peaceonabike - A Cancer Survivor's Journey to Find Peace on a Bike

June 6, 2024June 20, 2024

Cykelnerven 2024 – Day 2 – Vars to Auron

Note: On June 4-9, I participated in Cykelnerven, a cycling event that benefits the Multiple Sclerosis International Foundation (MSIF). We took on some of the toughest climbs to be used in this year’s Tour de France.

VARS, FRANCE

Is it better to know or not know what lies ahead? I had a general idea but did not study the profile maps. Each night Bo would tell us what we were in store for but if I looked my sleep would be worse than it already was.

Yesterday was brutal. The Col du Galibier was a bucket list climb for me and it was mission accomplished. But the route after lunch was more difficult. My legs were trashed.

Vars, France – The guys in orange were our four Danish coaches

The climb to the Col de Vars is a tough one. Twelve miles of switchbacks. About two-thirds of the way up is the town of Vars where we stayed overnight. We initially were to ride the full Col de Vars climb yesterday and then go back down to the hotel but Bo changed the route, maybe when he saw me.

Vars – Waiting at a construction traffic light
Conor and Toni

On the menu today was the last third of the climb up Col de Vars, four and one-half miles (7.2 km). Once we regrouped at the top we would have a 13.5-mile (21.7 km) descent. And then …

.. We would begin the climb of the Cine de Le Bonette. I never heard of it. But it is the highest paved road in France. Even before we began the climb we were out of water. Conor had none but I still had a full water bottle on my downtube. I poured my water into his bottle. Bo called for a support car to bring us water.

We started the 15-mile climb and in the first mile, I saw a water fountain alongside the road and pulled over. Once I got restarted I came to our support car with water.

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Bonette

I rode solo for the entire climb. I think it was steep enough that if you were suffering, like I was, you were suffering at your own speed and pace. At one point I came upon the water car again. The occupants, Shona, Kerry, and George, yelled encouragement and asked if I needed anything. As I approached, I yelled, “Gels!, but I’m not stopping.”

George scrambled and grabbed two gels from the car. As I passed. I held my right arm back, palm up, and George made a perfect placement of gels into my hand.

With each kilometer, I would check the sign to see how much pain was ahead. The signs would show how far it was to the summit and the gradient of the next kilometer would be marked. Anything above seven would be met with a bad look. I kept looking for something less than five percent but never saw one.

Sign marking distance on the Bonette – 17 km to go. The next km is 7.1%

Peer, the CEO of the Multiple Sclerosis International Foundation (MSIF) came by in his right-hand drive car. As he passed me slowly he asked if I needed anything. I yelled out “A sticky bottle!”

Waiting at a construction light on the descent of the Col de Vars

In cycling terms, a sticky bottle is a pass of a bottle from the team car to a rider on the bike. The “sticky” part is that in the brief moment of passing from driver to rider both people hold onto the bottle, thus it must be because it is sticky.

It’s not legal but is accepted so long as it’s not blatant, like more than two seconds. It’s akin to holding onto the car for two seconds. While it looks like it’s the rider who is responsible, remember the handoff is from the driver and it is the driver who has to let go once the bottle has been firmly grasped by the rider. And one needs to make sure it is gripped tightly because if the driver lets go too soon and the rider doesn’t have the bottle it could fall into the spokes of the rider or cause a crash of trailing riders.

Allen Lim, the nutritionist for Team Phonak in 2006 when Floyd Landis rode away, won Stage 17, and appeared to win the Tour de France, told me he thought Floyd’s ride was clean that day. He was fixated on the number of bottles Floyd took from the team car. They had 200 bottles, more than half of which he would pour over his head to help cool him on an extremely hot day (34℃ – 93℉ ). But if each bottle gave a two-second advantage, that would have been worth more than seven minutes. Seven minutes of holding onto the car.

A ruin village on the descent off Bonett

In the end, Floyd’s ride into Morzine gained him 5’42” over Carlos Sastre, the second-place finisher. From the outside looking in, only Floyd, riding alone, had the advantage of the sticky bottle – worth up to seven minutes of holding on. Combine that with his excellent descending skills that he could solo on and no flat sections where the peloton would have an advantage, and one could reasonably conclude that his ride was clean with the main advantage being Mr. Sticky. Of course, Floyd later tested positive for artificial testosterone.

Peer said to me, “I’ve got a bottle but I don’t have any sticky.”

The climb begins – Conor followed by Ernie

My face showed I was suffering. Inside I was laughing. Spencer handed Peer a bottle and Peer handed it to me. As soon as I took it he let go.

“What is this, this is no sticky bottle. I don’t want this.” I gave it back.

Peer was very confused. I can see him saying, “He asked for a bottle, I gave him one, and he gave it right back. These cyclists are weird.” (Probably)

I was dying laughing inside. Outwardly I was suffering.

It was a fun little diversion to break up the climb. I would not have wanted a pull from someone who did not know what a sticky bottle was and had never practiced the technique.

Yesterday in combining the Col de Vars at the end after the Col du Galibier made a very tough day. And now I was on a tougher and higher climb. Altitude is a problem even if one doesn’t notice. With less oxygen, there are fewer red blood cells being produced and going to your legs. I had no power and the entire way up the climb I was thinking about tomorrow.

Bo, our Cykelnerven Danish coach, defined success for each of us as making it to the end. He didn’t want anyone going so deep on one day or one climb that they couldn’t ride the next day. Left unsaid would also be so fatigued that they would crash. And I was fatigued.

The profile for today included a 15-mile downhill after the summit of La Bonette and a final five-mile climb to the hotel. I have never been SAG’d in any event. Whether stubbornness or pride, I also managed to avoid the broom wagon.

I thought yesterday on the Col de Vars that I might be SAG’d off the course as I was the last finisher. But they let me ride. Today I was pulling the plug. Once I got to the bottom of the next mountain I would join my teammates in taking a ride. It was the thought that the last time I had to pedal uphill was on La Bonette that got me over the climb.

At the summit, I was prepared for the final 500 meters or so when the road really turned up. We came to the top where the team car was but not the summit. Two quick lefts made a U-turn or a 180 back down the mountain. A quick left and quick right was the way to the summit.

