Note: On June 4-9, I participated in Cykelnerven, a cycling event that benefits the Multiple Sclerosis International Foundation (MSIF). We took on some of the toughest climbs to be used in this year’s Tour de France.
FRANCE
For those who prefer a simple summary.
SATURDAY, JUNE 1
I flew from Washington-Dulles at 11:30 p.m. to Rejkevick, Iceland arriving at 9:00 a.m. Sunday with my connecting flight to Milan, Italy at 8:00 a.m. on Monday. I had 23 hours to kill. Or explore. I chose to explore.
I really needed to rest. Instead, I did some driving in Iceland but I was very tired. My wake-up call was at 4:00 a.m. to get back to the airport and on to Milan, Italy. I didn’t see much and would have been better served to stay at a hotel at the airport and make plans to see Iceland another time.
I flew from Iceland to Italy. When I gathered my luggage I found the hotel shuttle (with the help of the Terravision Bus guys) and went to the Doubletree Hotel. I had a sandwich in my carry-on from the hotel in Iceland that became my dinner. I did not try to sightsee in Milan. I was here 10 years ago.
These guys were the best
TUESDAY, JUNE 4
On Tuesday, June 4, I stayed at the hotel until 2:00 p.m. and then went back to the airport which was the meeting point for our transport to Briançon, France.
At the hotel, we had staff introductions, a brief team meeting, dinner, and built bikes (for those who brought bikes and didn’t rent).
We awoke to a chilly but beautiful morning. All of us would ride from Briançon to the Col du Galibier. This was the last of my “bike-it” (bucket) list climbs; one I never thought I would do after being turned back by snow on July 19, 2011.
Our second climb of the day was the HC Col de Vars to the hotel. I was last. It was a tough day.
We began the day with a climb of the Col de Vars. After a 15-mile descent, we had an 11-mile climb up the Cime de la Bonette, the toughest climb of the week. It will be used in Stage 19 of this year’s Tour de France. I thought I was done for the day after that as mu teammates arranged a shuttle pickup to the hotel at the bottom of the climb. I rode ahead, uphill, to the hotel, in the rain.
We had a 20-mile descent followed by a 10-mile climb of the Col de la Cpuillole, which will be the finishing climb on Stage 20 of this year’s Tour de France. That was followed by a 20-mile descent and a bus transfer to Menton.
Our route changed from the plan to an out-and-back on the Col de Turini due to a road rally being held. I went a bit short and went swimming in the Mediterranean.
Conor and Barry before skipping out on the check
SUNDAY, JUNE 9
We took a bus to the airport in Nice. Sat 10 minutes at a toll booth when the driver refused to pay the toll, got pulled over and searched by the police, and the bus broke down. What a great trip to the airport. Flew from Nice to Hamburg to connect to Zurich.
Policeman came aborad the bus
MONDAY, JUNE 10
At check-in last night at the Zurich Airport Hilton I was upgraded to a relaxation room. I could have stayed in this hotel 36 straight hours. But I went for a 35-mile ride halfway around Lake Zurich and took the ferry across.
Relaxation Room, Zurich Airport Hilton
TUESDAY, JUNE 11
I returned two weeks earlier than planned on American Airlines Zurich to Philadelphia then Philadelphia to D.C. The flight time (aloft) from Phila. to D.C. was 29 minutes. The wait for luggage: 45 minutes.
I love cycling. I love to ride and I love watching races. I had not planned but maybe hoped a little bit, to be in Switzerland during the eight-day-long Tour de Suisse (Tour of Switzerland). But last week my friend, Ben, told me that the Tour de Suisse would go by where I was staying.
Climbing Oberalp – 12:39 p.m.
My mind was not in a good place. My bike was missing for the third straight day even though I knew where it was at London’s Heathrow Airport because I have an Apple AirTag in the bike. But no one at British Airways gave a damn.
Race Caravan – 11:28 a.m. Riders still coming up the mountain
Unable to ride, I was now trying to enjoy the best of Switzerland without a bike. I drove the Furka Pass yesterday mainly envious of the cyclists I saw climbing it but also to see if I could find a great viewing location for today.
Belvedere Hotel (closed) on Furka Pass First climb of Stage 5
I saw the turn to Oberalp but did not drive up that climb. But that would be the second of three big climbs today. So today I decided to go back to Andermatt and find a spot on the climb to watch the race go by.
Breakaway of 19 riders – 12:42 p.m.
Leaving Andermatt just as the road turned up there was a sign marking the Green Zone. This is a designated area where riders can discard their food wrappers and bottles. What is cool is right after a feed zone, and this may have been that, where the riders get fresh bottles, they discard the used bottle by gently tossing them to the side of the road, generally towards spectators’ feet.
Viewing location – 11:03 a.m.
I thought that the Green Zone could be a good place to watch from but it was quite low on the climb. Maybe higher up would produce better memories. I kept driving.
Alpenhorn – 12:47 p.m.
Parking was scarce on the sides of the road but I passed a few locations where I could have stopped. Near the top before the climb plateaus to a 2-3% grade there was a camper van pulled over with four other cars. There was room for two more. I stopped.
View from across the road where I parked – 10:49 a.m.
It was chilly on the climb. I first wore a wind jacket but switched to my thermal jacket. I walked around a little but mostly sat in the car with the windows open enjoying the fresh Swiss mountain air. If Switzerland has the purest mountain water (it does) it also has the purest mountain air.
