This is one of my favorite rides, even though it doesn’t have a ferry. In a nutshell, take the Amtrak from Richmond to Williamsburg and then ride back to Richmond. My bike ($20) cost more than my fare ($12).
Richmond Main Station
There was a crash on I-95 South near Quantico this morning. Waze took me out to Joplin Road before getting on the Interstate. My ETA for Great Shiplock Park was 9:48 a.m. The train was scheduled to depart at 10:03 a.m.
I passed the Richmond Main Station and saw plenty of parking available but at what cost? I always drive to Great Shiplock Park, a neat little park about one mile from the train station, for free. I arrived and went through my mental exercise. Bike computer, Speaker, Front light, Rear light. Garmin radar (rear). Two bottles. Ice. Water. Food in my pockets. Check air pressure.
I was out of the lot at 9:55 a.m. to make my 10:00 train. Four minutes and two seconds later I was in the building. Elevator to the second floor and out to the platform.
Richmond Main
I asked the conductor which car and he said to pick one. I did and they did not have the bike “rack” set up. I leaned my bike on the bulkhead, preferring that to taking off a wheel and hanging it. From Richmond to Williamsburg is one hour and no stops so I knew more passengers would not be boarding the train down the line.
When the conductor came by he didn’t say a word, I suspect he didn’t want to change the luggage rack into a bike rack either.
The Capital in Williamsburg
I did a quick “tour” of Colonial Williamsburg and then found a course on my Wahoo and followed it. It featured some side streets which I don’t remember riding before but probably did.
Williamsburg
The trail was thick with leaves in places which made seeing the trail difficult at times.
I rode into a strong wind the entire time.
MyWindock.com – Chart of winds
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Chickahominy River
I stopped at Haupt’s Grocery in Charles City and got a chicken breast. I could tell I needed something although I had my pockets full of cycling food.
Charles City
At Shirley Plantation, I came upon a cotton field. I didn’t know they grew cotton in Virginia.
Cotton
Some of the trail is wooded which gave protection from the winds. Other sections were out in the open in which the wind and sun took it’s toll on me. It was 82 degrees today.
First Thanksgiving
Arriving in Richmond I made my way over to Libby Hill Park. I was hoping to see if I could beat my PR on the climb but never could find my line. The cobbles will beat you up. I sucked today.
Libby Park
Notwithstanding not getting a PR at Libby Park, this is a great ride. Well, the winds weren’t my friends today either. But if you want to stay on a trail, you can ride traffic-free from the Jamestown Settlement 50+ miles back to Richmond.
Richmond
There is a 6-7 mile ride from Williamsburg to Jamestown on the road but the last time I rode this I met a couple who took their bikes from the train in Williamsburg on a bus to Jamestown so they never rode in traffic. Not for me but that’s a nice way to do it.
It was a most beautiful day. Tim and I drove to Richmond and parked at the Great Shiplock Park which is about one mile from the Richmond Main Station. We rode to the station and waited.
Tim and the Great Shiplock Park
If only someone knew how to run a train. Sigh. A woman greeted us (nice) and told us the train was running late. Still under pandemic protocols, most of the large open station was closed off so people had to be in one area. The doors to the outdoor platform where one could breathe fresh air were locked.
Entrance to Main Station, Richmond
When the train arrived and arriving passengers disembarked they could not open the doors to get into the station. And we could not leave to get to the platform. Finally (maybe no more than two minutes but for some people, it probably seemed much longer), an employee came and opened the doors.
Great Shiplock Park (viewed from Amtrak)
Tim and I rolled our bikes onto the platform. The conductor said he had a bike rack in this car and “back there.” I guess I took this one and Tim went back there. We went to separate cars.
My bike aboard the train (ready to disembark)
The rack had one hook and I tried to hang my front wheel but the hook didn’t like a deeper rim that I had. I was able to turn it just right and hang it. I then saw an instruction sign that said to remove the front wheel. Not sure how that would have worked. I didn’t have my tool to remove the wheel readily available.
That also tells me Amtrak is not accommodating of many bikes. They must anticipate quick-release skewers which have been replaced by through-axles. Depending on the bike you may need a special tool to remove the wheel. I use a mini-rachet which I did not have with me. For an emergency, I could get to one in a tool kit inside my frame. As for bikes with bolted-on front wheels, they would be out of luck too. Amtrak can do better if they want to.
About halfway through the ride I put the bike in a luggage area. It fit better. I actually through we were approaching Williamsburg and was getting ready. But we weren’t.
Williamsburg, Va.
Once in Williamsburg, we rolled down through Duke of Glocester Street in Colonial Williamsburg. Very slowly. If Tim wanted a faster average speed today I killed it in Colonial Williamsburg.