There were a number of motorcyclists here milling around. About 50 meters farther the road was still blocked with snow. That was a loop road to the actual summit. We did not make it to the summit and I’m not sure that when the Tour comes here on Stage 19 they will either because it is not a mountaintop finish for them.

Our car was there with our dry bags. These were bags that we packed each day with warmer clothes so that when we reached the summit we could put on warm clothes for the descent.

Peer looked for my bag and said that it must have been in the other car. He offered me his mittens and even his coat. I declined. Everyone else had their warm gear on. In fact, Ian was with me at the summit but didn’t wait for me because he was getting cold. Understandable.

It was cold on the descent. The danger would be in wearing sweaty clothes, and I was sweaty, of getting too cold and going hyperthermic. It happened to me once. That was on the Col du Lautaret in July 2011. One can lose control of the bike when suffering from hyperthermia. On that descent the bike was shaking and I pulled over at almost every hairpin corner to steady myself.

La Bonette – We came up from the left side and nearly made a U-turn to descend on the right side

But I went down safely, met the group for lunch, and were joined by others trailing. Most were in front of me but at least three were still behind. We talked strategy for the remainder of the day and decided we would all SAG when we reach the bottom to have something left for tomorrow.

Descending La Bonette – the brown on the snow is sand carried from the Sahara

Out of the lunch stop we still had a bit of descending to go. I left last and passed a couple of cautious descenders. That is, more cautious than me.

I always prided myself on being a cautious but fast descender. In 2010 and 2011 I seemed to go much faster on the descents. In 2014 in Italy on the Passo Fedaia, I went 53 mph (84 kph). This year I barely hit 40 mph (64 kph) before touching the brakes.

We came to an intersection and regrouped. Once we were ready to roll I led the way down to town. I thought I was going well when Bo passed me. I thought he caught me to slow me down. But I jumped on his wheel and followed his line. He kept looking back for others and there were none to be found. We came to the town together and waited. For one descent I got to show I could fly.

The sky looked a little dark but I did not sense rain was coming. We would have to wait for the van to come pick us up. Bo looked around and told everyone where we could wait if it started to rain. And he asked who was going to ride to the hotel. Then he looked at me and said “You are,” not a command but sort of sensed I would want to. And I did.

Waterfall (Photo credit: Barry McCormick)

It’s funny. My legs did not feel good on the climb up Col de Vars and were awful on the climb of La Bonette. But when we stopped at Saint-Étienne it wasn’t so much as I wanted to stop as it was that I knew that I could keep going and so I did.

There was one other, Annaleis, who was planning to ride while the other seven stayed behind. Bo told me to go ahead as I had the route on my Wahoo. I hadn’t studied the climb because I hadn’t intended to ride this. While I knew it was only 4.5% grade I also knew I was in trouble when the first couple of miles were quite easy. That meant the last couple would be 8-9% to make that average.

Annaleis and one coach passed me. And the second one too. And it started to rain. It became a steady rain which was more refreshing than annoying although there was some thunder as well. Bo came back to make sure I was still plugging away and rode with me to the finish. For the second consecutive day, I was last finisher. Two days in and already locking up title of Lanterne Rouge.

The hotel was a quaint family-run hotel with a killer view of the Alps off the balconies we each had. Dinner was Lasagna (again), so large that no one at our table of eight could finish theirs.

Yesterday was my toughest day. Today was the toughest climb. And I didn’t SAG. I was exhausted. I knew or thought I would finish but I was not recovering. I started thinking that I should not go to Switzerland for a week and to Finland for the following week. I needed rest. I would look for alternatives and to return home.

Lodging and dinner was the Hotel Le Chastellares, a quaint family-run hotel with beautiful views. And a dog.

TOUR DE FRANCE 2024 CLIMBS

Col de Vars – 2 109 m (6,919′) – 18,8 km @ 5.7%
PJAMM Fiets*: 7.2 – 11.7 miles – 3,654′

Cime de la Bonette – 2 802 m (9,193′) – 22,9 km @ 6.9%
PJAMM Fiets*: 11.9 – 14.9 miles – 5,202′

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*See PJAMM Cycling for a description of the climb

June 5, 2024June 19, 2024

Cykelnerven 2024 – Day 1 – Briançon to Col de Vars

BRIANÇON, FRANCE

This is the day. Or more specifically, This is the day that the Lord hath made; we will rejoice and be glad in it.

Like many Americans, I started watching the Tour de France in the early 2000s when our TV networks decided a race with an American contender would be worth showing. Thank you Outdoor Life Network!

The names of these climbs were epic and mythical. Alpe d’Huez. Col du Tourmalet. Mont Ventoux. Col du Galibier. In 2010 I signed up for a Trek Travel trip and climbed the Tourmalet. Twice. In 2011 I climbed Alpe d’Huez, and Mont Ventoux on my solo trip to France. I tried to climb the Col du Galibier but was turned back by a blizzard on July 11, 2011.

Surprisingly, I made a good decision on the bike that day. I turned back rather than die on the mountain. Still, it was the coldest I have ever been on a bike. I was slightly disappointed but reasoned it was not meant to be. There would not be a second chance. But yet ..

Here I am in France with Cykelnerven. And today we are to climb the Col du Galibier.

In preparation for this trip our coach, Bo, asked for a self-evaluation as he tried to determine riding groups. Each day we would be presented with a long and a longer (bonus) stage. What is my experience? Am I experienced in the mountains (yes) or am I just enthusiastic about riding in the mountains (also, yes). My self-description is that I love climbing but I am more enthusiastic than talented. That was true in 2010 and is more true 14 years later.

Annaleise and Frank or Klaus on Lautaret

The writing was on the wall. We would have two routes on day one. And only the fastest riders would attempt the Galibier. The basic option would ride from Briançon to Col de Vars, a distance of 34 miles. The bonus would head in the opposite direction, 22 miles to the summit of the Col du Galibier, and then return to Briançon before riding to Col de Vars.

In my comments, I told Bo that my only goal for this trip was to be able to climb the Galibier. Last night at our team meeting Bo told us that he wanted everybody to go up Galibier. Yes! I would do it. If I could do it.

