it looked like a nice ride so I thought about this 40-mile loop for a few weeks now. I have never been to Marco Island so this was my chance – perhaps my only chance.
Bike path – looks like a sidewalk, but it’s not
I used a ride done by my friend, Joe, a few weeks ago. I parked in a shopping center by a Publix grocery store. I headed west planning to be on street but it had no shoulders and no bike lane. Next to it was a concrete path that looked like a bike path. I followed it for a half-mile until I turned into a residential area and took streets until I reached Collier Blvd.
Collier Blvd bike lane
Collier is a six-lane highway which is very busy. It does have a separate bike lane which is separated from 50 mph traffic by five inches of paint. But it’s white paint so that must have protective qualities.
On Marco Island
The next 4.5 miles to Marco Island, I flew, I was hitting speeds of 30 mph and averaged 24 mph for the segment. That could only mean one thing. Tailwind.
Marco Island
On Marco Island, I was mostly in traffic lanes. I didn’t find over-courteous or rude drivers. Just drivers. They were fine. I was fine. We got along.
I followed the southern route out of town. It took me over the Stan Gober bridge and then it was a 55-mph two-lane highway. Joe told me it was straight and the traffic was used to seeing cyclists. While I was the only cyclist I saw today, at no time did I feel unsafe or had any cars pass without giving a wide berth. And I was also going into a brutal headwind. My trip to Marco was a gift. This was the work.
Stan Gober Bridge
For the next 12 miles, I only averaged 14.6 mph. It was tough work. I saw a number of signs for “Buddy,” a dog missing in the area since Feb. 11 (a month now). Breaks your heart. I sure hope Buddy was reunited at his home.
On the down side of the Gober
I turned on Highway 41 North and, to my surprise, saw a pretty nice bike path next to the highway. It would only last 2.3 miles. But I crossed over the highway and picked up a bike lane. I would ride the bike lane six miles to my turn back into the neighborhood. I also picked up a cross tailwind. It helped. I averaged 20 mph in this section.
View off the Gober bridge
Not all cyclists are comfortable riding on the road, like I did leaving Marco, or in a bike lane that is on Hwy 41. You have to trust, and hope, and pray, that no one is distracted and they stay in their lane and don’t drift. It’s not my favorite place to ride but I would not necessarily avoid it.
Bike lane on Hwy 41
The last five miles were back into the headwind. And my speed dropped to 14.9 for the segment. Arriving back I had covered 41 miles at a speed of 17.9 mph. I was hoping for 18 but with the winds, this wasn’t too bad. My winter rides were often 11-12 miles and even though I rode at Hilton Head last week, it wasn’t far and wasn’t at speed. So this was a jump. A huge jump. I’m happy.
Distance: 41 miles Average speed: 18 mph (RideWithGPS) Max speed: 37.8 mph Weight: 172
I must say, that was quite an experience. I went to Shark Valley in the Everglades with not much in the way of expectations.
My Lifetime Senior pass got me right in and avoided a $30 (vehicle) or $15 (bicycle) fee.
The tram/bike path
The parking lot was pretty full but I found a space. Got my bike out and was ready to roll in a few minutes. I saw a park ranger and asked if I should ride the loop clockwise or counterclockwise. He said it was better to ride it counter-clockwise.
Just a teenager
The trail is one vehicle width wide. Just large enough for the park’s tram tours to get by. There is a sign that cyclists must pull over from trams to pass. Since they were going clockwise, it was easy to see them. While I was on the trail there were two trams that came by. I dismounted, stood gingerly off the road always carefully watching my feet for any activity that may be lurking nearby. Both times the tram operator gave me a big thumbs up.
A couple youngsters
It was within the firsr quarter-mile that I saw my first gator – just relaxing just off the road to my right. Alligators could be and were anywhere. Left side or right side. Just riding along with my head on a swivel, there were gators on both sides.
Pedal fast to get by – tram coming in the distance
And none were moving. They seemed completely disinterested in this cyclist. Perhaps adult humans were too big to attack, at least on land. In the water would be a different story but not going in there.
I passed a nest, if it was called that. A momma gator had perhaps 30 little ones with her. I wasn’t real sure that she might be aggressive. In fact, the National Park Service put out yellow tape near her nest so she was easy to find but at the same time let people know to keep their distance.