Head of the chasing peloton – 12:44 p.m.
I was envious of the recreational riders pedaling the climb. Many were laboring but some were flying. Some were obviously on e-bikes which are very popular here whereas others could have been on less obvious but still e-bikes. I had some energy chews for my riding that wasn’t happening and decided I would hand those to the next three riders who passed by. I stood at the road as a guy came by and held a pack for him to grab. He completely ignored me. I didn’t try a second rider. I needed my food more anyhow.
Matthias Norsgaard (DEN) – Six minutes down – 12:48 p.m.
Across the road from us at this intersection two team cars parked. One was from Arkea-Sampson and the other was BORA-Hansgrove. Both drivers wore team colors or put on a team vest. They prepared water bottles and would hand their riders a drink bottle as they rode by. The BORA soigneur saw two riders coming up the road including a young woman wearing a full BORA cycling kit. He held out a fresh water bottle for her and then pushed her butt up the road. I think he really just wanted to touch her butt.
Team cars
The television coverage of this race was not wall-to-wall (start-to-finish). Basically, there would be coverage for the final two hours which meant that the race would pass by my location before coverage started. I have the GCN+ app on my phone and would have liked to watch the race to know where the riders were and what was happening.
The peloton – two minutes behind the breakaway – 12:44 p.m.
Instead, I went to the procyclingstats website and could find text coverage. I knew where they were on course and who was in the breakaway.
Elevation map
One hour and 15 minutes ahead of the race the publicity caravan came by. In the Tour de France this is an exciting part of spectating as many vehicles, mostly large trucks decorated as floats come by and people would throw items to the crowd. Not so for this caravan. There were maybe 10 cars total and each one would slow to a crawl if not stop to hand out items.
Peleton – 12:44 p.m.
I got a bamboo paper fan, many pieces of mint gum, a tiny pack of gummy chews, a little drink bottle, a can of soft drink, and a box of pre-made cabbage salads. That last one is staying in Switzerland.
Peleton – 12:44 p.m.
With TV coverage, you can hear the helicopter overhead when the race was near. Without thinking about it I expected to hear a race helicopter but there would be none. It was a TV helicopter after all.
Race Director – Seven minutes ahead of the first riders – 12:35 p.m.
There was a parade of policemen on motorbikes passed by and we knew the race was close by. I was at the edge of a hill and could see switchbacks below.
Peleton – 12:44 p.m.
And we have an Alpenhorn. One of the guys, maybe in the camper van, brought out his Alpenhorn to serenade the riders as they passed. He only played for the riders, that is, he did not play the horn unless riders were present.
Off the back – 12:46 p.m.
The breakaway group was composed of 19 riders. I knew two Americans were in the bunch, Quinn Simmons (Trek-Segafredo) and Nielsen Powless (EF-Education Frst-Easy Post). As they got in front of me I stopped taking photos and became a fan/supporter.
ABANDON – Louis Barré (FRA) – 1:04 p.m.
They were both recognizable and I called them out by name. I suspect they heard their names and hoped it gave them some encouragement.
Further off the back – 12:52 p.m.
The breakaway group had a lead of two minutes over the peloton. This group had the yellow jersey wearer and also Swiss star Gino Mäder as well as American Magnus Sheffield.
Thanks to the technology of time stamping photos I can say the breakaway group went past my location at 12:42 followed by the main peloton two minutes later at 12:44. A solo rider from Bahrain Victorius “in the cars” came by at 12:46.
Breakaway – 12:42 p.m.
The last rider, followed by the broom wagon, or Besenwegen, was French rider Louis Barré, of the Arkea team. He was heavily bandaged and it was unclear whether that was from a crash today or yesterday. He was relaxed and calmly stopped and dismounted. The soigneur took his bike and removed the front wheel to put the bike in the car. The rider took a Coke and then climbed into the front seat.
Broom Wagon – 1:03 p.m.
The end of the race went by followed by what appeared to be regular traffic following the Tour up the road. The Arkea car looked to be having a problem pulling out into traffic so I stepped into traffic and held it up so they could leave. Probably not culturally appropriate and maybe even illegal. Oh well. I looked at Louis Barré and gave him a thumbs up. He smiled and gave me thumbs-up as well.
I was headed to the summit and followed the cars. It didn’t feel like the peloton had gone by that long ago and expected to slow down as we caught the back of them. It never happened. These guys go faster than you think.
I reached the lake and the world’s highest lighthouse. I checked my maps and decided to turn around to head back to the Hotel Searausch in Beckereid, my hotel for the evening.
Oberalppass
Perhaps 90 minutes later, Gino Mäder (SUI) and Magnus Sheffield (USA) crashed. Since they were “behind the race” this was not immediately reported on. There were no media with them to see them go down.
The highest lighthouse in the world – Oberalppass
Unbeknownst to followers, both Gino and Magnus went off the road into a ravine. While Magnus would crash out with a concussion, Gino would be airlifted to the hospital in Chur. It was reported later that he was found in water and was resuscitated. The Tour was notified of his death at 11:30 the next morning.
Stage 6 would be neutralized and only the last 20 km would be ridden in a silent procession.
I surely have one of the last photos ever taken of Gino Mäder.
