A Cancer Survivor's Journey to Find Peace on a Bike
You have stumbled upon the personal blog of Barry Sherry. It is my private journal but made public. After keeping a journal for years I decided to push this out to the web. Maybe someone will find some information of value.
I have included the names, and in some cases, photos of others I have met in my journey. If you are mentioned and do not want to be, kindly contact me and I can change that.
Enjoy the blog. If you would like to know more about me, click my About Me page.
*as of Jan. 2024
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA
DRAFT
This is one of my favorite rides, even though it doesn’t have a ferry. In a nutshell, take the Amtrak from Richmond to Williamsburg and then ride back to Richmond. My bike ($20) cost more than my fare ($12).
There was a crash on I-95 South near Quantico this morning. Waze took me out to Joplin Road before getting on the Interstate. My ETA for Great Shiplock Park was 9:48 a.m. The train was scheduled to depart at 10:03 a.m.
I passed the Richmond Main Station and saw plenty of parking available but at what cost? I always drive to Great Shiplock Park, a neat little park about one mile from the train station, for free. I arrived and went through my mental exercise. Bike computer, Speaker, Front light, Rear light. Garmin radar (rear). Two bottles. Ice. Water. Food in my pockets. Check air pressure.
I was out of the lot at 9:55 a.m. to make my 10:00 train. Four minutes and two seconds later I was in the building. Elevator to the second floor and out to the platform.
I asked the conductor which car and he said to pick one. I did and they did not have the bike “rack” set up. I leaned my bike on the bulkhead, preferring that to taking off a wheel and hanging it. From Richmond to Williamsburg is one hour and no stops so I knew more passengers would not be boarding the train down the line.
When the conductor came by he didn’t say a word, I suspect he didn’t want to change the luggage rack into a bike rack either.
I did a quick “tour” of Colonial Williamsburg and then found a course on my Wahoo and followed it. It featured some side streets which I don’t remember riding before but probably did.
The trail was thick with leaves in places which made seeing the trail difficult at times.
I rode into a strong wind the entire time.
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I stopped at Haupt’s Grocery in Charles City and got a chicken breast. I could tell I needed something although I had my pockets full of cycling food.
At Shirley Plantation, I came upon a cotton field. I didn’t know they grew cotton in Virginia.
Some of the trail is wooded which gave protection from the winds. Other sections were out in the open in which the wind and sun took it’s toll on me. It was 82 degrees today.
Arriving in Richmond I made my way over to Libby Hill Park. I was hoping to see if I could beat my PR on the climb but never could find my line. The cobbles will beat you up. I sucked today.
Notwithstanding not getting a PR at Libby Park, this is a great ride. Well, the winds weren’t my friends today either. But if you want to stay on a trail, you can ride traffic-free from the Jamestown Settlement 50+ miles back to Richmond.
There is a 6-7 mile ride from Williamsburg to Jamestown on the road but the last time I rode this I met a couple who took their bikes from the train in Williamsburg on a bus to Jamestown so they never rode in traffic. Not for me but that’s a nice way to do it.
EASTON, MARYLAND
The cool weather of the last week was a stark reminder that the seasons are turning. I had hoped to go to Jim Thorpe, Pa. for a ride on the Delaware & Lehigh Trail (D&L) but that will have to wait until next year. The weather forecast was absolutely beautiful for today and I got my car back after a week in the shop. Time for a road trip.
I was leaning towards making this trip but only if I woke up early enough on my own. And to get there at a decent time it has to be early. I don’t do alarms. When I woke up early the road trip was on. I headed to Easton, Maryland.
There was nothing unfamiliar about this ride. This would be the 11th time I have done some variation of this ride, all since 2022. I know these roads. I love these roads.
From Easton, one can ride to St. Michaels by “land” or by “sea.” My usual route had been to take St. Michaels Road out from Easton but in August and today, I decided to take the water route. I parked at Idlewild Park and rode straight to Oxford where I would board the Oxford-Belleview Ferry to cross the Tred Avon River.
Today’s route was simple. Ride to Tilghman Island and back. When I arrived in Oxford I saw the ferry about halfway across the river. It is a 10-minute crossing but when the ferry arrived the captain came off and walked to the restroom. The Talbot does not have a restroom onboard and captains have to pee too.