In 10 years from age 40 to 50, I didn’t lose much power. Likewise, from age 50 to 60 I didn’t lose much. But in the last eight years, I have seen a drop-off.

When I built my bike last night both my wheels seemed off. And I thought I had a broken rear derailleur cable as when I tried to shift from the smallest cog nothing would happen. I wondered if the coaches had a cable to fix it. After five minutes I realized I was shifting in the wrong direction. The cable was fine. My mind was showing signs of fatigue, probably from jet lag.

We were supposed to be wheels down at 9:00 a.m. What’s a few minutes among friends? We broke into two groups and our trail group quickly caught the first one when they had a flat tire. Yikes. Not a good start.

I have been on this climb before – in a car. In 2011 I drove in the snowstorm to Galibier. And the next day I drove down the road from the Col du Lautaret to Briançon on my way to watch a stage of the Tour. But I was still cold and decided to drive to Marseille instead and sit by the Sea rather than freeze in the mountains.

The start of the climb of Col du Galibier

The ride up the mountain was familiar. Seventeen miles to Lautaret before the turn and five more miles to the summit of Galibier. I knew there was one snow shed on the way up.

Col du Galibier looking towards Brionçon

I was right in with the second group when I pulled off for a nature break. We had already split and I was with Group 2A when I saw Group 2B go by. I thought I would catch up to them but never did. They had about 1:00 on me and I never closed it nor did I try to. I rode at my own pace.

At the summit of Lautaret was our snack and water van. I began the climb right behind Conor, a rider with Primary Progressive M.S. from Ireland. As I caught him and slowed to ride with him he told me to go on. I told him “Nobody rides alone” and I rode with him side by side to the summit.

Getting to Galibier was nice. I think that completes my “bike-it” (bucket) list of climbs. I welcome new and different climbs but I don’t see myself making a goal for one in particular.

Col du Galibier Henri Desgrange Monument

Getting to Galibier was nicer because I have a stem cap on my bike – I ride for my Daughter. I am on this trip for 25 strangers to raise money to fight MS because of her. My reward was making it to the top but my real reward was looking down every time it got hard and thinking of her.

The Col had just opened to the tunnel last week. In fact when Bo was here with his team and the road was closed at the Lautaret his team, or maybe him, ignored the signs and rode up to see how far they could get. To a policeman was it. A hefty fine and stern warning that he is now on double secret probation and could be imprisoned the next time. Ouch.

The tunnel avoids the true summit as the road to the summit was still being cleared of winter’s snow. Like in any sport, you can only play the schedule they hand you and our schedule had us going as far as the road was open – to the tunnel. I am satisfied.

Tunnel at Col du Galibier – The road to the summit is just to the right

Conor and I, joined by Bo, descended to Briançon for lunch. We were encouraged last night to think about the long term and that was finishing. We didn’t need to spend all day on the bike and have nothing left.

Although we had just ridden 44 miles, the next 34 would be tough. Tougher. Toughest. Bo said it would take four hours. That didn’t seem right, how about 34 miles in two hours?

It was four hours. Some flat, some climbing including a one-mile stretch of 12%, and an eight-mile climb to the hotel up the Col de Vars.

I wasn’t happy with my bike setup. The front wheel never seemed perfectly seated and I saw a touch of brake pad on the rim when the brakes were in the lock position. I opened the brakes for riding uphill. On the descent from the Galibier I hit a bump and the handlebars dropped down a little. I pulled over and muscled them back into position. Twice more in the last 34 miles I had to stop and adjust the bars. I did not take the time to use a tool and do that properly. That would have to wait until the end of the ride.

Champcella – We would descend to the air strip before the last climb

After the climb of the 12% wall, we had a two-mile plateau before a two-mile technical descent to the valley. On the descent, we stopped at a hairpin. Bo told us one of our riders crashed out here ahead of us. I’m not sure who it was but it sounds like too much speed and overcooked the turn. It happens to the pros – they’re racing. No need for it to happen here.

We came to Guillestre and stopped to regroup and to search for water. We were all out and had six miles of climbing to Vars, the first five miles would be really tough. We must have water.

In addition to Conor, some of the other riders abandoned on the Col du Vars leaving me as last rider on course. And last finisher. When I arrived the group was outside enjoying beverages and cheered for me. I know it was meant as encouragement but I would have preferred to slip in quietly without notice and fanfare.

I think not coming to Europe early was a big mistake. Fatigue already set in and some of it was certainly caused by jet lag. Essentially I arrived on Tuesday (Milan) for riding on Wednesday.

Last year I arrived one week ahead of the Roosters trip but when my bike didn’t make it until I got to Luxembourg and I was “off” I blamed that on not riding for a week. I need a better plan.

Lodging and dinner was at Le Vieille Auberge Hotel, Col de Vars St. Marie. Dinner was a soup appetizer followed by lasagna.

TOUR DE FRANCE 2024 CLIMBS

Col du Lautaret – 2 058 m (6,752′) – 26,1 km @ 2.9%
PJAMM Fiets*: 3.3 – 16.2 miles – 2,549′

Col du Galibier – 2 642 m (8,668′) – 23 km @ 5.1%
PJAMM Fiets*: 6.4 – 20.8 miles – 4,182′ (from Briançon) – 3.8
PJAMM Fiets: 5.3 – 5.3 miles – 1,848′ (from Lautaret) – 6.6%
We could not reconcile the climb data listed for the TdF with the data listed in PJAMM Cycling

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*See PJAMM Cycling for a description of the climb

June 4, 2024June 13, 2024

Cykelnerven Day 0 – Milan to Briançon

MILAN, ITALY

I stayed at the DoubleTree by Hilton Milan Malpensa Solbiate Olana hotel. In 2014 when I went to Italy with Trek Travel I stayed in center city next to the cathedral and saw a little of Milan then. This trip was travel and rest. Must have rest so I stayed near the airport.

Doubletree Hotel Milan Airport – Courtyard

I needed to get up to speed quickly on the time changes. I had a four-hour difference yesterday in Iceland and now lost two hours more. I went to sleep shortly after midnight and woke up after 8:00. Looks like eight hours but was just 6:08 of sleep. Not enough. My recovery as measured by my Whoop Band was 8%.