I love cycling and recognize that it is inherently dangerous to balance on two wheels and sometimes in traffic. But to think that Gino and the peloton passed in front of me and 90 minutes later would die, left me shaken.
Gino, in red, is drinking from a blue water bottle
I first came here four years ago with my friend Ben. We climbed the Gotthard Pass and watched the first riders go by in the Tour de Suisse (Tour of Switzerland). We were short on time and Ben and I had to ride 30 km in one hour to make the last connecting train of the day that would get me to Zurich before DHL closed. (We made it.)
Devil’s Bridge
Ben and I left our viewing position in Hospental where the Tour de Suisse route would turn and head up to Furka Pass. As soon as the leaders flew by we took off for the train station in Wassen. It was all downhill but into a headwind.
Reuss River
We came to the Schöllenen Gorge and I knew nothing about it. I’m not sure Ben, a Swiss native, knew either. And I marveled at how gorgeous it was. I even yelled to Ben how beautiful it was and he asked if I wanted to stop. “No, we don’t have time!”
I didn’t know what it was. I would learn later that it was Devil’s Bridge. And I knew that I had to come back someday and ride my bike through here again.
Devil’s Bridge
Getting back to Devil’s Bridge became a bucket list destination. This trip was made solely to come back to this area, by bike. It would not work out that way. British Airways lost my bike and I didn’t have a bike to ride. So I would rent a car and drive.
Tunnel through a sheer cliff
I spent last night at a “House in the Swiss Alps” that I had rented near Wassen. It was very remote, about nine kilometers up the mountain from Wassen. I left there this morning to find Devil’s Bridge.
Reuss River
I found Devil’s Bridge. I really wanted to be here by bike. I passed two cyclists climbing the formidable route up to the bridge and felt a twinge of jealousy. In the four years since I last visited a bike route up the mountain had been built that takes cyclists off the main road and into the woods. That is where I longed to be. But, as the adage goes, when life gives you lemons, make lemonade. And I would.
House in the Alps
Because I was not on a bike I was free to explore a little more. I didn’t have to worry about leaving my bike unattended in the parking lot. And I wore running shoes so I could walk much easier than if I was wearing my cycling shoes.
Restaurant (closed) at Devil’s Bridge
Despite my high expectations for this area, they were still met. Even exceeded. This place is beautiful. My memory did not fail me.
I don’t know if I will ever be back here. And if so will it be by bike or by car? But my bucket list item has been met.
Road below Devil’s BridgeBike path by Devil’s Bridge
There’s a ride out west which bills itself as “America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride.” It circumvents Lake Tahoe in California and Nevada and it sure is beautiful. Maybe the title is a little presumptuous but it surely is in the top ten of beautiful rides in the U.S.
Arth-Goldau. Cog Railway
Today I cast my vote for my most beautiful ride in the world. I would not have found it without Ben. I learned a lot about trains and bikes in Switzerland today. Ben and I (but mostly Ben) thought we had a plan but there were many moving parts. And not all went so well. We left Ben’s house at 6:40 a.m. and walked to the train station in Sissach.
Airola, Switzerland
When the train for Zürich came we tried to be aligned with the car that takes bikes. We weren’t. Ben spotted it and we rushed with two bikes, a bike case, and two suitcases. And barely made it.
Airola, Switzerland
Once on board, it was a relaxing train ride to the Zürich Main Station. There we found the DHL luggage drop-off, mainly because I had used it before but had no idea when, how, or why. The cost for day storage was 12 CHF per bag. I loaded both my two extra bags into the empty bike case to make it one bag instead of three. This is beating the system.
Airola, Switzerland Rolling through town and already climbing
Ben had tried yesterday to make a reservation for our bikes for the train out of Zürich and could not. He assumed the app or website was not working properly but it may have been because they were sold out of bike reservations. But it didn’t display that way.
Tremola Road
In Zürich, we rushed over to the track and Ben asked a conductor about getting our bikes on the train. She told him he needed a bike reservation and there were none available. Ben said he had been trying but their app wasn’t working. After some back and forth she told him to see the conductor at the end of the train. (The exchange was not this pleasant though.)
Now the end of this train seemingly was 200 meters away – at least. Ben was running to reach the conductor. I was in flip-flops and couldn’t run without them falling off. I got on my bike and rode down the platform. I hope that was OK.
Water water everywhere. But no fountains on Tremola Road.
The conductor took our bikes and put them in a freight car on the train. We took a seat and the conductor came by at which time we paid 5 CHF for the “reservation” which we did not have. The cost of a bike pass was 20 CHF so now I was in for 25 CHF to be able to take my bike on a train. I had paid 30 CHF for a companion pass to be with Ben.
St. Gotthard Pass CREDIT: Thomson Bike Tours, Weekly Newsletter, 12 Jun 2020
We had to transfer, somewhere, I was just along for the ride. Ben said to disembark and we got off and then transferred to another train. This train to Airolo only required that bikes be hung on one of the two hooks in each car. The train came into the station and we looked for a car with room for our bikes. As the cars went by the bike hooks were all full. We went to the last car as did four other cyclists and neatly put six bikes in a space for two.
Once the train started rolling we felt safe. But Ben mentioned that if they saw the bikes they could put us off at the next stop, which was a couple of stops short of our destination. Two conductors came by. I could not hear or at least understand what they were saying. Ben said they laughed at all the bikes and said it wasn’t the record – they once had 47. Or maybe we have 47 on this train.