The observation deck
Most of the alligators I saw were in the first seven miles to Shark Valley and the observation deck. People could hike (walk) that far but the two most common ways were to take the tram or bike. As of this writing, the tram rates were $27 for adults and $14 for children. Bike rentals were $20.
Alligator to the right
Actually, the first three miles probably contained the most alligators. But this will vary depending on the season and water level. People willing to walk in for about two miles then turn around would have seen plenty.
Big white birds. I suspect this is the Wood Stork.
I made the turn back at the observation deck. There were few travelers in this section although a park ranger came from the other direction. She was on a bike and not wearing a mask. All federal properties including national parks were under a mandatory mask requirement and only about the rangers wore them and probably 20% of the visitors. I suspect it was a requirement on the tram though.
Vultures. These two did not flinch as I rode by.
But what fun. Just riding along and there’s an alligator. Or two. Or twenty. Definitely a bucket list trip. Try it. It’s fun!
Two years ago I rode in Luxembourg with Rooster Racing. One of our riders was Margaret O. from Naples, Florida. When I told her I would be in the area she told me about the Bike and Brunch ride sponsored by the Naples Pathways Coalition. I registered and we met at Lowdermilk Park in Naples, the start/finish location for the ride.
Barry and Joe
Before I connected with Margaret, I found Joe B., who I worked with in Washington, D.C. We had a brief conversation and then left in our respective ride groups.
Naples Pier
We started in neighborhoods and Margaret found (for me) our first impromptu rest stop – at the pier in Naples. After a break we rode off, Margaret giving me a tour of the neighborhoods.
First Rest Stop
We stopped at the first rest stop at a community center around Mile 20. Once we left there we started off into long straight roads, generally with a bike lane next to a 45-50 mph highway.
Concession stand at Lowdermilk Park
The winds were strong. It seemed they were always at an angle so we never got the benefit of a true headwind. Our second stop was set up by a gas station and was manned by some very nice high school students.
Rest Stop 2
Arriving back the organizers had some chips and salsa from Moe’s (a sponsor). That was unexpected in these COVID times – we did not expect anything. We sat on the patio at the concession stand enjoying the 75° weather, reminiscing about our trip two years ago to Luxembourg.
I saw an eagle
It was Roosters Reunited for another day.
Barry and Margaret
After the ride I decided that I would retire (discard) the Rooster Racing bib shorts. Although they don’t look bad in the photo, they wore horribly worn and see-thru (on the thighs). And when I got back to the hotel, a woman who had been with a number of bike racers today, told me that I looked like a bike racer. Sweet!
We came with the family for a week at Hilton Head Island. And I came to ride my bike (also).
On one hand, Hilton Head is perhaps one of the most bicycle-friendly communities in the country. They tout the miles of bike paths they have – which is true. But it also one of the worst places to be a cyclist.
Coligny Beach on Hilton Head
Many of the roads and streets on Hilton Head have adjoining bike paths which, depending where you are, cyclists are encouraged or required to use. They’re nice – for going 8 mph.
Bike path on Hilton Head
I rode many which were rooted (had tree roots underneath the asphalt which created a dangerous bump), were partially combined with a sidewalk and had a dangerous seam between the two, and way too many at grade crossings with streets. At every intersection while waiting to cross not one single vehicle stopped to allow me or others to cross.
Coligny Beach at Hilton Head
In addition, because riding bikes is popular, one must share the paths with kids on training wheels, walkers, runners, and dogs. Also, few are straight and run exactly parallel to the street they belong but wind and curve around trees and other dangerous obstacles.
Bike path on Hilton Head
If you are a cyclist, like I am, and cycling is your primary form of cardio exercise, one will not get the heart rate up if you ride sensibly on the bike paths which you should. One must ride on the street. And this is frowned upon by all those who drive vehicles.
Harbour Town
Somewhere there must exist one sign on the island that says SHARE THE ROAD but I never saw one. Bicycles simply don’t belong (except on bike trails).
Rooted paths
No where was this more evident that at Sea Pines Plantation. SPP is at the southern end of the island and is where Harbour Town and the lighthouse are located.