A very nice older man was the ticket taker. He had a cheat sheet of prices and before he could reach for it to see the bike fare I made it easier for him by giving him the $7 fare. He admired my bike and told me he just had service on his 1980 Trek. We chatted a bit about riding.
There were two cars on the boat going over to Bellevue. When we arrived a car that had been waiting on the Bellevue side started coming down the access pier to board the ferry. The problem was there were still boats on the ferry that needed to leave. The approach is one lane wide. The captain got off the boat and gestured for the driver to back all the way back to shore so we could depart. There is a sign at the entrance not to drive on until the cars have disembarked. Some people.
I rode from Bellevue out to St. Michaels Road. I discovered the shoulder had just been milled and sprayed with tar. That would not work. I could not ride on that. The road has wide shoulders on both sides so I rode on the left shoulder against traffic but only for about 300 meters until I found new pavement.
I was riding 100 km (62 miles) today and roughly 50 miles of that was on a wide traffic-free shoulder. The road from the ferry to St. Michaels Road is a 4.5-mile two-lane country road but always with light traffic. And on Tilghman Island the road becomes two-lane, but with super light traffic.
I changed the display on my Wahoo to not show speed. I wanted to ride without ever looking at how fast I was going. Today was a ride just to ride.
The choice of the day was perfect because of the weather. The downside was the Scottish Highlands Creamery was closed today. It’s always nice with 10 miles remaining to stop for ice cream.
When I arrived back at the car I stopped my Wahoo and uploaded my ride. I was surprised to see that I averaged 17.1 mph today. Solo. It was faster than when I rode in August.
I wanted to ride as fast as I did in August (17.0) but I never wanted to be watching my speed and thinking I needed to increase my pace. This was a relaxing ride and the higher speed made it even better.
HARRISONBURG, VIRGINIA
It was a rough week with illness. I did no riding most of the week opting instead for heavy doses of Nyquil and daily naps. I didn’t think I would ride on Thursday but snuck in the Thursday evening club ride of just 15 miles. On Friday I rode with Tim but pulled the plug at 24 miles.
Yesterday was a private VIP ride with Jeremiah Bishop for top fundraisers for the Cancer Journeys Foundation / Prostate Cancer Awareness Project. I went from thinking I would miss the event early in the week to downgrading the distance I would ride. First I changed from 100 miles (Gran) to the Metric Century (65 miles/ Medio) and then I switched to the Valley View Adventure (36 miles / Piccolo).
I suffered on the VIP ride even though it was an easy-paced ride. I had ridden to the ride from my hotel in Harrisonburg so my final mile was uphill back to the Hampton Inn & Suites (University). I thought I might have to pull into a parking lot partway up just to catch my breath.
I never thought about not riding today. The only question was how far. And did I want to change my ride category yet again? I opted for the shortest route, the Piccolo or Valley View Challenge (36 miles / 2600′)
At 8:00 a.m. I was called up to the front of the group for photos and the rollout. I’m always at the front as prostate cancer survivors are invited to come to the front. That means photo time as we roll out of town. I knew that Robert and I would be riding together on the Piccolo route. And as we rolled through town I willingly started slipping back through the group. And he slipped farther back.
Just two miles into the course the route makes a sharp right turn onto Switchboard Road. The next six miles are on a narrow country road and a few hundred riders squeezed together create an accordion effect. It’s generally not an enjoyable experience. Actually, those eight miles are my least favorite miles of the route simply because the road is too crowded and some riders are a little too peppy.
Today I hung on the back of the group trying to gauge my breathing. If I needed to bail out early, I would. At the turn where the routes split, I stopped and waited for Robert and some other riders. Cool at the start I used the wait time to remove a T-shirt I had been wearing. I had been sweating and the cool mountain air felt good.
I went into today just wanting to enjoy the weather – the best ever in 14 years of the Alpine Loop Gran Fondo. This event supports prostate cancer and I saw it as fortuitous that my bib was #15 as next month I will be 15 years cancer-free.
It seemed in almost no time we reached the rest stop. I was truly caught by surprised that we were there that quickly. It’s not that we were riding fast, we weren’t, it’s just that the time flew by in conversation. This was also the starting point a mile down the road for a 22-mile loop. Fudge the math a little but this is the difference between the Valley Adventure ride and a Metric Century.