I went to breakfast at 9:00 a.m. Checkout was noon so I stayed in my room until noon then checked out. I waited in the cool air in the courtyard until 2:00 p.m. and caught a shuttle to the airport.

A guy (tourist) came over to me and asked what was in the case. I told him a cello. He looked surprised and said that’s cool. He said he was seeing more people with those cases in airports. I told him music was growing in popularity.

Was that wrong? (I did confess that there was a bicycle in there.)

At the airport, Door 7, I walked in and saw a restaurant or cafe (Pret) with two guys sitting there and cello cases at their feet. It was Andy (U.K.) and Toni (U.S.).

Conor and Barry would join us around 3:20 p.m. Someone came in the door around 3:30 p.m. and said our bus was waiting. We gathered our belongings and headed out past the bus pickup to a small parking lot. There were two glorified vans, neither with room for luggage that included bike cases.

The driver put the larger bulky hard cases in then took my soft case on end – on the fork end. Nooo! The bike nor the case is built to withstand that. I hoped that it would survive.

The drive was three hours to Briançon. Most of it was highway or freeway but we had to cross a mountain road to the border of France and down to Briançon.

We stayed at the Hotel Sowell Parc Briançon Hotel. We were greeted by staff, put the bikes in a small bike room, and then had a team meeting followed by dinner.

Dinner was a buffet. I sat with Toni, Marc (Switzerland), and Roelof (Netherlands)

Most tried to build their bikes before dinner. It was too crowded in the room and I waited until after dinner.

When I went to build my bike I found the front fork had been broken off its mount. I was worried about the build and could not get the front wheel to sit properly. Once built I was nervous about the bike for tomorrow more than me.

Lodging was double and my first room was two beds in one. Or one bed in two. This week is gonna suck.

June 3, 2024June 13, 2024

Cykelnerven Day -1 – Italy

MILAN, ITALY

I have the iPhone 15 and since I got it the alarm volume seems to be hit and miss. I set the hotel alarm clock for 3:55 a.m. as well. I needed to be sure to catch my 8:00 flight.

The alarms went off and I didn’t even hit snooze. I got up, grabbed my stuff, and checked out of the Hilton hotel. As I was checking out the clerk told me since I couldn’t grab breakfast at 4:00 a.m. to take something from their cooler. I grabbed a chicken and bacon sandwich which would become my dinner in Italy.

I headed for the airport. It was cold and raining. I was pretty confident I could find the airport but I had some angst about refueling. I stopped one mile short of the airport at a gas station. I pulled in and tried both credit cards and the pump did not like them. I continued on.

At the car rental was a gas station which could be part of the same business. I tried to insert the chip card and that did not work. I tried the tap or wave and it worked. I refilled the car.

It was windy although not as windy as yesterday. Sleet and some snow was coming down. There supposedly was a shuttle but I chose to walk the 10 minutes to the terminal rather than wait 10 minutes in the cold and sleet for a shuttle that may or may not come by.

Getting to and through security was a relatively quick affair. Once clear I saw a sign for the Saga Lounge. I hadn’t been thinking of lounge access and may not have thought of it on my own. I’m glad I saw the sign. I checked in and was able to have a nice Icelandic breakfast. And relax.

In the main terminal, the flight was on the board when I checked at 5:30. It was listed as 8:00 a.m. and “Gate Posted at 7:10 a.m.’ In the Saga lounge, the gate (C28) was posted. And when I went to the gate at 7:05 it was still stating that it would be posted at 7:10. Just a guess but the gate areas are smaller than most U.S. airports and they don’t want everyone showing up two hours earlier and milling around.

I monitored the status of my bike and could see that it was out at the plane when I boarded. The flight was nice. I sat in 1F and was able to connect to inflight Wifi the entire flight.

As I disembarked I went to the baggage claim area. One final check and I saw my bike was nearby. I exhaled.

Bike, Strolle, Bear, Cello, and Ski area – Milan-Malpensa Airport

Terminal 1 at Milan-Malpenso Airport is huge. I don’t know how far I walked but it was far.

I realized I did not know how to contact the shuttle for the hotel. Two guys from the bus company made the call for me.

Lodging is at the Doubletree by Hilton Milan Malpensa Solbiate Olona. When the driver picked me up he told me he would wait a couple of minutes for another passenger, Mr. Sherry. I told him that was me. He said I thought you were Mr. Barry. I assured him that somehow we got two reservations in there but just one passenger.

Recovery this morning was 8% on my Whoop band. I am very tired.

June 2, 2024June 18, 2024

Cykelnerven Day -2 – Iceland

REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

I can see this may be impossible to keep up with in real-time.

Quick Thoughts:

I did not go to the airport from Aiden’s baseball but went home instead and avoided a six-hour wait at the airport
IcelandAir had a relationship with AirFrance for their lounge but AirFrance in Terminal A was closed by 8:30 p.m. American Airlines (I have a pass) did not have a lounge.
The flight was smooth. They served dinner after midnight (did not eat) but no breakfast for a 9:00 a.m. arrival.
It was VERY windy on arrival.
If I had my bike to ride I wouldn’t have ridden in this wind. Very brutal.
Make a reservation to rent a car. Three hours waiting in lines.
The good stuff in Iceland was too far to drive to. Not in a literal sense but I was very tired and operating on 40 minutes of sleep.
It looks like a barren moonscape until you get to Reykjavik which itself is a pretty city.
The North Atlantic Ocean was very angry today.
Plan B Burger was perfect.
Hilton upgraded me to a King Suite on the 9th floor.
I’m tired. Very tired.
Sunset is at 11:34 pm
Sunrise is 3:17 am
Don’t try to see Iceland in half a day. If you have half a day stay at the airport. Rent a car then come back. Icelandair lets you extend your stay which makes sense if you want to see Iceland.
I can’t tell you what to do in Iceland but I can tell you what not to do.

A Boeing 737. We parked far from the terminal and at least two buses carried passengers to the terminal. Passport control was quick and easy. No line. The agent asked where I was going and how long I was staying. And quickly through.