Governor’s Palace, Colonial Williamsburg
Rather than take John Tyler Highway directly to Jamestown to meet the trail, my mapping took us through some residential areas. They were very pretty but I’m not sure about the benefit. The highway did have a bike lane for much of it. I think the only section it did not was where we finally picked it up.
Williamsburg
We passed a Taco Bell and grabbed a not-so-quick bite to eat knowing that food options were limited on the ride. It was 11:30 a.m.
Taco Bell, Williamsburg
The trail in Jamestown was easy to find. The Virginia Capital Trail is a paved and boardwalk trail that follows the Rte. 5 corridor. While next to the highway almost all of it has a strand of trees between it and the road. When there is no traffic going by one does not see the road and it appears it is a trail in the woods.
Jamestown Settlement
There are not many provisions on the trail. I had forgotten there was a very nice-looking deli restaurant at Mile 2.5 (Spokes + Art Provisions Co.). At Charles City, there is Haupts gas station which has some good fried chicken. Also in Charles City, there is Cul’s Courthouse Grille. And then northing until Mile 48.
The long bridge at MP1
We had a wonderful headwind most of the way. But it was 72º and it was great.
A deer is outstanding in his field
At Kingsland Road we left the trail as I opted for some back roads which added two to three miles. Tim was okay with that because he wanted to make sure we rode a metric century (100 km or 62.14 miles). The mileage would do that. These were roads used in the Climb to Conquer Cancer that I have ridder before. And I approved.
Chickahominy River
We stopped for water when we got back to the trail, around Mile 48 . There is a new 7-Eleven opening soon but was a store across the highway as well. Tim got water for the last five miles and we began the nice mostly downhill ride to Richmond.
Chickahominy River
I don’t know what picture I had painted of Libby Hill but I think Tim was picturing Mount Washington and not Libby Hill. When we got to Rocket’s Landing I could see the monument atop Libby Hill and pointed that out to Tim. I think he was relieved to see that it wasn’t far away and it wasn’t very high.
Richmond in the distance
I wanted Libby Hill. Twice I raced it as a timed climb in the Climb to Conquer Cancer. Both times I finished at 0:53. Three weeks ago my time was good enough to win the 65-69 age group at the event. The problem for me is they had a 60-69 age group. I never saw official results and could not easily determine on Strava who I may have lost to but the most important person I am racing is me. And I wanted a good race time today.
Church, Williamsburg, Va.
We came to the gated entrance (no vehicles permitted) and I showed Tim the climb. He thought it might take him four minutes. I pointed out that even if he went half as fast as me he’d still be there in under two minutes.
The trail
I was hoping for one second. I hit the climb from a dead stop. The bike started to bounce. I made the hard left onto the climb and felt the rear wheel slip on the wet cobbles as here there is always some runoff or drainage across the road. It’s about 6″-12″ at best (worst).
One of the boardwalk bridges on the trail
My helmet, which I thought was tight, was moving as were my sunglasses. I never looked at my Wahoo Live Segments to see if I was ahead or behind my PR pace.
Near Great Shiplock Park, passing underneath the train tracks, Richmond
Halfway up is the sharp right-hander. Once I turned it I got out of the saddle. Three weeks ago I tried standing here and the bike bounced so much I sat back down. Today I stood and let the bike bounce.
Strava showed me 0:47. Strava disagreed.
I’m not sure if I was out of the saddle the rest of the way or if I sat. But I went across the top and saw the time – 0:47.
Horses in Williamsburg
I killed it. I destroyed my previous best time. Then I saw Tim was coming and I was encouraging him as well. And in his first time, he came in 1:33. Excellent! Being his first time he now has a marker for a PR for the next time as well.
I beat Libby Hill. Credit: Tim
Officially, Strava would record my time as 0:48. I still destroyed it. And maybe the next cancer climb, a 0:48 would be good enough for the 60-69 group. (They should align with Strava’s 65-69 group but that’s a different discussion.)
The top two times were done on trainers and not actually at Libby Hill
We descended back to the car. Tim saw a parking lot that looked promising to cut through although we didn’t need to. But it had two bridges which led to Stone Brewing. When we exited we were in the outdor cafe area of the brewery. Oops. Let us ride between your tables. We went through the parking lot and were back on the trail only 400 meters from where we parked. In all we rode through three of Virginia’s capitals through history, Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Richmond.
The goal: Park in Richmond, take a train to Williamsburg and ride back on the Virginia Capital Trail.
I was thinking Union Station in D.C. with its six-level parking garage. In Richmond, I found nothing other than a mostly vacant lot near the train station which needed a parking app. I drove a few blocks away and found on-street parking. After all, I was riding a bike today so it really didn’t matter how far away I parked.
Richmond Main Train Station
The area where I parked seemed a little sketchy. Next time: I will park at the trailhead at the bottom of Pear St. then bike to the station.