The Bike Doctor
The first day I was going to ride to the lighthouse I came to a control gate. The guard told me it was $9 and I decided not to pay it, electing to turn around instead. I was not told I was not permitted. But the next day I decided I would pay the fee. This time the guard told me that bikes were not allowed to enter unless they were in/on a car.
I could ride to within 50 yards of the gate, have my car meet me, put the bike in the car, drive through the gate and unload the bike, and that would be OK. The automobile is king here.
Bike gate leaving Sea Pines – that code probably no longer works
While I was being turned away at the gate, a lovely couple rode through the bicycle gate and signaled me over. I went while they held open the gate. I was in. I saved $9 and rode to the lighthouse.
I saw the lighthouse. For free.
While at SPP a security guard told me that I was not allowed to ride on the road because it’s a rule in Sea Pines. Is it a rule or the law? The best I can tell is that SPP is private property and they can make and enforce “rules” for their property although enforcement probably would not entail fines. Not sure what powers they have other then to require someone to leave.
Couple who left me in. Thanks!
South Carolina Law (SECTION 56-5-3425.) requires bikes to ride in a bike lane next to the roadway if one is provided (except to pass). And then, this: “bicyclists may ride on the roadway when there is only an adjacent recreational bicycle path available instead of a bicycle lane.”
Unless there is a local “law,” there is no requirement that cyclists have to be on those crooked recreational bike paths. But there are 1,000 Karens on the island who think and will tell you differently.
One of the straighter sections of bike path
Arriving at our rental house, I took off on a mixture of bike paths and roadway (side streets, not main roads). The weather was cool and rainy so I did not ride far but on my second day I saw I had four new PRs (compared to the day before). And that became my goal: see how far and fast I could ride.
At a minimum, I set out to be #1 age group on all four. On the first day I was out of the Top Ten Age Group on all. And I went. And I won. Number One on all four segments near the house. That was fun and gave me something to aim for.
First Age Group and Seventh Overall on Dillon Springs
Besides the Dillon Springs segment, I had the age group #1 on ay Carrabba’s (0:51 – old was 1:06); Beach City to Dillon (2:52-3:01); Reverse Folly Sprint (0:54-0:58).
So it was a fun week of riding. Except for the streets near our beach house, most were on the bike paths and would have been fun for a slow roll with the grandkids – but not at a pace to get the heart rate up. I suspect the best riding was back over the bridge around Bluffton on some country roads.
There were some flooded streets
Another indicator that this place is not a mecca for cyclists was my adventure in trying to buy an insulated Camelbak Polartek water bottle. There are many bike “shops” on the island but most, if not all, cater to the rental business. Much like my experience on Sanibel Island trying to buy a tube, the bike shops did not carry this simply accessory. I rode to the Bike Doctor and they did not carry it. A driver from Hilton Head Island Bicycles had pulled over so I asked him if his shop carried it and he said they did not. I stopped at Wheelz of Hilton Head as I rode by. While they didn’t have a 21 oz Camelbak, they did have a 24 oz. Polartek. I took it. Since most shops are rental locations, road cyclists should make sure they bring every thing they need and not simple able to purchase it on the island.
Wheelz on Hilton Head. Beautiful building and nice staff.
We had a good week. I saw an alligator on one ride and ended up in a helicopter on another. It’s a fun place for most people to ride but serious cyclists may be a little frustrated here..
This was farther south than I had planned, some two hours from my hotel in Sarasota. But you’re only here once, or here once to ride, so I came to check it out.
Parking at Port Sanibel Marina
I found a state park nearby where I could park but remembered the one on Amelia Island and there would be a fee. I didn’t want to pay to park and didn’t want to pay to drive across the causeway. And I found the Port Sanibel Marina one mile before the causeway. There was plenty of parking and it was free.
Parking at Port Sanibel Marina
I had read a discussion on whether it’s safe to ride across the causeway. Cyclists generally said yes – there is a bike lane next to the main traffic. People who ride bikes generally said no – there is a bike lane but it’s next to the main traffic. The bottom line depended on what level of risk one was willing to assume.
A view from the causeway
I went through, or around the toll both and started the climb up the first bridge of the causeway. That too caused some people angst in deciding whether to ride the causeway. “You know the bridge is a hill…”
Toll booth at Sanibel Island
It was a nice ride across two islands, named A and B, on the causeway. Although Sanibel proudly boasts 20 miles of bike paths away from traffic, once I reached the island I saw slow, helmet-less riders on the trails. And while pretty, the bike paths had a lot of twists and turns. I stayed on the main road and only angered one person – a driver from Indiana laid on his horn as he passed me. Then I caught him.