Getting a rental car was difficult without a reservation. In the terminal, there was nothing. A woman at Europcar told me I could walk 10 minutes offsite and try over there. I sat down, made a reservation with Enterprise, and then looked for the lot. I saw Europcar and went in. No lines. The guy couldn’t find my reservation and I realized my mistake. Europcar and Enterprise are not the same company but they are both green. Nice guy and when I asked one thing to see he said, “Blue Lagoon.”

I went to Enterprise and waited. Long lines. Once I got a car I had no clue where I was going. My phone and Bluetooth weren’t syncing at first and I had a difficult time locating addresses. Apple Maps, Waze, and Google Maps all gave different directions to Blue Lagoon.

I just decided to drive a little and then go to the hotel. This section of Iceland is the volcanic Reykjanes Peninsula. It is a barren moonscape with black sand and rocks and not much else. It was my impression of Iceland and I was so wrong.

The Blue Lagoon is a major tourist attraction. I never found it as I was uncertain if the road I was on was open or closed at a construction point. I turned around and was content to find any roadside pull-offs I could.

I stopped at Brimketill lava rock pool on the North Atlantic Ocean. The ocean was very angry and crashing on the rocks. Every 60 seconds or so a large wave would crash and the spray would cover the walkway. I went for a photo op and got gobsmacked by one of them. It required holding onto my phone/camera with both hands.

I found a bridge between two continents. The western part of Iceland is in North America while the rest is in Europe. A divide runs through here where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet or separate. This one is more symbolic as the actual plates can be seen in Þingvellir National Park.

The wind here was very strong and there was grit in the air from the black sand. People were unsteady walking on the sidewalk as the winds were so strong.

And I found a geothermal spring. It appeared to be like Yellowstone but without buffalo. There was a boardwalk and steam was coming out of the ground. There was also a geothermal plant here. I don’t know enough without researching whether they produce electricity from the steam or capture hot water.

I was driving to Rejkavik and was getting very tired. On the plane, I watched a video about driving in Iceland and it warned that because of the nearly 24-hour daylight, one may be getting tired while it’s still light out. Or perhaps you just arrived and had 40 minutes of sleep. That was me. I pulled off at a picnic table. I didn’t nap but closed my eyes for 60 seconds. It helped.

I arrived at the hotel and went through the parking lot. I saw a sign next door in a plaza for Plab B Burger. I went and got a burger meal (fries and drink – free refills!). It cost 3000 ISK or about $21.

Lodging was at the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica. It was a very nice hotel with excellent staff. At check-in I was upgraded to a King Suite on the top (9th floor) with access to the executive suite. It was nice sitting in the suite and drinking Pepsi Max which is an acceptable alternative to Coke Zero.

Reykjavik is a pretty city with lots of green and buildings. It looks much like many European cities. I didn’t have time to explore.

My impression of Iceland and its terrain was formed by driving on the volcanic peninsula getting from the airport to Reykjavik. But the rest of the country it out there to be explored. I probably won’t be back but I would love to – maybe for Northern Lights.

May 19, 2024May 24, 2024

SkyMass Again

FRONT ROYAL, VIRGINIA

I did this ride once. It was in 2010 and was my first or second ride after cancer. Fourteen years ago my weight was better (thanks, Cancer), my bike fitness was probably less,* my age was better, and my motivation was stronger. On that day I rode with seven riders from The Bike Lane, all appreciably younger, stronger, faster. Yet I kept up.

Although Strava was founded in 2009, who was using it then? Not me. Likewise for RideWithGPS, founded in 2007. I was using a Garmin 705. I would upload a ride to Garmin Connect but only epic rides. To upload meant connecting the Strava to a computer to upload to the Garmin website. The 10-30 mile local rides were never uploaded.

First generation super GPS for the bike (2009)

Eventually, I became a convert to RidewithGPS and even later to Strava. Today my Wahoo Bolt automatically uploads each ride to both as soon as I end a ride. It is done through Wifi, Bluetooth, or some magical potion that I carry in my back pocket. I don’t know or care how it works, just that it works.

Late last night I went to the Garmin website. My password still worked. I found my ride from 2010 and exported the GPX file. I uploaded that to Strava so that I could be discouraged when I rode seeing how I did 14 years ago.

I posted this SkyMass ride six weeks ago on the Facebook page of Prince William Cycling Club. The night before my ride, some dick posted the same ride including the route I had drawn, just 30 minutes earlier. He could have asked me if I could move the start time to 9:00 and I would have agreed.

When I arrived at the park at 9:05 there was a group of about eight riders looking ready to roll out. At 9:15 and 9:20 they were still there. I began to think it was a different group and I approached them and asked what ride it was I was met with a surly, “This is the 9:00 ride.” I guess they knew me. Why he wanted to lead his own ride, I don’t know. Ego?

Although in 2010 my Edge had mapping capabilities, we were not creating routes to be downloaded to bike computers yet. It could be done but it was a very awkward process. I never did that. Someone 14 years ago, had a cue sheet of the roads we would follow. And everyone followed. On that day we bypassed Luray and opted for country roads and closed country stores. For today, I created a route that went through Luray where refueling was an option.

We had a group of four and it was perfect. I don’t like large groups and I was glad to see the 9:00 group leave five minutes before us. We left and headed up to Skyline Drive. The last time I was here was in 2021 with the Texas4000.

We climbed and climbed some more. The first 5.7 miles (9.2km) were all uphill before giving way to a very slight and short downhill and then climbed to 7.5 miles (12km) before a downhill section. The climbing continued to our high point on the Drive at 22.4 miles (35km).

While it looks imposing, the climbing was just 2.5% grade for those 22 miles. After removing the descents from the climb it was 15.9 miles (25.6km) at 4.5%. It felt like more.

It was foggy and chilly at times. My arms were wet from riding in the clouds. I regretted not having the arm warmers that I had left in the car. My three riding partners wore jackets.

We descended off Skyline Drive on Rte 211 to Luray. It was a Sunday and many places were closed. I don’t remember being in downtown Luray before. Although the initial impression was gas stations and a strip mall, the main street presented quite a pretty and quaint place.