I had been chatting with a guy and he left the rest stop before we did stating, “I know you’ll catch up with me.” Well, no we won’t if you ride the Metric and we don’t which is what happened. Nice guy but I never saw him again.
My Whoop band had my recovery in yellow, the 12th straight day I have been unable to have a full recovery. But this was the first day in the last seven that I started to feel better. I thought about changing my route to the Metric, even on course, but I also worried that I might bonk around Mile 50. I didn’t know how one week of illness might affect me so I stayed with the shorter route. Plus I was enjoying the company.
I let myself think of one goal. There was a sprint section on course. Last year I had a sneak peek at it without actually racing it. I had gone for a timing chip at check-in but wasn’t doing the mountain route. I asked a volunteer if I needed one and they said I did not. Of course, they were wrong. But since I didn’t have a timing chip when I came to it I offered to pace a woman on my wheel and maybe help her get on the podium. She didn’t hold my wheel and I had a decent time but didn’t push it. But I thought my pace that day put me in the running if I would try.
I had dropped behind my group. I stopped on the one-lane bridge for a photo op. The group rolled ahead without me. I had no stamina. I didn’t expect that I would.
Being alone and not being distracted by a conversation, I was looking for the sprint start. It was well marked and almost invisible. There was a vertical banner flag marking it but if you weren’t looking for it you might not see it until crossing the timing mat that marked the spot.
I saw Robert and John about 100 meters ahead of me. I saw them cross the timing mat and both started their sprints. I ramped it up and took off. It was the best that I felt in over a week. Robert and John who had been 100 meters in front of me were a bit surprised when I flew past.
My feeling of strength would not last. The segment was 800 meters long and around 600 meters I faded badly. I wanted to get out of the saddle and spring the last 200 meters but coulnd’t stand. I just didn’t have it.
Yet, as I crossed the line I saw that I had set a PR on a similar segment on Strava so I thought I did okay. The exact timing of this segment was not a Strava segment. It was my best time on this segment. It wouldn’t be known until we finished how I actually finished compared to others.
A group of four of us came to Mole Hill. The climb before Mole Hill may have been tougher and I went up first and then waited for the others. Robert was taping and let those two go ahead. I wanted to go last and pass everyone on the climb. One of the guys was up the road by at least 200 meters before I hit the start line.
I took off and quickly passed my two rabbits up the road. I didn’t consider this as a KOM and didn’t go all out. I wanted the sprint segment and was happy with that effort. Robert said something about racing for socks so I knew a jersey wasn’t on the line. I was happy with my effort and know I could have gone deeper but why bother? I didn’t understand all that was on offer.
Back at the finish line I got a text that I was on the podium. Third, second, or first? When they announced the sprint results for 65-69 they called two names but not my name. And then I was in first. Nice.
There was a second podium for the Gran Fondo Series. I’m still trying to understand all the timing. When I got home I could see that not only did I win my age group, I would have taken second place overall with no age categories, losing only to a 45-year-old from Wisconsin.
I am pretty stoked about this PR / podium. I saw the sprint segment last year and perhaps in 2021. There was no event in 2022. I wanted to train for it but my illness kept me from training and from having the stamina necessary. I normally would be able to maintain my spring the entire distance.
While I am very happy for the podium I am also aware that this was in the Piccolo group, the shortest route available. Most stronger riders would choose a longer ride. So I went and checked my time against everyone in my age group in all the categories. I wish I could say I was first overall but I wasn’t. I was second overall. Second.
I am pretty happy about that. I also realized that my time was done after 40 miles in the legs and not 65 or 100 miles. I accept that. But it bodes well for next year and I will be changing age groups as well. Bring it on!
HARRISONBURG, VIRGINIA
Today was a special day – the Alpine Loop Fran Fondo VIP Ride for top fundraisers. This event was on my calendar all year but as the time approached I did not feel well.
I had something respiratory. Tuesday and Wednesday were spent napping. Nyquill was my best friend. I wasn’t feeling like a ride on Thursday but by 5:30 decided to try the Thursday Night Ride. It went okay.
Yesterday Tim and I headed out to Bastable Mill Road for a 32-mile ride with bailout options. I chose one that cut it to 24 miles. I had no energy.
I had been targeting this event for some age group KOMs. Those were gone. My fitness was gone. It may have peaked in August with the ferry rides. I changed my registration for tomorrow from 100 miles to the Metric Century (65 miles).