Tremola Road
Some of the riders on the train were road cyclists headed to see the Tour de Suisse, as we were. Some were enjoying a beautiful summer day to go mountain biking. But there were lots of cyclists on the train whether they be of the slick tire or knobby tire variety.
We exited at Airolo, which is in the Italian-speaking portion of Switzerland. I met a couple who saw the cookie decal on my bike. He asked me if that was a Phil Gaimon cookie. Who knew someone in Switzerland would know about the cookies? It turns out that the young man was from Switzerland but has ridden Mount Palomar and Mount Baldy in Southern California, as I have. His friend, or girlfriend, was from Russia.
Airolo, Switzerland. Young Swiss man with his Russian girlfriend.
We did not have water in our bottles and would make a critical mistake. Seemingly water is free (and good) everywhere in Switzerland. We found a fountain in town but it was turned off. We found a second fountain and it too was off. What was up with that? We began the climb with no water.
Turning onto Tremola Road we faced a stretch of cobblestones. They were beautiful in design but require, of course, more effort. I had read about this climb once and thought there was 1-2 km of stone. Boy was I wrong. It was cobbled for all 14 km (9 miles) of the climb.
I had gotten sick midweek in Luxembourg and it was hanging on me. I was sick. My legs may have been dead from all the work too. I had nothing. Perhaps the answer would be revealed later.
We may have been 10 km in when I spotted a bathtub in a pasture with a pipe over it and cold running water. I asked Ben if we could drink the water coming out of the pipe and he said sure. We filled out bottles and it was good. The cows agreed.
At the summit
Near the summit is a four-kilometer (2.5 miles) stretch of 24 hairpin turns (or switchbacks). Some riders were riding in the gutter, a paved concrete section that was smoother than cobbles, but when I tried it I found I was too tired to hold a straight line. I was afraid I would hit the curb and go down. I moved back to the cobbles.
At the summit, we found a restaurant. Many people were here, not just cyclists, although there were plenty of them too. I had told Ben that when I reach the top I only wanted a Coke. Two Cokes, actually. But I saw some kids eating pasta with a meat sauce and it looked delicious. I ordered it and it was. I would have eaten a local bratwurst too except there was too long of a line.
Pasta at the top
Ben was on his phone checking train schedules and the progress of the last stage of the Tour (actually, it had not yet started so we were checking estimated times of arrival). These races publish an estimated time, a fastest expected time, and the slowest expected time.
We decided we would follow the route and ride to Hospental where the course turned left, sharply. From there we could go right (or straight) to catch our train without being on course. But it would be tight to make the train depending on how fast the Tour de Suisse was riding.
I could not miss the train. My suitcase was in my bike bag. I was sick. I wanted to be on the first flight to the U.S. tomorrow. If I missed it I might be able to go to the hotel with my bike and the clothes on my back. Tomorrow I would have to go back to the main station and retrieve my stuff then get back to the airport, where I was staying, in time for my flight. The thought of managing this was blowing my mind.
We finished eating and on the initial descent, I had hit 75 kpm (47 mph). Had I been riding and displaying miles I would have hit 50 mph. Or tried. But my mind and computer display were in kilometers. In Hospental we had found our position on the corner and waited for the Tour de Suisse to come by. After an hour, it did, with Hugh Carthy (EF-Education First) with solo breakaway and a 2:00 lead which he would hold to the end.
It was here that my bike was in the wrong gear to start, having descended in a 50:11. I decided to change gears by hand cranking the bike which is when I saw it. When I spun the wheel it went a few revolutions then stopped. The brake pad had been rubbing on the wheel. No wonder it was so hard climbing. All the jostling of bikes probably caused it but I should have checked it in Airolo.
As soon as part of the peloton had come through, we planned our escape. Ben said it would be 32 km and we had one hour. We would have to average 20 mph and would have no time for stops. That would normally be a very tough ask but we also knew the road went downhill.
However, we did not plan for a headwind – a vicious headwind. Ben did better on the climb, much better, than me but was having a problem with the wind. I took the lead most of the way and let him sit in my draft.
We went through Andermatt, a beautiful mountain town. And then for the next 20 km, the scenery just would not stop. Unfortunately, neither could I. We didn’t have time.
We were riding through Schöllenen Grorge. We saw a white water river (upper Reuss) with the glacier turquoise water blasting down through small canyons under stone arch bridges. The scenery was breathtaking. But we knew not to stop, and besides, by the time we saw the perfect place we were already 200 meters past it and would have to turn around.
Devil’s Bridge
We kept the speed up and Ben made one final check – seven km to go (4.2 miles). And we had 20 minutes. I knew an easy day I could do those in 16 minutes. Of course, we would have to get to the station and find the right track. I rattled off each K-to-go and we pulled in with 10 minutes to spare.
Old train in Wassen
Ben was worried about this train as it might be full of cyclists from earlier stops. If we missed it we would miss getting my luggage from the train station. It was a train where no reservation was needed or apparently accepted. Just first-come, first-served. Look for empty bike hooks, and we guessed right for the car.
Ben and Barry at the Airport
What a day. It was my most beautiful day on a bike. I’ve never seen anything like that from Andermatt to Wassen. And going up, wasn’t as scenic but it was epic – a 14 km climb on cobblestones. Wow!