Cute store. They sold almost nothing though.

We made our way over to a bridge over the South Fork of the Shenandoah River. Two turns later we were on Fort Valley Road. That road turns up and goes over Massanutten Mountain. It is in a forest with an occasional view of the valley over the right shoulder, especially where a home on the side of the mountain has been built.

The sun had come out and I was sweating heavily. My Whoop was showing my Strava segment from 14 years ago and was taunting me. Although I started first with another rider, once I went ahead I watched to see if I would lose more time compared to 2010 or keep the loss the same. I was losing time.

The climb is hard. It gets increasingly harder the farther up you go. It was 10% for the last kilometer,

At the summit, I saw a paraglider jumping off the side of the mountain. I had slumped over my handlebars and was too tired and my hands were too slimy to get a photo. But the views were great.

The profile appears to show a 33-mile downhill after the summit. There is a nice descent back off the mountain but while the road trends downhill it is extremely lumpy. We still had more than 1000′ of climbing (300m) remaining. Plus we were now going into a headwind.

Traffic on Fort Valley Road seemed to be heavier than a country road should be. It did have a double yellow line most of the way once coming off the mountain. One motorist in a convertible going the opposite direction yelled very aggressively while he passed, “GET OFF THE ROAD!”

We stopped at Fort Valley Store for more drinks – and a Snickers. As we turned onto Mountain Road at Mile 73 (117 km), a Strava segment popped up. I decided to see if the legs had anything left. At first, I went, and then I paused. Then I went again. And I went full out and beat the 2010-self by one second. I will take that.

Back at the cars, I pulled out apple cinnamon donuts from The AppleHouse restaurant in Linden. They were a perfect dessert for a full meal of climbing today.

*I say my bike fitness was less 14 years ago. I was recovering from cancer surgery and not riding daily as I was working full-time. In 2024 I ride every day although I undoubtedly am not as strong.

May 13, 2024November 25, 2024

A Colonial Ride

WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA

I found myself side by side with two horses pulling a couple of riders in a carriage. The driver was dressed in period garb but the riders, well, they were wearing something from 400 years later.

The capitol flew the flag of the British Empire. And I, in my time-traveling machine, was on my bike.

I began 90 minutes earlier in Richmond. I parked at Great Shiplock Park and rode one mile over to the Richmond Main Station. The train was scheduled to leave at 10:03 a.m. and I walked into the terminal at 9:50. A not-so-friendly employee “greeted” me with a greeting that was less friendly and more challenging. She sort of barked out “May I help you?” and I sensed that was more seeing what I was doing in the train station with my bike as opposed to actually wanting to help me.

Cobbles are for cars. Pave is for bikes. Richmond, Va.

I responded that I was headed to Williamsburg. She said, “Ok.” She could have, should have added, that the train was 38 minutes late. Is this really any way to run a train?

Despite a beautiful morning, the doors to the outside platform were locked. One couple had tried to go outside for fresh air while the rest of us were inside the terminal. At about 10:15 a.m. two employees opened the doors to the platform, signaling that the train would be arriving soon.

On the platform, I met two people who had bikes with them. This train is nice but they limit bikes to four per train. The best I can determine is that there is one space per car on this four-car train using a hook-and-hang system.

Richmond Main. Couple would be riding back as well.

I chatted briefly with the couple. This was their first time riding from Williamsburg to Richmond. The woman had a prosthetic foot and I was quite impressed that she, that they, were trying this. They looked to be both recreational riders. The man, and he was the only one I talked to, asked if he should buy a newer bike. He mentioned his bike is 30 years old. I told him for sure he should. I should have had him lift my bike.

He asked if I was riding back from Williamsburg and I told him I was. He said he didn’t know if they could ride seven more miles and told me they would take a bus from the train to Jamestown Settlement which is the beginning of the 52-mile trail back to Richmond. I saw them when I had offloaded in Williamsburg and hoped to pass them on my ride but I never saw them again. They may have eaten lunch in Williamsburg before beginning their journey.

The late arriving train messed up my schedule. I had just enough time to ride from Williamsburg to Richmond and finish with a climb up Libby Hill. I needed to get home in time to go watch my grandson play baseball at 6:30 p.m.

I departed the station and was about to head to Jamestown. I saw one of the entrances to Colonial Williamsburg and decided to roll back into time. The signage was clear – no motorized vehicles. So bikes are welcome.

I slow-rolled through the town which may explain my disappointing average speed for the ride.* Other reasons may be (1) I’m old, (2) It was windy, (3) Out of fuel, (4) I’m fat, (5) I suck.

There were places for lunch in Williamsburg that tempted me but I thought I had everything I needed for the ride. I headed down Jamestown Road making two exploratory wrong turns along the way. I came into the Virginia Capital Trail at MP 0.5 (there isn’t such a MP though) and headed towards Richmond.

Food options are scarce on the trail. The trail parallels Va. Rte 5 and food options are scarce on Rte 5. I didn’t use it but there is a nice trail map online. Near Jamestown at MP 2.5 is Spoke & Art Provisions. They are closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays but the clock and not the calendar was my problem today.

I was fighting a strong crosswind all day coming from the southwest. And I was fighting the clock.

Near Charles City is a Citgo gas station where the trail crosses Rte 5 and takes the road for 1/2 mile. The gas station sells fried chicken. In Charles City is Cul’s Courthouse Grille (you know what the “e” means). That is probably the best place to stop, sit, and eat on the trail. I ate there once and it was good. The gas station does not have seating.

A new entry may be Breez-In Convenience Store, just south of Charles City. It may be a Sunoco station that I passed. The trail is away from the road here so I did not check it out. But that was it for food and water.

I carried two bottles of water and a few food packets. I would discover that was not enough. I was out of food by MP 42 when I went through the two parks. The first is Four Mile Creek Park. No facilities were open but a new restroom is almost complete. Two miles later was Dorey Park. It had facilities and presumably water fountains. But I would have to exit from the trail to go into the park and didn’t have the time. Or energy. I was bonking.

