurant. I was cold and soaked and did not want to sit down for an extended period. At all really. While everyone still remaining went into the restaurant, James gave me directions and off I went on the descent before the final climb. Solo.

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James had said if I turn onto a road full of switchbacks, I’d know I was on the right road. He didn’t say 32 switchbacks. The rain stopped about halfway up but the wind picked up. Each switchback meant a different direction for the wind. The headwind was nearly impossible to pedal through. But the tailwind was almost strong enough to coast up the 6% grade.

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Helicopter Landing Stop Lights in Arabba

It was a long climb and I feared I would be brought back by Nick. I don’t know if my psyche could handle being caught two days straight after being spotted one hour. The climb up Pordoi is 9.2 km and averages 6.9%. Apparently it has 33 switchbacks so I must have missed one.

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Passing a fenced field of cows, there was one poor cow standing out on the road by herself. She was probably scared, not knowing how to get back in the field. And I was scared go go past her. I crept over to the far left, never making eye contact (challenge), and got by.

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Photo Credit: Trek Travel

Those switchbacks seemingly went on forever. Eventually I could see a building that looked like a hotel at a pass. It was a hotel, but it wasn’t at the pass. There was another three km to ride after that but I could finally see the summit. The real one.

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Photo Credit: Trek Travel

After going over the summit of pass Pordoi, I had a pretty fast descent down 28 switchbacks, the first 12 of which we rode this morning before turning up to Sella. I was cold. Freezing. Soaked. Showing beginning signs of hypothermia. But I would make it down safely.

Colin told me he was in full hypothermia mode. He was shaking the entire way back and he had turned back after the first climb (Sella). It was cold.

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Once back to Canazei it was a matter of retracing our morning route. There were some sweet descents on the road. I didn’t realize how much climbing we had done to arrive at Canazei. Arriving back at Moena, I was two kilometers short of 100 so rode out and made it a metric century. Then hit the shower. Rarely have I enjoyed a hot shower so much.

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*There is no universally agreed plural of “platypus” in the English
language. Scientists generally use “platypuses” or simply “platypus”.
Colloquially, the term “platypi” is also used for the plural, although
this is technically incorrect and a form of Pseudo-Latin, the correct Greek plural would be “platypodes”. Source: Wikipedia 2014


Day 3 Itinerary – We did the Sella Ronda


Classic Climbs of the Dolomites

MOENA, ITALY

I came to Italy for the Trek Travel trip called Classic Climbs of the Dolomites. I arrived in Milan yesterday, and wasn’t too impressed, mostly because everywhere I walked I had to breathe in second-hand smoke. It was worse than Heinz Field after a Steelers win.

Milan Train Station

I took the train today to Verona then switched to Bolzano. I met our Trek Travel guide, Sonja Schmidt, at the train station where we were shuttled out to Nova Levante. On the mini-bus, I met Don Sheppard and we discovered we had a mutual friend in Lauren Hunt.

Milan Train Station

After grabbing our bikes, James Shanahan, had us introduce ourselves by offering a safety announcement. We had to choose one so I chose “watch out for cars, even while off the road,” offering up the case Jamie Roberts who was killed June 13 in Kentucky.

I brought a decal to put on my bike to remember Jamie

As I talked about Jamie we were showered on with tears from heaven. Lots of tears and it felt good.

Remembering Jamie

I missed a group announcement at having an “avid” riding option, which I hoped to do, and the whole group rolled out as one. We began a 5.5-mile climb, pretty easy. We mostly rolled together. Then we rolled over the top and down a number of switchbacks to Moena and our hotel, the Hotel Dolomiti, for the next three days.

Moena, Italy

Not much more to say. Met the group. Short ride. Looking forward to tomorrow

Itinerary Day 1

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