EPILOGUE – June 25, 2019. I was at the doctor’s office and had a very bad bronchial infection. She examined me and asked if I was exhausted. I pulled out my phone and showed her Tremola Road.
“Well, two days ago I biked up this 9-mile cobblestone road in Switzerland. Then I went 24 hours without sleep.”
She replied, “I take that as a yes.”
Of the great climbs I have done, many or all call for a do-ever. But none more than this one. I was sick and weak the day I climbed this and want to go back healthy. It’s more than Strava times. The scenery from Hospental to Andermatt is beyond description. I want to ride it without worrying about a train to catch.
Sometime in the winter when I knew that Ride the Rockies would not work out for this year I decided to ride across Switzerland. across the Alps.
Freiburg
I did not want to “bikepack,” which is to carry all my clothes with me on my bike. I found and had been following the tours at BikeSwitzerland.com. They looked (and look) great but was a little more time and money than I wanted to spend.
From Thun to Sörenberg
I asked my friend, Ben Z., if he knew how I could do this self-supported and he found Eurotrek, a company based in Zürich. He sent me their contact information.
Barry Sherry with Ben
Both companies offered a self-guided tour over the Alps via Panoramic bicycle Route 4. The cost differences were significant. BikeSwitzerland offered additional days and a little extra riding from Geneva to the start in Aigle. Plus a return to Geneva.
Gondola from Sörenberg to the top of the mountain
Cost was a factor but so were logistics. BikeSwitzerland started in Geneva whereas Eurotrek started near Zürich. My base of operations would be in Zürich.
Both companies offered rental bikes. I never considered renting instead I flew with my own bike. I do not know what Eurotrek charged. But BikeSwitzerland offered my Trek Domane with Di2 shifting for 600 CHF.
Glaubenbielen Pass to Sörenberg
I booked my trip with EuroTrek. They made all hotel arrangements and transported my luggage daily from one hotel to the next, otherwise it was self-supported.
Hotel Huber in Lichensteig
I flew to Zürich. From Washington, D.C., American Airlines charged me $200 for taking the bike. Returning, the same airline charged me 84 CHF ($87.50). I have no idea why the price difference. I liked the price coming back.
American Airlines 767 from ZRH to JFK
Day 1 was from St. Margrethen to Wattwill (Lichtensteig). The course was lumpy, even mountainous. Actually it had the most climbing of the seven days although it lacked an iconic mountain pass. I did not pre-load my map to GPS and could not always follow the Rte 4 signs. I also developed saddle sores (which I never get) and feared the worse.
Umäsch, Switzerland
Day 2 was from Wattwill (Lichtensteig) to Linthal. This was the shortest day. It started with a climb (once I could find it) and ended with 30 km of flat farm roads or trails. It was the perfect remedy for saddle sores.
On the (farm) road to Linthal – Näfels, Switzerland
Day 3 was from Linthal to Beckenreid via a ferry at Gersau. It was the best day of the trip. It featured a hard climb out of the box over Klausenpass. But the rest of the day was super easy. A great descent of Klausenpass followed by the nice trail along a lake I seen before and then a ferry crossing of Lake Lucerne.
Brunen, Switzerland
Day 4 was also nice but had the opposite profile of Day 3. This one had the lake riding first and ended with a climb up the Glaubenielen Pass down into Sörenberg.
Stansstad, Switzerland
Day 5 was from Sörenberg to Thun. I began the day by riding back up the mountain to the Sörenberg tram to the mountain overlooking Interlaken. Then, given a choice of adding an extra 12 km to Thun, I took the long way. I beat my luggage arriving at the hotel then went swimming in the River Aare.
Thun, Switzerland
Day 6 was Thun to Gruyères. It felt more like a slog. I got lost in Fribourg. It was hot. Beautiful scenery but nothing breathtaking like Day 3.
Marsens, Switzerland
Day 7 was Gruyères to Montreux. Somewhere I must have missed a Route 4 turn and just took the main road over the mountain to Aigle. That was fine.
Aigle, Switzerland
And that was it. After I returned home I found out that Eurotrek had GPX files I could have downloaded to my bike computer but I did not know to ask.
Only after the trip did I realize that perhaps a solo trip across the Alps was a bit risky. I mitigated some of the risks by carrying a hand pump with a gauge and an extra tube (two, total). But a broken spoke or chain or worse, an accident, would have done me in.
As I updated my trip on Facebook I started adding Cycling Tips for Switzerland. The “numbers” were random, of course but here they are:
Tip 38 for cycling in Switzerland
(This would end in Zürich on my last day when a woman pulled an impromptu U-turn in front of me causing me to take evasive action. I did not use a finger.)
Tip #19 for cycling in SwitzerlandTip #K9 for cycling in SwitzerlandTip 29 for cycling in SwitzerlandTip #1 for cycling in Switzerland. So important that it is a rule.
Public fountain – Schwarzenburg, Switzerland
Tip #23 for cycling in Switzerland
There’s not much I would do differently. I was glad to have my own bike and starting two days after I arrived was perfect although I could have got my bike ready in one day. Well, there is one thing. I would not start on a Thursday or Friday because those days mean that Day 3, Klausenpass would be on a weekend day and I now know that is a popular “driving road” for sports cars and motorcycles.