I had come to an intersection and found a cyclist waiting for his partner. He wore a helmet and a full kit. I asked him about riding on the roads and it said it was legal but then he recommended as I got close to Captiva to take a path because the road narrowed and “the drivers got older.”
Narrow path approaching Captiva
I followed his suggestion and found the path was very narrow, perhaps the most narrow path I had ever been on. I crossed a bridge to get on Captiva Island and didn’t realize it.
Bike path on Sanibel
Things were going well. My speed was up. The temperature was great. And then, the tell-tell sign of a squishy tire. Ugh.
Embedded glass in the tire
I pulled over not confident in my ability to repair the tire. I pulled the wheel off the bike and was looking at a man who had brought his trash out to a bin. He asked me if I needed anything and I told him a floor pump. He said he’d be right back and did come back with a pump.
It was a rough day
While working on the tire I had cut myself. Blood was coming pretty good. I had my repair kit on a small log. I picked it up without realizing it was covered by ants. I saw black spots on my hands and realized the ants attacked me. They were biting and may have been drawn to my blood.
CW on the right
Unfortunately, the pump did work as advertised. But the man, “CW,” also told me if it didn’t work to come to his house because he had a truck and would take me anywhere. I went to his house. I threw the bike in the back and I declined his offer to take me to his car, instead opting for the closest bike shop, Finnimore’s Bike and Beach Rentals.
Fennimore’s Rent-a-Bike
We pulled in and I was able to borrow a pump while CW and one of the employees, maybe the owner, enjoyed seeing each other. I pumped up the tire and he told me to take it for a spin to make sure it held. CW drove away. I went 20 meters and the tire was squishy.
Removing the platform pedals from the Fuji for me to ride
I removed the tire and tube and found embedded glass in the tire. Being a rental shop they didn’t have much in supplies but sold me a 700×35 (35-42) for my 32 tire. I installed it but the stem was too short to attach a pump. I was screwed.
My ride back to the car
The shop gave me one of their rentals to ride back to my bike. They had a heck of a time removing the platform pedals so I could put my pedals on the bike since I was wearing Speedplay cleats. But they got them off the bike and I moved my Speedplay pedals over to the Fuji.
The Sanibel causeway
It was a nice ride back across the causeway. I got back to my car and then drove through the toll booth that I tried to avoid.
Causeway leaving Sanibel approaching the toll both (no toll leaving)
It wasn’t the ride I was hoping for. But I found the goodness of man. CW giving me a ride to the shop. The shop ultimately giving me one of their rentals to ride back to my car. There are good people out there.
Causeway
It wasn’t the best ride but I did set a new PR for mileage in a year (10,150+ miles / 16,335 kms)
The ride was paused in Captiva and the Wahoo turned off at the bike shop but still shows the airmiles back to the shop. But the data is correct.
DISTANCE: 25 miles SPEED: Almost 18 mph WEIGHT: 168
EPILOGUE – It’s hard to think straight under pressure. With a tube that could not be repaired (but did they have a patch kit to sell? I don’t know), we decided it was best to take their bike, ride it across the causeway to my car, then drive back.
I had everything I needed for a repair in my car. If I could do it over again, I would have ridden to my car, grabbed a new tube (and maybe a new tire as well), returned to Finnimore’s, and then change out the old and ride from there. Oh well, it was getting late in the day and I didn’t arrive in Clermont for the night until 7:00 p.m. so the car option was probably best. It’s just that I never thought of picking up a new tube/tire from my car.
A late fall / early winter getaway to bring my mother to Florida gave me a chance to ride in the Tampa area. I chose Sarasota as it was close to my friend, John’s, place.
Sarasota
I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn – Bradenton-Sarasota Airport. I researched some routes and found a 50-mile loop ride of Sarasota. When John and I discussed routes he said he could meet me at the hotel for a 40-mile loop. I hoped to do the 50-mile ride but would go with the local knowledge.
Bike path to Sarasota
It was 70° when we were ready to roll out at 10:00 a.m. Sunny, I applied sunscreen and we were off through the campus of the University of South Florida. We took a bike path, briefly, then followed side streets to downtown Sarasota.