Our VIP ride met at the bike shop. It was great to see Jeremiah and Erin as well as Robert, the founder of Cancer Journeys Foundation. We had nine riders for our VIP country ride. This area is nestled between the Blue Ridge Mountains and Skyline Drive to the east and the Shenandoah Mountains and the West Virginia state line to the west. While technically the Shenandoah Valley, this valley is anything but flat.
We rolled out and rode as a group. I was testing my fitness and failing. I’m not congested but never felt I could get a deep breath. I was short on nutrition this week – oatmeal was my dinner last evening. I needed to see how I felt for yet another decision.
As we rolled along, someone had a flat in the group. I convinced Robert to ride ahead with me and not wait for the guy fixing the flat. I told him we would soft pedal while waiting for them but of course, I meant we would ride normally and still be caught.
The ride ended at the bike shop and registration tent. However, that was an hour away. I had ridden from the hotel and decided to ride back to the hotel. Normally I would ride back and then return by bike. But the climb back to the hotel drained me. I showered and then drove back to registration.
At registration, I was asked to confirm that I was going to ride the Metric course. And I said to downgrade me again to the 38-mile route. If I had to I could ride the 65-mile route. But I would be going so deep on a depleted body that it would set my recovery back even further. I know things aren’t right because this is a ride I look forward to and I am dreading it. I need recovery which isn’t there.
Fingers crossed.
LANCASTER, VIRGINIA
Seventeen years ago I went to a Century ride in Kilmarnock, Va. That day we crossed a river on what I referred to as the Ottoman Ferry. I was trying to recreate much of that ride. I looked for ferries in Virginia and found two near each other in Virginia’s “Northern Neck.”
I mapped out a ride parking at the Hickory Hollow Nature Trail in Lancaster, Va. My plan was to ride to the Merry Point Ferry, turn around, then ride to the Sunnybank Ferry. I mapped out a Metric Century (62 miles or 100 km) but was very flexible depending on how the ride went.
I parked in a wooded nature area big enough for perhaps four cars. It was country but there were a couple of houses across the road. I started my Wahoo and immediately had a Pit Bull (or mix) come charging at me. I had just started and there was no way I could get up to speed and escape.
I stopped and yelled “GO HOME!” while trying to make myself bigger. I was ready to dismount and use my bike to protect me when a truck pulling a flatbed trailer came up the road. The dog saw this and went back. The driver saw this confrontation and stopped between me and the dog. I was able to slip away unnoticed but for the next couple of minutes, I kept checking to see if the dog was chasing me.
I made my way to the Merry Point Ferry on Ottoman Ferry Road. This was the one I crossed 17 years ago. The captain or operator, John, was very nice. He was impressed that I planned to ride both ferries and told me to say hello to John who was operating the next ferry in my trip.
After crossing the Western Branch of the Corrotman River, I rode about one mile and then turned around and went back to the ferry.
I had planned to ride past where I had parked but checked my map and found a different route to my next destination. I had to avoid the dog.
The route was flat and mostly on country roads. I crossed the Great Wicomico River and then headed to Sunnback and the Sunnybank Ferry. I said hello to John who was surprised I knew his name. I was the only one on the ferry and about halfway across the Little Wicomico River John asked me if we could go back. A car was pulling up and he wanted to go back and pick it up.
I was in no hurry and told him that would be fine by me. But then he had second thoughts and we continued to the trip. To make it easier when we arrived at shore I stepped over the retaining rope and was able to walk around the gate so he did not have to disembark to take care of that. We almost hit the shore when he ] reversed it and went back for the car on the other side
I found an entrance to a development using Brammer Drive, next to the Chesapeake Bay. And a second dog chased me. Did I wear something dogs like today? Geez!
The ride back was a loop and then retraced much of what I had ridden.
Closer to Reedsville the roads became “heavy,” a cyclist description of rough asphault. Not potoles but more like the original surface without the smooth finishing coat. These roads are harder to pedal on an will wear one out sooner. There weren’t shoulders here and traffic increased.
Nice crossing of the Sunnybank Ferry (Sam)
It was a fun ride although I was shaken from the dog attack at the beginning. I was going to ride a metric century (62 miles) but cut it a little bit short. I may do a variation of this again but always with a watch out for the canines.
