THE EVERGLADES, FLORIDA
The Everglades is not a swamp but rather a very large slow-moving river. And sometimes it floods.
My plan for today was to ride the loop at Shark Valley four times. But I was in for a surprise. I rode out to the observation tower and saw a couple of patches of water crossing the road. I didn’t think much of it other than I didn’t see any alligators.
It is still the wet season, defined as May through November. Last month, two hurricanes hit Florida. During the wet season, there are plenty of places for animals to hide. In the dry season, fewer pools of water mean animals may be out more. That seemed to be the case today – water everywhere and it was hard to find a gator.
I made it to the observation tower without a single sighting. I talked with a couple who had ridden out there and they too failed to see an alligator. At this point, I was going to finish my loop and just get in my miles. The loop is 15 miles or 25 km so I could get in a 100 km ride.
But I was in for a surprise. Leaving the tram center the road was covered in water. It was, literally, a river, because the Everglades is a river. I went about two kilometers and the water seemed to get deeper. It was over the rims of the wheels, about two to three inches deep. It was eight miles back to the center to complete the loop. Without knowing how long I would be riding in the river, I turned around.
I warned a couple of cyclists headed towards the river with my recommendation. They also turned around.
Heading back to the tram center I saw two young women stopped and looking into the shallow river that is mostly grass. They found an alligator. ONE! My trip was saved.
They asked about the loop and I recommended they turn around at the observation tower. They were on rental bikes so getting those soaked was not as big a deal as getting my bike soaked.
It was enjoyable meeting them and I headed back to start. I passed a second alligator so my trip was starting to come together. Back at the tram center, I decided I would try to ride the full loop. The question was how far was the roadway flooded.
I had gone the first 2-3 miles on dry roads when I caught the Tour Mobile Tram. I think they were looking at an alligator so I stopped and took a photo. Maybe it was a rock.
I went another couple of miles and caught the tram again. I waited behind it and the guide announced to me that I should pass them as they would be there a while. As I passed I stopped and asked the driver where the road was flooded. He thought it was around Mile 10. I previously made it to Mile 9 and I decided I would try to ride through it.
Indeed, when I reached the flooded roadway I crept through it. And I could see on my Wahoo that I soon reached the spot that I had reached before where I turned around. This time I could continue through the flooded river and complete the loop.
I was on the backstretch, from the observation tower back to the tram when I caught up to the two young women I had met previously. They were from Poland, in Florida for a two-week vacation.
Some rides are about the miles. Some are about the climbs or the scenery. Today was supposed to be about the wildlife. But there were few alligators and the ride became about the company.
For the last five miles, I rode at the speed of Poland. These two young ladies, I never asked their names (I would forget even if they told me), were alligator whisperers. They seemed to find them where I missed them. But mostly, they were delightful to ride with. I forgot about riding for miles and just enjoyed the day. Thank you, my friends!