Sarasota
We rolled slowly through the downtown area. John had a Christmas music playlist and a portable speaker and was playing (blasting?) Christmas music and was wishing people a Merry Christmas as we rode.
John in Sarasota
We crossed the high bridge over Sarasota Bay. John kept the pace high over the bridge. It wasn’t difficult but I didn’t feel like having a nice easy conversation either. I’m not suggesting he was trying to drop me but no worries, I matched his pace side by side to the top.
Bridge over Sarasota Bay
Once over the bridge we visited Lido Key before crossing another bridge to Longboat Key. We slipped into a couple private communities just to ride on quiet streets away from the busy traffic which was on this key.
View from the bridge
We crossed another bridge onto Anna Marie Island and Bradenton Beach. John proudly showed me the (Green Bay) Packers Bar. We stopped in briefly at his place. He grabbed me an energy bar from his fridge which was appreciated. With one bottle on the bike – I needed to ask for a refill and didn’t, I would need energy today.
Manatee in the foreground
We left the island via a causeway back across Sarasota Bay to Bradenton. We tried to avoid the main roads but a couple of times had to jump on US 41 which was very busy. The first mile was trash. Three lanes and no bike lane. After that dangerous mile, we came to the “bike” lane which is a small strip next to the main road’s three lanes separated by 5″ of white paint.
New house being built on the bay
But John and I made it safely back to the hotel. He had asked me the mileage earlier and I wasn’t displaying it. As we got close I looked and asked him if he wanted to know. He agreed and I told him it was a lot more than 40. At that time we were at 52 miles. We arrived back at 54 and change and John wanted to ride to get to 55.
Downtown Sarastoa
Once he left and headed back to downtown Sarasota. I wasn’t sure how far it was but it was farther than I thought. I turned around knowing I would have finished 100 km and ended with 103 km (64 miles).
Boats in the bay
Sun. Water. Friendship. It doesn’t get better.
DISTANCE: 64 miles SPEED: 14.5 mph (we toured a lot on slow streets) WEIGHT: 165
It was cold. It was 32° (freezing – 0° C) as I rolled out. I trusted my phone app to find parking and a trailhead. It was an open area but there were a few trucks from the Indiana County Parks department working in the area. There was a sign: Property of Devine Destiny Ministries – Park at Your Own Risk.
Parking at the Hoodlebug Trail in Indiana
It was perhaps 50 yards on an access trail to reach the actual Hoodlebug Trail. The trail follows the rail line of the Indiana Branch of the Pennsylvania Railroad, an 1850s line that ran from Blairsville to Indiana. Single self-propelled cars ran on this line into the 1940s. Called Doodlebugs, or locally, Hoodlebugs, it became the nickname for this line.
The trail runs 12 miles from Indiana to Black Lick and connects with the Ghost Town Trail. Because of the cold, I planned to ride five miles out and back or 10 miles total.
One can see US 119 in the background
At the access trail I didn’t see a sign, not that there wasn’t any. There were men working on the trail on their truck may have blocked the view.
Crossing Yellow Creek
It was gray without a hint of sunshine. I had no idea which direction was anything. I headed right which turned out to be south towards Black Lick. The trail is parallel to US 119 so despite a wilderness feel at times, I was never far from the din of the highway.
Yellow Creek
I crossed the Stoney, Two Lick, and Yellow Creeks. In Homer City the trail ended briefly and followed a two-block work around (not a detour because this is permanent). I had gone a little more than five miles and decided a turnaround was in order. Ten miles would be good enough today.
In Indiana – Rose Street
When I got back to the access trail, at a little more than 10 miles, I decided to continue north to see where the trail would lead. IUP is where. The trail cuts through the Indiana University of Pennyslvania (IUP) on the street. Before reaching IUP the trail was paved with emergency call boxes every 100 yards or so.
Snow covered bridge
I am much more comfortable on a trail with no improvements than I am on an improved trail with emergency call boxes. Nothing says danger more than the need for these call boxes. I imagine this section is also used as a night walk on campus.
Trail at IUP – Maple Street
I followed the trail on street for a while but wasn’t sure how much farther it went. Nor did I need to find out. I turned around while on the IUP campus and headed back.