LEWES, DELAWARE
The challenge: Circumvent the Delaware Bay. The route was relatively straightforward. Go up through Delaware and return through New Jersey. Crossing the Delaware River by bike took some planning.
I utilized the mapping features of RidewithGPS and drew a ride from Lewes to Delaware City. The first was using the app and it produced a 97-mile route. The second used the website and it produced an 80-mile route. That’s a big difference mostly involving one hour of riding time.
That time would be significant. Saving “the best until last” I wanted to ride most of the day and then finish my day with a ferry ride. If I rode from south to north I would be racing to meet the last departure of the ferry for the day – a 3:00 p.m. boat from Delaware City to Pea Patch Island then to Fort Mott, N.J.
The Cape May-Lewes Ferry runs all day so there was no time constraint in rushing to meet its schedule other than what I would impose on myself by the reservation I made. The Forts Ferry Crossing operates Wednesday – Sunday from 9:30 until 3:00 in summer and weekends only in May and September.
Granted, the simplest would be to ride counterclockwise. Leaving Lewes I could catch an early morning ferry on Friday and then catch the 9:30 a.m. ferry in Fort Mott, New Jersey on Saturday. But it is nice looking forward to a ferry at the end of a ride. It is not nice to monitor the time during the ride and even skipping lunch because of a ferry schedule.
I contacted my friend, Branan, who lives in southeastern Pa. for a recommendation. He in turn connected me with his friend, Marty, who is from Delaware. Marty and I discussed logistics. As long as the ferry was an option I was going to utilize it. The closest bridge crossing is not until the Ben Franklin Bridge in Philadelphia – a 90-mile detour.
Websites are great but few can answer every question or permeation that one may have. I couldn’t figure out with certainty whether I could take my bike and take this ferry across Delaware. Where is George Washington when you need him?
On Wednesday, the day before I left, I called the ticket office for the ferry. I was told I could take my bike. Just be sure to arrive before the last ferry (3:00). Buy a ticket in the office, no need to do it online in advance. Board the boat to the island. Stay on the boat then go to Fort Mott. It sounded simple.
Yesterday I went to Easton, Maryland, and rode out to Tilghman Island. I was chasing miles because on June 23 I was 970 miles behind my plan for the year. I also wanted a flat ride to get a good measure of my speed. I came in at 17.0 mph (27 kph) and wanted to use that to determine my riding time to Delaware City. I determined I should leave by 8:00 a.m. to allow myself plenty of time to make the boat.
Lodging was at Home2Suites by Hilton in Lewes. I should have checked in advance for the parking situation because I did not know before I checked in whether I could leave my car for an extra day. I could. They have plenty of open space next to the hotel and Cletis said there would be no problem leaving the car for a day while I rode to Pennsville for the night.
The night was short. There was an alarm in the room that had been set for 5:15 a.m. Not my alarm. Not my setting. Not a great way to start the day. I did try to go back to sleep for an hour or so but my Whoop Recovery was still in the red (33%). Well, here goes …
I was 23 minutes later leaving the hotel than I wanted. I was on the road at 8:23 a.m. It was windy. Most of the day it felt like I was fighting a headwind and my “windsock” measurement shows my longest continuous headwind was for three hours and two minutes. It was tough riding.
Destination: Delaware City. Fort Mott. Pennsville. I was only slightly confused leaving the hotel trying to find the direction my GPS wanted me to follow but soon found myself on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail.
The roads in southern Delaware were great. Mostly I had roads with wide shoulders. Magnolia was only 35 miles into the ride and Marty had suggested a water or food stop there because it was pretty barren the rest of the way. I did not need anything at that point nor did a convenience store jump out at me. Perhaps if I saw one if would have stopped. I didn’t.
From there it was a brief ride on Del. Rte 1, a busy 4-lane road with wide shoulders. After two km I turned onto Del. Rte 9 – a back road generally with no shoulders although occasionally there was room to ride to the right of the white line.
Marty examined the two different routes generated by RideWithGPS. Both went through Dover. He suggested the brief foray onto Del. Rte. 1 and to get to Rte 9 as soon as possible. RideWithGPS did not like this. I could not connect two points and be routed onto this road. This appears to be a mapping issue with Google Maps as they must have this road off-limits to bikes. RideWithGPS uses Google Maps on the back end.