It was a great trip which I highly recommend. And see Tip #29.
I started the morning in Nurmijärvi, Finland, not far from Helsinki. I took a flight from Helsinki to Riga, Latvia, connecting to Zürich.
Riga, Latvia
I have been watching the weather in Bormio, Italy, with my decision to be either to travel to Italy or go home early. My return flight is planned for July 3.
After I arrived I checked the weather forecast for Bormio which showed 100% chance of rain for the next three days. It was almost that same percent chance I would go home instead.
The forecast for Zürich was about the same although I didn’t have to worry about snow on the mountain. But having arrived it was a beautiful afternoon.
If I was going home, it would be on Thursday. With rain forecast for tomorrow, I will be tearing down my bike. Today will be my last time to ride in Switzerland.
City riding is not ideal but the ride around Lake Zürich is nice. But I didn’t want to circumvent the entire lake.
I loved the ferry that crosses over the lake. The price is right (CHF 3) and it is a lovely ride.
Program sold at Kiosk at the ferry
I simply went for a ride around the lake. It was beautiful.
The main road was blocked headed back to Zürich. Looked like a rich boat owner had an accident and a crane stretched across one lane of the road to lift it out of the water.
I stopped at the river and took a couple more photos. A commuter passed me and I followed her wheel which took me under the highway to the street I needed to return to Wollishofen.
Zürich – I will miss you. Except for that Barney Fife cop.
Three years ago Ben Z. and I went for a three-country ride. I asked him to come up with one again. He did.
Train station, Laufen, Switzerland
We took a train to Laufen for the start. My train ticket was 13 CHF. My bike ticket was 20 CHF. For a country that is cycle-centric, or maybe it isn’t, I think their train bike passes cost at least twice what they should be.
Welcome to France. I think. I think I can also read this sign. Speed limits in towns is 50 kph (31 mph); in the country it’s 90 kph (56 mph), and on super highways it’s 130 kph (81mph).
Laufen is near the French border of the Alsace-Lorraine region. We rode about 15 km before coming to a French sign. Ben pointed out another sign which noted that Swiss soldiers were not allowed to be on this road in uniform.
Ferrett, France
The road turned up and Ben rode ahead. We quickly established that on this day I would be first down the mountains and he would be first up. We went through some French villages although we were in the outskirts of a much bigger town, St. Louis, when I suggested we stop at a bakery.
Ferrett, France
We both got a chocolate-strawberry croissant then rode to a shade location to eat. We ended up next to a school where students were practicing a dance routine. Never quite figured out what kind of school that was.
Bakery in St. Louis, France
We found our way to the Three Country Bridge that connects France and Germany but looks at Switzerland. Close enough.
Deliciousness
Ben led us through Basel, looking for a road back to the town and the climb we did three years ago. We made some sketchy moves in traffic, i.e., probably not riding where we should have.
Three-Country Ridge
But we got through Basel and back into Germany until crossing back over at a dam on the River Rhine.
Hello Germany
It was hot, with temperatures in the low 90s. I carried two bottles and was going through those fast while Ben had just one.
Three Country Bridge that connects France and Germany
We looked for water – easier in Switzerland than France or Germany. I didn’t feel I was getting enough and I know Ben couldn’t have been.
It wasn’t all pavement today
We began the last climb which would take us over the “hill” to Sissach. It was quite a formidable climb. Ben took off and 2-3 times pulled over until I dragged my butt up to him. I was in a granny gear and wasn’t going to work any harder. Or couldn’t work any harder.
Kaiseraugst, Switzerland
But at the top Ben was lightheaded. His wife had biked up from Sissach (quite impressive actually) and he had planned lunch at a restaurant up the hill from the summit. A second summit.
Rheinfelden, Switzerland
Ben said he was so light-headed couldn’t control his bike. He rested and gathered himself and then we descended, with me being the fastest. Weight wins.
Ben
On the descent, I hit 75 kph which is 47.5 mph. Had I known I would have pushed it to 50 mph. But it was my fastest speed of the time I was in Switzerland.
Switzerland. France. Germany. It was a most excellent trip. Thanks Ben!
This was a bittersweet day. It would be a day of accomplishment but a little sadness as I knew my trip across Switzerland through the Alps would be ending. Actually, I was not sad at all.
Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland
I had a nice breakfast at the Hotel Gruyères. It was a very pleasant morning but going to be hot again.
Cheese – Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland
I sat out on the patio enjoying the cool morning weather. I had no complaints about the weather. No rain the entire trip. And really never needed arm warmers. Perfect weather.
Hotel Gruyères, Gruyères, Switzerland
The first few kilometers would be downhill as I left the hotel and then try, for the last time, to find Cycling Route 4. It started OK as I was soon on farm roads.
Train station in Gruyères
In Grand Villard I missed a turn at a traffic circle but soon corrected it as I could see my Garmin showed I was “off course.”
Grandvillard – A Farm Village
The back road took me off the main road for a while. A mostly single lane, very lightly traveled road, I even stopped to watch a fox.
Grandvillard, Switzerland
Eventually the roads would converge and I would be on the main highway.
This road kicked up to 18% but only for a short stretch. Haut-Intyamon, Switzerland
I was tired. Physically, I didn’t feel tired but perhaps skipping dinner last night or just seven days in the Alps was wearing on my decision making.