Underpass
The trail is crushed gravel. It was a good riding surface. But there was nothing structural or natural as big attractions. It’s a nice trail and maybe the perfect length for some riders. I would not make this a destination trip but I was already in Indiana so this was the perfect ride on this day. Except for the cold.
Mayberry. The home of Sheriff Andy Taylor. Aunt Bee. Opie. All on the Andy Griffith show. Andy Griffith grew up here in Mount Airy and I came for a bike ride. I had no expectations and had done very little research. I just arrived.
Downtown Mount Airy
My ride was planned from Mount Airy, Riverside Park, to the famous Mabry Mill on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I found a ride on RidewithGPS by user, Adrian, and downloaded it to my Wahoo bike computer. Adrian elected to keep his profile private so I cannot publicly thank him for the suggestion.
At the Hampton Inn, Mount Airy
Although I was to ride north out of town, I was close to Main Street and started out by going into downtown Mount Airy. That is by going UP into downtown. It was quite a sizeable climb although probably no more than a quarter-mile.
Downtown Mount Airy
The downtown was only a few blocks long but was very vibrant. Not so much at 9:00 a.m. but by 1:30 p.m. it was teeming with people. It was hard to see an empty parking space. Many of the store fronts had a Mayberry theme from Floyd’s Barber Shop to Barney’s Cafe.
Barney’s Cafe
Although I should have headed out of town then I swung by my car to pick up some cycling food (gels) which I had forgotten to put in my pockets. And then I headed north.
Floyd’s Barber Shop
It was eight miles on a two-lane road, no shoulders, to the Virginia state line. And then it was about four miles to the turn up the mountain. The course profile was not complicated. Go straight until Rte 614, Squirrel Spur Road. Then turn left and be prepared for climbing. What a great road this was.
Going north – Virginia state sign. There was no North Carolina sign going south.
It was six miles to Blue Ridge Parkway and three of that was on a steep portion with switchbacks. The pavement was good but there weren’t many great vistas. But at one, on a sharp curve, there was a picnic area. I really enjoyed this climb.
Rough surface on the BRP
I came to the Blue Ridge Parkway and jumped on it. I left behind the beautiful pavement of Squirrel Spur Road and picked up a very rough chip and seal road on the parkway. It was quite rough. Not potholes, but just a rough-riding surface. Or a “heavy” road in cycling terms.
At U.S. Rte 59 in Meadows of Dan
The parkway is a two-lane road, signed for 45 mph, so no traffic takes it for speed. On a chilly November morning, there were only a handful of cars that passed me in either direction.
Only yesterday in a weak attempt at “research,” I read that Mabry Mill closed for the season five days ago. Was it worth riding to it if it wasn’t open? I decided it was. I could still get a photo op and would not take advantage of the amenities like a gift shop.
After a brief stop, I would have normally just retraced my route since this wasn’t a loop ride but an out-and-back (or an up-and-down). But in the tiny hamlet of Meadows of Dan I followed the Wahoo and took the Squirrel Spur Road which is parallel to the parkway. I was greeted with beautiful pavement instead of the rough chip and seal on the parkway. I was also greeted with screaming downhills and leg-killing uphills. The parkway would have been easier, much easier, but in tourist season this alternative makes sense. Today, I wish I would have stayed on the parkway.
Mabry Mill – the non-photographed angle
The descent down Squirrel Spur Road through the switchbacks was great. But I was facing a pretty strong headwind. I was also running on empty. The climb up Mount Mitchell yesterday left me a little tired. And while I remembered to stop at the car in Mount Airy for food, I forgot my Skratch drink mix for my water bottle and was only drinking water.
Downtown Mount Airy
Uncharacteristically, I changed Wahoo to display miles to go on the computer. And I was counting them down. When I reached zero I decided I would go to Barney’s Cafe for a quick bite before my long drive home. It would have so much easier to go through a drive-through anywhere and get food to eat in the car. But I was in Mayberry and that deserved to sample the local cuisine and atmosphere.
Downtown Mount Airy
It was a good ride. But with yesterday’s effort, I was tired.
Barney’s for lunch
Distance: 53 miles Average Speed: 13.2 mph Weight: 167
Our friends from Colorado scoff at the tiny mountains in the east. With 58 mountain peaks over 14,000 feet (4,267 m), they certainly have that right. But it’s not all elevation. Some of it’s elevation gain.
