Tour de Suisse

ANDERMATT, SWITZERLAND

I love cycling. I love to ride and I love watching races. I had not planned but maybe hoped a little bit, to be in Switzerland during the eight-day-long Tour de Suisse (Tour of Switzerland). But last week my friend, Ben, told me that the Tour de Suisse would go by where I was staying.

My mind was not in a good place. My bike was missing for the third straight day even though I knew where it was at London’s Heathrow Airport because I have an Apple AirTag in the bike. But no one at British Airways gave a damn.

Unable to ride, I was now trying to enjoy the best of Switzerland without a bike. I drove the Furka Pass yesterday mainly envious of the cyclists I saw climbing it but also to see if I could find a great viewing location for today.

I saw the turn to Oberalp but did not drive up that climb. But that would be the second of three big climbs today. So today I decided to go back to Andermatt and find a spot on the climb to watch the race go by.

Leaving Andermatt just as the road turned up there was a sign marking the Green Zone. This is a designated area where riders can discard their food wrappers and bottles. What is cool is right after a feed zone, and this may have been that, where the riders get fresh bottles, they discard the used bottle by gently tossing them to the side of the road, generally towards spectators’ feet.

I thought that the Green Zone could be a good place to watch from but it was quite low on the climb. Maybe higher up would produce better memories. I kept driving.

Parking was scarce on the sides of the road but I passed a few locations where I could have stopped. Near the top before the climb plateaus to a 2-3% grade there was a camper van pulled over with four other cars. There was room for two more. I stopped.

It was chilly on the climb. I first wore a wind jacket but switched to my thermal jacket. I walked around a little but mostly sat in the car with the windows open enjoying the fresh Swiss mountain air. If Switzerland has the purest mountain water (it does) it also has the purest mountain air.

I was envious of the recreational riders pedaling the climb. Many were laboring but some were flying. Some were obviously on e-bikes which are very popular here whereas others could have been on less obvious but still e-bikes. I had some energy chews for my riding that wasn’t happening and decided I would hand those to the next three riders who passed by. I stood at the road as a guy came by and held a pack for him to grab. He completely ignored me. I didn’t try a second rider. I needed my food more anyhow.

Across the road from us at this intersection two team cars parked. One was from Arkea-Sampson and the other was BORA-Hansgrove. Both drivers wore team colors or put on a team vest. They prepared water bottles and would hand their riders a drink bottle as they rode by. The BORA soigneur saw two riders coming up the road including a young woman wearing a full BORA cycling kit. He held out a fresh water bottle for her and then pushed her butt up the road. I think he really just wanted to touch her butt.

The television coverage of this race was not wall-to-wall (start-to-finish). Basically, there would be coverage for the final two hours which meant that the race would pass by my location before coverage started. I have the GCN+ app on my phone and would have liked to watch the race to know where the riders were and what was happening.

Instead, I went to the procyclingstats website and could find text coverage. I knew where they were on course and who was in the breakaway.

One hour and 15 minutes ahead of the race the publicity caravan came by. In the Tour de France this is an exciting part of spectating as many vehicles, mostly large trucks decorated as floats come by and people would throw items to the crowd. Not so for this caravan. There were maybe 10 cars total and each one would slow to a crawl if not stop to hand out items.

I got a bamboo paper fan, many pieces of mint gum, a tiny pack of gummy chews, a little drink bottle, a can of soft drink, and a box of pre-made cabbage salads. That last one is staying in Switzerland.

With TV coverage, you can hear the helicopter overhead when the race was near. Without thinking about it I expected to hear a race helicopter but there would be none. It was a TV helicopter after all.

There was a parade of policemen on motorbikes passed by and we knew the race was close by. I was at the edge of a hill and could see switchbacks below.

And we have an Alpenhorn. One of the guys, maybe in the camper van, brought out his Alpenhorn to serenade the riders as they passed. He only played for the riders, that is, he did not play the horn unless riders were present.

The breakaway group was composed of 19 riders. I knew two Americans were in the bunch, Quinn Simmons (Trek-Segafredo) and Nielsen Powless (EF-Education Frst-Easy Post). As they got in front of me I stopped taking photos and became a fan/supporter.

They were both recognizable and I called them out by name. I suspect they heard their names and hoped it gave them some encouragement.

The breakaway group had a lead of two minutes over the peloton. This group had the yellow jersey wearer and also Swiss star Gino Mäder as well as American Magnus Sheffield.

Thanks to the technology of time stamping photos I can say the breakaway group went past my location at 12:42 followed by the main peloton two minutes later at 12:44. A solo rider from Bahrain Victorius “in the cars” came by at 12:46.

The last rider, followed by the broom wagon, or Besenwegen, was French rider Louis Barré, of the Arkea team. He was heavily bandaged and it was unclear whether that was from a crash today or yesterday. He was relaxed and calmly stopped and dismounted. The soigneur took his bike and removed the front wheel to put the bike in the car. The rider took a Coke and then climbed into the front seat.

The end of the race went by followed by what appeared to be regular traffic following the Tour up the road. The Arkea car looked to be having a problem pulling out into traffic so I stepped into traffic and held it up so they could leave. Probably not culturally appropriate and maybe even illegal. Oh well. I looked at Louis Barré and gave him a thumbs up. He smiled and gave me thumbs-up as well.

I was headed to the summit and followed the cars. It didn’t feel like the peloton had gone by that long ago and expected to slow down as we caught the back of them. It never happened. These guys go faster than you think.

I reached the lake and the world’s highest lighthouse. I checked my maps and decided to turn around to head back to the Hotel Searausch in Beckereid, my hotel for the evening.

Perhaps 90 minutes later, Gino Mäder (SUI) and Magnus Sheffield (USA) crashed. Since they were “behind the race” this was not immediately reported on. There were no media with them to see them go down.

Unbeknownst to followers, both Gino and Magnus went off the road into a ravine. While Magnus would crash out with a concussion, Gino would be airlifted to the hospital in Chur. It was reported later that he was found in water and was resuscitated. The Tour was notified of his death at 11:30 the next morning.

Stage 6 would be neutralized and only the last 20 km would be ridden in a silent procession.

I surely have one of the last photos ever taken of Gino Mäder.

I love cycling and recognize that it is inherently dangerous to balance on two wheels and sometimes in traffic. But to think that Gino and the peloton passed in front of me and 90 minutes later would die, left me shaken.

Rest in peace, Gino.