Inside Richmond station
Like so many U.S. train stations, the Richmond Main Station is a treasure. What a beautiful building. It was, however, lacking in signage. I had no idea which track my train was arriving on or how late it would be. It was scheduled at 10:03 a.m. but had not arrived by then.
I had made a bike reservation so someone should have known that I was boarding with a bike. The baggage car was at the front of the train. There was one boarding area, in the middle, where the conductor checked our tickets.
Richmond Main
I had to enter the middle of the train. When I asked the conductor where I should put my bike he said “anywhere.” I was expecting two hooks per car but found none. One we got rolling he walked it through two cars to the baggage car and hung it on a hook.
The train ride could have been enjoyable The windows were filthy dirty and it seemed the engineer loved blowing that train whistle. Seems to me that there should be better ways in 2019 to warn people of an oncoming train rather than a whistle. I’m not sure I ever heard a train in Switzerland use one.
Dirty windows
With the glare of the sun hitting those windows, it was hard to see any scenery. But mostly it was a forested area from Richmond to Williamsburg.
The seats were much better than the last time I rode a train. Only the constant whistle kept it from being truly enjoyable.
At the Williamsburg station, I had to exit from the middle of the train then walk back up to the front to pick up my bike. Seems the two cyclists would have been better served to exit with their bikes.
Colonial Williamsburg
I had no clue where I was but then – I was in Colonial Williamsburg. I rode the traffic-free streets for a few minutes then found Rte. 5 towards Jamestown.
Arriving at Jamestown Settlement, I met Terry Moran. We would ride together the first 13 miles of the Virginia Capital Trail before he would turn around and go back to his Williamsburg home.
Terry Moran
The trail begins here and is a 51-mile bike trail from Richmond to Jamestown. It is 98% trail with two small portions at Charles City diverted to the street as well as one section of about 1/4 mile near Richmond.
If you love wooden boardwalks this is the trail for you. Every mile it seems you cross one of the bridges. All are in great shape now but wonder if they will hold up in 10-15 years. But enjoy them now. They are great!
Terry rides into the distance
The eastern section is pancake flat. It is situated in the Middle Peninsula section. It is wooded with its share of wooden bridges as it follows Rte 5.
Chickahominy River
At MP 6 (or 7) the trail crosses the Chickahominy River. There is a separate bike lane on either side or the cool kids can ride on the shoulder on the highway.
Crossing the Chickahominy River
Once over the bridge, the trail continues with Charles City being the next landmark. Charles City Courthouse is at MP 21. There are little to no amenities on the trail so grab them when you see them.
Chickahominy River
Terry had turned around at MP 13. He suggested to me that I stop at the Citgo service station at Charles City – for their fried chicken. I came to Haupt’s Country Store and at first, kept going. But then I smelled the chicken and went inside. Chicken by the piece was $2.65 for a breast and roll. It was good but there was no seating area, not even a bench outside.
Haupt’s Country Store
At Charles City, the trail disappeared into the street for a couple hundred yards. I passed Cut’s Courthouse Grille and saw some bicycles parked outside. That is your restaurant option if you want sit-down. At the Citgo Station, I stood next to a trash can.
Did you know this?
After Charles City, I entered the plantation area. Shirley. Berkeley. Sherwood Forest.
Once in Henrico County, the trail went from flat to rolling. The rustle of dried leaves cracked beneath my tires. It was still wooded in many sections and the Fall leaves were covering the trail.
Another bridge – all are in great shape
Fueled by my piece of chicken, I averaged 17 mph from Charles City to Richmond. My time at either end, Williamsburg and Richmond, slowed my average speed as I was site-seeing in Williamsburg and climbing Libby Hill in Richmond.
Four-Mile Creek Park
As I got closer to Richmond the trail became familiar to me. I stopped here in April and had ridden part of this before.
The trail goes under I-295 and is the only place there is considerable road noise.
Mile 51 in Richmond
As I got close to Richmond, I remembered some of this trail from having ridden it four years ago when I volunteered at the UCI World Championships. But some of it was also new to me.
James River, Richmond
Rather than finish the last quarter-mile of the trail, I turned off it to go up Libby Hill and find where I was parked. At Libby Hill, there was a chain across the entrance. After 10-15 seconds of thought, I decided that was for automobiles. There was an opening for a bike and I rode up the famous Libby Hill – as I did three times last month.
The cobbles on Libby Hill
At the top I needed to find my way to my car. I was on Richmond Hill and the street where I parked, Grace Street, did not continue because of a cliff.
sN. 23rd St is a cobbled street that looks to be 12% grade going down. I decided not to ride down it, afraid of my traction while bouncing on the cobbles. The sidewalk presented a good option and I carefully went down the sidewalk. However, at the bottom, it becomes steps.
Richmond Hill – It’s steep – need steps
It was a 60-mile day. It was a beautiful day. I would recommend this again although I would think I would like to add the Jamestown Ferry as an option and ride on the south side of the James to Rte 156.