I passed the Valero gas station at MP 43.5 and then doubled back. I knew I was just eight miles from the start but I also knew I needed something. I went into the Fast Mart, saw the water then opted instead for Gatorade. I went to the counter and there were two young women “working.” There were two registers and one woman had a “Register Closed” sign on hers as she was checking her phone. The other woman, with three nostril rings, said “I’ll be with you in a second.”

I waited for one minute and she was still standing there. I think she was in mid-transaction with someone who left the store, maybe to go out to the car and get their wallet. Rather than pause or cancel the transaction she just stood there. I apologized and told her I didn’t have time to wait. I left with nothing.

I went another four miles and came to a 7-Eleven. At this point, I was only two and one-half miles from start and all downhill. But I stopped. I needed water. And went for a Slurpy. I poured that into both bottles and I was great.

I was watching the time and wanted to ride Libby Hill. Three miles earlier I had no energy to tackle the famous climb used in the 2015 World Cycling Championships. When I got to my car I was ready to climb. I decided I would check Waze. If traffic going home was horrific and there was no chance of getting to Aiden’s game then I would continue my ride.

I stopped at the car. I opened Waze and saw I could be home by 5:30 if I left right then. I ended my ride, took a “shower” with Chamois Butt’r Skin Wash, and headed home.

It was a nice ride. Ultimately my ride didn’t end short because of a baseball game. It ended short because Amtrak can’t run a train on schedule.

*My average was just 15.1 mph. Knocking out the slow-rolling part in Williamsburg, it was more than 16 mph.

DISTANCE: 59 miles (95 km)

May 3, 2024May 9, 2024

Happy Happy Pain

THURMONT, MARYLAND

It’s like Happy Happy Pain Pain but with half the pain.

The need for more mountain training became obvious when on Sunday I rode from Myersville on my Happy Happy Pain Pain ride. I had one metric that day I wanted to improve on. That was the two-mile climb from Pen Mar to High Rock. And I failed. Miserably.

Bridge over Big Hunting Creek (Blacks Mill Road)

We didn’t time segments back in 2009 but I had the segment loaded on my bike computer on Sunday. I started out 1-2 seconds ahead of my 2009 self. After 3-4 minutes I was behind the pace. I fell off dramatically and finished at 17:08. I lost 3.5 minutes in 15 years. France is not looking good.

Today’s ride was planned for 45 or 57 miles but from Thurmont, Md., and not from Myersville. But the destination again was High Rock. I rode with my friend, Tim, and told him I would ride with him except at High Rock. There I had to go for a PR (personal record). This assumed that he couldn’t or wouldn’t want to stay with me as I went all out.

It was a gorgeous day as we arrived at Thurmont Community Park. The temperature would hover in the low 70s most of the day with bright sunshine obscured by forested roads for most of the route.

Catoctin Furnace – You only see this traveling at the speed of bike

We rode some flat country roads for about eight miles before starting the climbing portion of the day up Catoctin Hollow Road. I have ridden this road at least twice before, once in 2009 and once in 2012. Has it really been 12 years since I last climbed this?

I designed this route using a route ridden by three cyclists I met at High Rock on Sunday. They had ridden from Walkersville so I wasn’t going to duplicate their exact route as I wanted to ride out of Thurmont. But we would follow their route from Catoctin Hollow Road to High Rock and back to Thurmont.

The roads are beautiful. Most were shaded in the forest and it was hard to resist stopping on the climb for photos. We made our way over to Fort Ritchie and the beginning of the climb to High Rock. We went through an intersection at the High Rock Park. And I took off.

I wasn’t sure where the segment on the climb began although Wahoo would show START. But from history, I also know that there is a delay in actually passing the start location, and by the time it shows up on the bike’s computer. So it was good to have some speed going at that point. In a few hundred meters I hit the start and was immediately up on my personal record (PR) by 2-3 seconds.

My goal, and it would change frequently over the next 15 minutes, was to set a PR. For that I needed to beat my 2009 time of 13:26. The time ahead went up to 20 seconds then 30 seconds. Then my goal was to beat 13:00. At one point I was 0:48 ahead and Wahoo also predicted a finishing time. That time was 13:28. Even Wahoo didn’t believe that I could hold a 48-second lead to the finish.

I unzipped my jersey. The winds felt like headwinds but were cooling and weren’t hated. My wind map would show that those were crosswinds.

At 400 meters to go I could see the opening at High Rock in the road ahead. I still had a 45-second lead. As I crested the summit it showed I still had 60 meters to go. But where? There was only a parking lot and an access road to the left. I stayed on the road. And then the display switched to my course map. There was no indication that I finished a Strava segment. I know I was ahead. Does it count if it’s not on Strava?

I turned around. I descended 800 meters (0.5 miles) to find Tim and to ride the last section with him. He asked me if I got it (PR) and I told him I didn’t know. I mean, I killed it but Strava may not have it. I thought about descending and riding it again but doubted my second effort would match the first.

We took some photos. Saw some Methodists. I found a dad with his son and took their photo. Another woman climbed on the rock and I asked for her phone to take her photo. And then we left.

Taking photos of strangers
Photo Credit: Tim

I missed a planned turn in Blue Ridge Summit, Pa., and we improvised. We found the Sunoco/Convenience store and Tim bought some Gatorade. The road out of Blue Ridge Summit was one I’d ridden 4-5 times during the Civil War Century and I should have recognized the sweet descent on Gladhill Road. I did but not until it was too late to get some real speed. I did hit 45 mph (72.4 kph) though.

We made our way over to Sabillasville Road which trends downhill to Thurmont. Unlike most Maryland highways, there are no shoulders on this road but Tim and I would pull over when we passed an intersection to allow any following cars to pass. We’re nice.

The Roddy Road covered bridge became our decision point. At 43 miles we were two miles from where we parked. Or we could add a second covered bridge and 12 more miles. We pushed forward. We made a late decision to avoid Creagerstown Road and that added 3-4 miles.

I showed Tim their Trolley Trail and we were only 1-2 miles from a Metric Century. When we got to the parking lot I told Tim we could ride the park’s loop road and he agreed. I only needed two laps to get my 100 km but I rode a third one with Tim and he completed four laps. Century complete.