In 2024 we can create or find a route we want to ride, upload that to our bike computer, and follow the map, not unlike a car’s mapping functions. The problem I had was I couldn’t map this section and had to resort to the feature of “drawing lines” instead of “following roads.” The only question I had on this ride was this section and my manual change to override the mapping feature worked perfectly.
I came to Little Creek (Mile 43) and saw the welcoming flags of OPEN that businesses will put out. I stopped at the Little Creek Grill. It has a small dining room and a counter. It was 11:30 a.m. and was packed. I had to ask one guy to stand up from his table to get past him to the cooler to grab water. I paid at the counter and thought that perhaps I should buy a second water to top off my second half-full bottle. He seemed bothered enough the first time. I didn’t try for a second.
At Mile 63 I was running short on water. I saw the welcome flags flying at an establishment and pulled in. It was Crab 73. I walked in and there was a man behind the counter with no shirt on. Two basins of crabs. But a refrigerator of water. $1 each. I took two. Thank god I found this place.
In reviewing the routes, Marty told me I had a better bridge crossing over the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. For some reason, I pictured that I avoided a very high bridge and was taking a back road with a draw bridge across the canal.
As I approached the Reddy Point Bridge I could see the road going up. It was an impressive sight to see rising above the otherwise pancake-flat horizon. My legs did not like the thought of a climb now.
It was two lanes, no shoulder. It was no different than the 80 miles behind me and I liked to think that now I was visible in a straight line with two brightly shining rear strobe lights. I would be okay. Maybe 10 vehicles, at most, passed me and all were respectful. The most annoying thing about the bridge was that there were large junction gaps in the bridge deck every 20 meters or so.
In Delaware City at 2:15 p.m. I went straight to the ferry ticket office to buy my ticket. A very nice woman sold me one for the 3:00 departure. I asked about the 2:30 and she told me I could board it but it would go to the island, return, and then leave at 3:00 for the island before heading to Fort Mott.
I informed her that I really wanted a burger. She wasn’t real sure of fast service at Crabby Dicks and recommended a sandwich shop, Sabatina’s. I entered the shop which was permeated by a rotten cigar smell. I bought a Coke Zero and left. I went for ice cream instead.
Sitting outside a shade-covered table, two young women and two kids came by with ice cream. They looked at the tables in the sun and I invited them to sit at my table for six in the shade. Nice family. They were babysitting the kids.
I went over to the ferry at 2:50 p.m. When I was sure everyone was off I walked up with my ticket. The man couldn’t have been nicer. He showed me where to put my bike. We left at 2:58 p.m. Hmm. Glad I didn’t show up at 3:00.
The ferry stopped at Pea Patch Island, dropped a couple of passengers then picked up more to continue to New Jersey. I had mapped a riverfront ride to the hotel and it worked perfectly.
The hotel was the Hampton Inn, Pennsville. At the front desk, the clerk was eating a sandwich and didn’t seem to want to be interrupted. I went to my room (digital check-in), showered, and then walked next door to the Cracker Barrel for dinner. Back at the hotel, I asked for the snack mix as my Diamond Member rewards. He said they were out. I asked for the cookies. He said they were out. “Water,” I finally told him.
PANIC ENSUES
While at Cracker Barrell I decided to book my trip on the Cape May-Lewes ferry for tomorrow. I brought up their website and clicked on the calendar date. There were no available times for sailing! I had looked earlier in the week and it seemed like everything was wide open. But no bookings were available. I screwed up.
My goal of circumventing the Bay just took a big hit. Did I want to stay an extra day instead? The answer is no, I did not. I would have to go back the way I came. Back over to the Delaware Forts Ferry website.
There is no ticket office at Fort Mott, New Jersey. One must buy a ticket in advance. I bought a ticket for Saturday morning at 9:30 a.m. – $11. The route back played out in my mind. It would be okay. Sleep a little later before hitting the road.
I went back to the Cape May-Lewes site once again. Maybe there was a cancellation. Then it dawned on me. I had been looking at today’s date for sailing.
When the body is tired the mind makes bad decisions.
Seems strange that nothing late showed as available but it actually wasn’t. The last boat had sailed. I checked for Saturday, Aug. 24 – and there were openings available all day.