Montbovon, Switzerland
I came to a construction area and did not see a turn. Garmin soon warned me I was off course. I went back and surveyed the area. Yes, I missed the turn to Route 9. There was no way through but I hoped the main road would be parallel where I should be.
Rossinière, Switzerland
It would not occur to me until the end of my ride that I wasn’t to follow Route 9. All week I have been on Route 4 and now I confused them. I still don’t know where I should have gone.
Rossinière, Switzerland
I was comfortable following Garmin but if there was a real Route 4 I wanted to be on it. But I stayed on the main road.
Château-d’Oex, Switzerland
I came to what I knew would be my climb over my last mountain. Then I saw a sign for Route 9 to the left. Down in a valley. I followed it for 300 meters and just knew it didn’t feel right. At the point I said “screw following the sign” not even aware it was the wrong sign. The mind was tired.
Château-d’Oex, Switzerland
I thought I was on the right road but who knows. But I began the climb confident I would get to Montreux.
Château-d’Oex, Switzerland
The views were great and I had no regrets. I was passed by perhaps 30 sports cars, many of those vintage cars.
Château-d’Oex, Switzerland
At the top was a ski area. I didn’t spend much time here but instead would begin my descent to Aigle.
Château-d’Oex, Switzerland
It was a great ride down. With hairpin turns, I never could really let the bike roll but I wasn’t here for speed. (Things losers say)
Ormont-Dessus, Switzerland
I came to one snow shed and plenty of picturesque vantage points. I enjoyed the descent constantly scanning taking in the views.
Snow shed
Reaching the bottom I could see Aigle and the figurative end of my journey.
Aigle, Switzerland
I also knew I was in France. Well, not really but very close. I had thought about riding an extra 10-15 km to “end” in France (and come back) but decided I needed to keep going to my real destination in Montreux. I had a train to catch.
One of three “bikes” in Aigle I found. The other two were pink and yellow.
Beautiful vineyards on the hillside dotted the landscape. Aigle is the home of the UCI, Union of International Cyclists or Union Cycliste Internationale in French.
Those cars came down Bike Route 4
As I reached the flat section of the town I saw a sign for Route 4. Then it dawned on me I had been looking for the wrong signs. I felt fresh but I must have been tired to confuse the route signs.
The last Route 4 sign I would see. I still don’t know where the official terminus is. – Aigle, Switzerland
I saw the cars that had passed me coming off a mountain road. Route 4. The one I was supposed to be on. Oh well. I have no regrets about the route I took but wonder what I missed. And if I should go back someday.
This round portion of UCI is a velodrome – Aigle, Switzerland
I said goodbye to Route 4 and was going to head to Montreux. But I saw a sign for UCI and decided to see what it was all about. Well, it was about a building. A velodrome. I did not leave a pee sample. (But it would have been clean.)
Vineyards in Aigle, Switzerland
Since there was no longer a bike route, (it starts/ends in Aigle) I had mapped my route to Montreux. But I briefly lost my way. I started to get on Super Highway A9. Oops. I walked the bike back down the entrance ramp when I saw I could not jump the fence with my bike to an alternate road.
Veytaux, Switzerland
In Montreux I had planned to eat. Maybe to celebrate. Never really thought about dipping a wheel into Lake Geneva or lifting my bike but never had a chance. I followed a street into town, I knew I was getting near the train station and the street went under the tracks. When I emerged I was in a shopping area and saw an escalator up to the train station. I grabbed my bike, went up to ticketing, and just like that, it was over.
Which way to the UCI? – Aigle, Switzerland
Actually, it wasn’t over just like that. As I arrived ticketing I asked for my luggage and the woman didn’t know what I was talking about. But rather than create angst, I turned and there was a young man with my bag. I beat him. I pulled out money to tip him but he refused.
I knew it would be a long day and I hit the road before 8:00 a.m. for the ride out of Thun. It projected to be a lumpy ride and it certainly was. At 103 km, it was the longest day, and at 1,736 m, it would be the second most climbing.
Hotel AM Schloss
As I got ready to go outside the hotel there was a group of Chinese tourists. One by one they told their friends to come over and lift my bike. Then gave me a thumbs up.
Längerbühl, Switzerland
My plan was to follow the Bike Rte 4 signs first and the GPS I had mapped out second. And that mostly worked. Each night I looked online at Bike Rte 4 then tried to duplicate that on RideWithGPS.com and then download that to my Garmin bike computer. I didn’t always get it correct.
One of the many covered bridges on today’s ride
The first 5-6 km in Thun were pancake flat. Then, boom!, the road turned up. First I was on a small highway then Route 4 turned to a paved farm road. And it kicked up. Short but up to 18%.
At a house in the country but still near Thun
This was mostly an uneventful day. Halfway through I had a great descent out of one village – the kind you know the road is going to bottom out and kick up again. It was a great descent and beautiful forest as well.
Bike Route 4
It did. I went over a river just past an out of commission covered bridge, and entered the canton of Fribourg.
More covered bridges
Fribourg city was an adventure. I followed the signs for a while but at the top of a bridge/retaining road was a traffic circle. The way back on Rte 4 was marked with an arrow but the way forward was not. I had to choose. I chose wrongly. I guess I made a turn at the traffic circle and, in the absence of a sign, should have gone straight.