April 28, 2024April 29, 2024

Happy Happy Pain Pain

MYERSVILLE, MARYLAND

This wonderful name comes from a group ride posted for the Potomac Pedalers Touring Club that I rode in 2009. And I haven’t been back.

As I try to get into climbing shape for the French Alps in June, I am looking for increasingly challenging climbs to incorporate into my training regimen. I posted this climb to the Prince William Cycling Club page as a group ride. No one responded.

Through Strava we can compare climbing segments and I marked a few for comparison. Fifteen years ago I rode in a group which is almost always faster than I can ride solo. The exception is the chill Thursday night ride in Manassas that I often do and just hang at the back chatting or sweeping.

Welcome to Pa. I came down a side street and missed the Pa. border so backtracked 50 meters for this photo

I did not expect to be better than I was 15 years ago but you never know, If there were times that I put up “just riding along” then maybe by trying harder I could better those times. On the other hand, I told myself not to worry about Strava. Stop and smell the roses. Take pictures. Enjoy the ride.

The route was mostly on back country roads – those with no lines. Traffic on those roads was extremely light. A major difference between 2009 and 2024 is that then I did not carry a cell phone with an awesome camera. I did carry a pocket camera but rarely took pictures when I rode. Today would be a day for photos.

Blue Ridge Summit, Pa. Only the second sign I’ve seen like this. The other is in Ebensburg, Pa.

I arrived at the computer lot by 9:30 a.m. for a 10:00 a.m. ride to which no one responded. Still, someone could arrive who hadn’t responded but the ride description also said that I could leave when I wanted to if no one responded. I left the commuter lot at 9:49 a.m.

Library in an old train station in Blue Ridge Summit, Pa.

It was chilly at first – just 60°. I wore arm warmers but would remove them within the first hour. The profile started with what was basically a 15-mile climb. In Myersville my Wahoo bike computer also displayed the first climb and labeled it 1/27. Oh boy. Tough ride ahead.

I went through Blue Ridge Summit which I have been 5-6 times before on the Civil War Century rides. Leaving BRS I passed a golf course that looked like someone’s backyard (sorry). I would discover that it was Monterey Country Club, which they claim is one of the five oldest courses in the country.

A nice descent to Waynesboro and then Pen Mar set me up for the climb to High Rock – my destination. The bottom section of the climb was very hard. It was one mile at 8% but was undulating so there were ramps of 12-15%.

After the first grueling mile it’s a straight shot and with a steady 5.7% grade for two miles to High Rock. For the first 4-5 minutes I was ahead of my 2009 self pace by 1-2 seconds but eventually fell behind and said screw it. Enjoy the scenery. In 2009 I was riding with one other person and we paced each other up the climb. Not today.

Graffiti is not urban art. This is not an urban area. It is vandalism and it is hideous what people have done to such a beautiful area. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

I was hoping for a mostly downhill return to Myersville. But High Rock was only climb #14/27 according to my Strava map so it wasn’t all downhill with a tailwind after the climb. In fact, it was a headwind the rest of the way.

I wasn’t feeling it today. With each climb, I tried a little but as soon as I saw I was off the pace of the 2009 “me” I backed off. Near Myersville, I had a long segment on rollers and did get a :30 advantage. Near the end I went real slow so that I would PR by only a few seconds (so I can beat it next time). When I reached the end of the segment the distance remaining displayed as -10 then -20. Oh no. I sprinted and got my PR.

It is a beautiful ride. With 5400′ gain in 54 miles, it is a mountainous ride. I don’t know if I will be back but I should probably try this one once more before France.

DISTANCE: 53.59 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 5,387′

March 30, 2024April 12, 2024

Lake Monroe Loop

SANFORD, FLORIDA

This is a description of a route and not one ride. It was three rides on the Lake Monroe Loop which may or may not be its official name.

On January 24 I had a reservation on the AutoTrain from Sanford to Lorton, Virginia. The train left at 5:00 pm, but check-in with a vehicle was from 11:30 until 3:00. I wanted a nice ride in the area before a 15-hour train ride.

I found a ride on RidewithGPS that started at the Bicikleta Bike Shop in Sanford. It was a 27-mile loop around the lake and looked perfect. I found the bike shop and started to follow the route that I had uploaded to my bike computer.

I was only two blocks from the downtown area which is absolutely charming. Sanford has brick streets so I checked out the downtown before starting my ride.

Downtown Sanford is only one block from the lakefront which is very pretty.

I obviously did not study the route. I envisioned a 27-mile route hugging this lake the entire time. What I got was three and a half miles of lakefront views. I crossed a bridge over the St. Johns River which flows into the lake. And then I picked up a series of bike trails.

Part of the trail picks up a section of the Coast to Coast Trail

There were sections of boardwalks in the swamp. (Boardwalks scare me) Pretty but I’m not a fan of tires on wood.

I wasn’t quick enough with the camera but as I came around one corner I saw a juvenile armadillo scurry off the trail.

I gave up lakeside for woods. And swamp.

Eventually, the trail connected with a bike path next to Fl. State Hwy 415. It is separate from the highway and has an underpass at the one bridge to get to the other side to cross the river.

About five miles from Sanford the trail ends and one must ride on the road. But here the roads are more streets than highways.

The first time I rode it when I got back to the start I continued a second pass down the lake and found the AutoTrain. It was just an enjoyable loop.

My next AutoTrain reservation was on March 13. Arriving on March 14 I was prepared to ride the same loop. However, I thought it would be fun to reverse the route so I rode the same course but counterclockwise this time. Near the end, I routed to PDQ Chicken for lunch and then used the Wahoo’s Route to Start feature to get me back to the parking lot that was two blocks from Bicikleta’s.

And it was six days later I was headed home. No AutoTrain this time but I was headed up I-4 early in the morning. I stopped at the park next to the bridge that crosses the St. Johns River. I would ride the loop again albeit with a different start location,

There were no surprises. I could ride this loop without a map. But it’s nice to have a map on the computer as I like to display the distance remaining.

This is an easy, flat, ride with lake, swamp, and forest views. I highly recommend this to anyone in central Florida looking for an easy and enjoyable ride, Finish with lunch in Sanford.