Parking at Dollar General
Mount Mitchell stands at 6,683 feet (2,037 m) above sea level. The elevation gain on this 24-mile climb is 6,076 feet. By contrast, Mount Evans, Colorado, which I have ridden up twice, stands at 14,272 feet, climbs 6,772 feet from Idaho Springs (elevation 7,500′) over 28 miles. So scoff if one must, but it’s not much difference. Well, if you ignore altitude (which you can’t).
Start of Rte 80 in Marion, NC
Mount Washington, New Hampshire is the highest peak in the northeast U.S. at 6,289 feet. Most of the elevation gain on that mountain is on the 7.5-mile auto road giving it an average grade of 12%. Beast!
Lake Tahoma, Marion, N.C.
Mount Mitchell was a bucket list climb for me. Consistently listed as one of the best or hardest in the U.S., I never made it a destination. With 2020 being the year of the Corona Virus and all my cycling events canceled, I decided to make my own adventure.
Lake Tahoma
I had hoped for a mid-October day but that did not work out. So I found myself in November driving to Statesville, North Carolina, where I spent the night then drove to Marion for the climb up the mountain. While on I-40 I crested a hill and had my first look at THOSE mountains. Ugh. It was reminiscent of seeing the White Mountains in New Hampshire and realizing I was signed up to race up Mount Washington.
I-40 on the way to Marion – first look at the mountains
But I would not be racing up Mount Mitchell. Just a ride. And the first order of the day was to find a place to park. The climb starts at the edge of Lake Tahoma but there is no parking to be found around the lake. So, generally, one must park about four miles away. There is a small area at the intersection of Routes 70 and 80 but I saw a Dollar General nearby and asked them if I could park there. And they agreed.
The first four miles were basically flat. Then I came to the dam at Lake Tahoma. This dam almost failed two years ago and all residents downstream were ordered to evacuate. But thankfully, it held. There are some beautiful homes around the lake.
Rte 80
At the end of the lake where the creek flows into the lake is where the climb to Mount Mitchell begins. This is on Rte 80 which is a narrow road with no shoulders. Today it was lightly traveled and all drivers were respectful.
Rte 80 passes under the Blue Ridge Parkway
The views were wonderful if you like a forest view. That is to say, there are no vistas to see for miles because this climb of 10 miles to the Blue Ridge Parkway is in a forest. But it sure is pretty. There is a river or creek flowing for part of it and it’s soothing to see it and to hear it. The switchbacks in the last mile are absolutely delicious.
Twin Tunnels
I was thinking “this isn’t so hard.” Then again, I never tried to go fast, and if I saw something of interest I stopped and took a photo. I reached the Blue Ridge Parkway and stopped long enough to remove my leg warmers. It was a cool day and I had unzipped my vest and was sweating.
The road kept climbing. I went through three small tunnels. I hadn’t studied the course enough to know where but I knew there was a one-half mile descent and a two-mile descent on the route.
One of the nice vistas
The road to Mount Mitchell State Park is a four-mile climb off the Blue Ridge Parkway. It seemed to be harder than the rest of the climb and it was. I wasn’t sure if it was because I was getting tired or if it was steeper. And it was the latter. Maybe the former too.
The turn off the Parkway begins a four-mile climb to the summit
It was a beautiful sunny day but I also some ice in areas normally shaded from the Fall sun. And as I was climbing the smell of Balsam and I thought sorry for those who drove and missed out on the smells.
There’s ice in them thar hills
When I reached the summit I saw just a few cars in the parking lot. I had been here before – in 1963 – and knew the photo showed my siblings and me in front of a tower at the summit. And it wasn’t here. I circled the lot and saw a trail or walkway to the actual summit.
The path at the summit leads down to the parking lot
It looked like a stone walk but was probably pressed concrete. I expected to see a NO BIKES sign but did not. Maybe I didn’t look hard enough. And in-season, no sane cyclist would ride on this path crowded with tourists. But I saw no one.
So I started up the path. And it was steep. My guess was 15-18%. Halfway up were some benches and a brief flat section. I looked up and the path kept going. And so did I. I turned the corner and saw the sign. I had made it. And there were seven people at the summit – four by the sign and three walking up the observation deck. And they all starting cheering me. “You made it!”