Many bridges today
Sometimes when I choose wrong, if my GPS file is showing I am parallel to where it thinks I should be going, I just keep going hoping they will come back together. It was clear I was blazing a new trail in the wrong direction.
Fribourg
I stopped at a bike shop for directions. They weren’t perfect but they got me onto the trail where eventually I picked up a sign again. In all I probably spent 30 additional minutes in Fribourg trying to pick up the scent. Maybe even longer.
MyWay Bikes
The day was mostly full of rollers. And lots (five) of covered bridges.
MyWay Bikes – These guys got me back on track
It was pretty but did not come close to matching the scenery on Day 3 going up Klausenpass to Beckenreid. And there was this one kicker near Gruyères that went up over 20% but was no more than 75 meters.
Bike Rte 4
In Gruyères I found a bakery. I got a roll and some salami and a big bottle of grapefruit soda. Then I climbed the hill to the castle. Or chalet. I didn’t know it at that time but that would be my dinner.
Lake of Gruyères
Although the man who dropped my luggage in Thun asked if it could be ready at 8:30 a.m. (instead of 9:00), I still beat my luggage to the hotel. I wasn’t going anywhere. In fact, I just took a hot shower then sat naked on my bed until my clothes arrived.
Narrow Bridge – Morlon, Switzerland
In the early evening I decided to walk down into town. Clothed. By down I mean down. Two mountain bikers were coming up that old cobbled walkway. Chapeau!
The path down into town
Although there was a restaurant in town and a few at the chateau by where I was staying, I didn’t feel like paying the high prices of dining out. The bakery closed just 15 minutes earlier. So I decided I was done eating for the day and would wait for breakfast.
Castle in Gruyères
Dining out in Switzerland is generally expensive. On my third and fourth nights I had nice dinners but at a cost of 35-40 CHF ($36-$42) each. For one.
Bakery/store in Gruyères
But last night’s meal at McDonalds (8,90 CHF) in Thun and skipping dinner tonight would be kind on the budget.
Hotel de Gruyères. Notice the jerk who hung cycling shorts in the bedroom window.
This was the only place I watched TV. Three soccer matches. Confederations Cup between Mexico and New Zealand. A friendly (I think) between Italy and Croatia and Denmark vs. Germany. Not sure those last two games were live. They may have been old but they were new to me.
Laundry night at the hotel
A good night’s sleep and I will be ready to roll in the morning.
Wengerliweg – A street/road in Mamihaus, Switzerland
The stay last night was at the Hotel Rischli. I really enjoyed it. The desk clerk, Yvonne, was very nice. She had presented me with a complimentary transportation card that I could use for the aerial tram. But I did not use it yesterday.
Hotel Rischli, Söreneberg
But first – goats. Just outside the dining patio was an enclosure of the cutest goats. They also had an enclosure of rabbits too. It made the stay more enjoyable.
Hotel Rischli, Söreneberg
Yesterday I had gone by the gondola on my descent to the hotel. When Yvonne offered the transportation card I did not feel like pedaling the 4.5 km back up the mountain. But with a great night’s sleep, I looked at it differently, one from a fresh mind. And body.
Söreneberg
The ride over to Thul was supposed to be a short one and why should I be in a hurry. I decided I would bike back up to the gondola. Slow down. Enjoy the day.
Söreneberg
I had no clue where I was in Switzerland in relationship to other landmarks but in looking at the advertisements of the region I saw they also advertised a cog railway. I realized that I took that train with [Friend] three years ago and it dawned on me that at the summit we saw a gondola come up the mountain.
A nice way to the top
I rode to the gondola, presented my comp pass, and saved 38 CHF (which was about $40). The staff at the gondola put my bike in the engine room while I rode up to the summit.
Barry in Switzerland. Overlooking Lake Brienz
It was cool being back there. This time I could look down and see the cog railway engine sputtering away bringing back pleasant memories of this trip three years earlier.
The cog railroad train on the mounatin, Lake Brienz in the background
On the ride back down on the gondola, the “conductor” made sure to point out where there were mountain goats. He asked me if we have them in the U.S. and I told him Colorado (of course other states do too).
Söreneberg
It was a quick descent back to Söreneberg and a stop at the hotel. My luggage hadn’t been picked up so I decided I would carry an extra set of clothes just in case I got to Thun before my luggage. I couldn’t imagine I would with the trip being so short and now it was after 11:00 a.m. and I hadn’t left Söreneberg.
The Alpine Slide
But first, there was time for a ride on their Alpine slide. This one was cool because the ski lift dragged the rider and sled to the top on an enclosed course. The ones I have been on all used a ski lift to carry the passenger and sleds to the top of the mountain for the slide down. But this was a fully-enclosed course in which the rider rode up the mountain (towed by a cable) before sliding back down.
The River Aare in Thun is split by an island. The swimming channel was clearly slower than the other side. But one only needed to jump in and float and be carried away. Pretty fun!
Waldemme, Switzerland
Dinner tonight was at McDonalds – 8,90 instead of 35 or 40 CHF for a real meal. My only issue was I went for WiFi and a little A/C. But it seems WiFi is available only if you have a code that will be texted to you – if you have WiFi to receive the text. Sigh.
Marbach, Switzerland
The hotel was AM Schloss. It had no A/C and only a small window over a busy street. It was pretty miserable sleeping.