I probably shouldn’t have ridden my bike up there. Sorry. But I don’t think I could have walked up in cycling shoes and I needed to get there. I’m thankful I went on a November day after all.
Fifty-seven years earlier – Barry in light blue
Distance: 56 miles Average Speed: 11.8 mph Weight: 167
A search of trails in the area landed me at the American Tobacco Trail. This is a 22-mile trail (15 miles are paved) starting at the American Tobacco Company in Durham, right next to the ballpark for the Durham Bulls. From there the trail heads south to Cary.
The trail loosely follows a rail line that was built in the 1970s for the American Tobacco Company. In the 1980s it was shut down. That wasn’t a good investment.
Parked at Solite Park
My first order of business was to find parking. There is parking in Durham at the trailhead as it is a shopping and entertainment district. Despite the offer of free parking for two hours, it necessitated downloading a parking app for my phone which I didn’t want to be bothered with. And I didn’t know if I would take more than two hours.
I looked for locations south of the city and found Solite Park. There was a playground and the parking lot was almost full. It looked safe enough. In preparation for this ride, there seemed to be a lot of safety questions on the reviews on TripAdvisor. Someone smarter than me can research this but this rail line divided neighborhoods, i.e., the wrong side of the tracks. But I was oblivious to that history and just rode my bike.
The ATT on a sidewalk
Solie Park was located at MP 4.5. It ad restrooms and a water fountain. I headed south on the trail. I was expecting rail trail – straight and level. However, as I would soon learn, in this section it was part sidewalk and often turned where one would not expect. Keep the eyes open for turns.
A family enjoying the trail
The bridge over Interstate-40 was pretty cool. It had its own contour instead of being a flat bridge. For this user, it was pretty awesome.
Bridge over I-40
Around Mile 8 I seemed to come to the real rail-trail portion of the trail. Straight and flat. Not real sure of the location except it’s the Huntington Ridge section of Durham. It’s really a one-mile section where one is seemingly on sidewalks and has the feeling of an urban trail rather than following a former rail bed. This often happens that development takes place after removal of tracks and before a rail trail is created. These detours are a minor inconvenience compared to having use of a 20-mile trail.
Mile markers were provided every quarter-mile which was very cool. At 14.5 the trail turned to gravel so I turned around.
Mile markers mark every quarter mile
The city of Cary had a nice lot at New Hope Church Road and if I ever rode this again I would come to this lot. There were also restrooms here as well. The trail has more restrooms and water fountains than any I have been on.
New Hope Church Road Trailhead Park, Cary
When I arrived back to my car I saw the trail was closed for a detour. It wasn’t a new discovery as I had driven through a construction zone to park there. It was part of the reason I started my ride heading south as I could navigate the detour later. The parking lot was almost empty. I wanted to ride the 4.5 miles into Durham but was concerned this was one of the high crime areas that I had read about (one user said police were making more patrols).
Sorry folks
But when I got to the main street (Fayetteville Road) to follow the detour, I was lost. I could not find the detour, and not being from the area, didn’t really know where to go to pick it up. I wasn’t about to set out on a trail that wasn’t well-marked. I put my bike in my car and drove 1/4 mile where I saw the end of the trail detour was. From there I parked and rode the rest of the way into Durham.
Trailhead at New Hope Church Road, Cary
As I got close to Durham, I went across at least three, and maybe four, bridges or trestles with great rickety boards. They really made a racket. The closer to Durham the louder the bridge that I rode across. This was awesome, actually.
You can see downtown
The downside was around Mile 2 I went through a litter-strewn section. There were some men hanging around. I’d say it looked like a homeless hangout. Nothing wrong with that but it didn’t feel safe although I went through it, twice, with no issues.
New Hope Church Road Trailhead, Cary
Bottom line – very nice trail. For this ride, the detour section was not well-marked but that will be temporary. There was the one-mile section where the trail zigged and zagged but just take it slow and watch for lane markings. The users all seemed courteous and it was surprisingly busy on a November weekday. My recommendation for others or if I am in the area again, is to park at the New Hope Church Road Trailhead.
Distance: 29.3 miles Average Speed: 14.8 mph Weight: 168