I booked a fare for 2:30. Options included 1:00, 3:30, and 6:00 p.m. My original plan was back on.
JERSEY RIDING
I went to breakfast at the Hampton and out the door at 8:00 a.m. The weather was pleasant and just chilly enough I wore sunscreen arm protectors as arm warmers. The roads were surprisingly nice.
Virtually the entire way to Cape May I was on roads with wide shoulders. Also, the terrain tended to be rolling. No real hills per se but enough variability in the terrain to require me to shift gears often.
Bridgeton, N.J. was interesting. It reminded me of Portland, Oregon, minus the hipsters on their bikes doing track stands at the traffic lights. But it did have the same amount of broken glass along the shoulders. Wanting a nature break I saw the golden arches and thought I would use their restroom. In the entrance vestibule, I was going to bring in my bike but saw a “beater” bike already there. I thought if someone had to hide that bike there was no way I was going to slip inside for two minutes and leave my bike unguarded. I left.
Riding through Cumberland Co., I went past the New Jersey Motor Sports park – a noisy proposition for sure. Near Mauricetown I went “off script” and I’m not sure it was the right decision. But I think it was.
I had traveled 44 miles and was low on water. Unlike the last 40 miles in Delaware, there seemed to be gas sations and/or convenience stores most of the way to Cape May. But I saw a Wawa.
My rule of thumb while riding, especially long distances by myself, is never pass a Sheetz (without stopping). And here east of the Susquehanna, that applies to Wawa as well. I got two waters and was good to go. I checked my maps.
What I had mapped out weaved back and forth a bit headed down to Cape May. I was right next to the intersection with NJ 347 which looked to be a direct line to Cape May. I figured my original route was more on country roads and 347 was highway and I was right. I decided to take a peek and if it had a shoulder I would ride it.
I could feel my body tiring. I figured direct was better. I appears that I saved about four miles from my original route. I didn’t need the 15 minutes that I saved as much as I was glad to cut off miles. I started watching the clock.
The ferry departed at 2:30. Check-in was at 1:30 p.m. I still needed a ticket. I was glad to have shaved the miles.
One more convenience store and this time I bought water and a Coke Zero. The Coke would fit into my jersey pocket which as now empty of contents having eaten my way through the gels and food that I brought. A Snickers bar fit into my tightly packed backpack.
I departed the main highway and was in the residential area of North Cape May. No traffic but sometimes sandy streets and my route did not connect all the way through directly. On one street I must have had 20 straight blocks with a stop sign.
At the end of the street was a Dead End sign whereas my map on my Wahoo wanted me to go straight. I saw an officer and asked if the ferry was straight ahead. She pointed me up the road and told me there was a bicycle entrance.
I purchased my ticket online but I needed to trade that in for a paper ticket. I parked outside the terminal and went in. Maybe it was matching ID to the name in order to get the ticket. In most places the ticket on your phone is good enough but here you still need paper. Whatever it was, I got my ticket and was good to go. It was 1:41 p.m.
While I was waiting two guys came over to me to chat. One was on a motorcycle while the other was on an e-Bike. Both wanted to let me know that they ride “real” bikes when not on the machines they were riding that day.
It was 2:20 p.m. when the first passengers were invited to board – two bicyclists. There are bike racks amongst the cars. I removed my Wahoo and Garmin Varia Radar from the bike and left the bike unlocked. I just didn’t think someone would pick up my bike and put it in their car. And if they did – I would trust the AirTag in the bike to alert me to the location.
I went upstairs and grabbed a bite to eat. Found a table with USB ports, sat, and relaxed. The trip across the Bay took almost 90 minutes. It was 4:00 when we rolled off the deck.
From the terminal, it was four miles back to the hotel where I had left the car two days ago. It was an easy ride, and I was back on the Georgetown/Lewes Trail for another mile.
Back at the hotel, I was greeted by Cletis. “You made it!” he said. I was parched and while he retrieved my suitcase with my car key in it, he also told me to take whatever I wanted from their cooler. The water was so good. And so was a Coke Zero,.
With gratitude to Branan and Marty for their knowledge and advice.
Lessons Learned:
I went light. I took a clean kit for the second day. I think I could have gotten by with washing it in the shower or even using the hotel laundry so I didn’t carry a second kit. Or maybe just clean bibs and wash the jersey.
I had a mesh backpack with string straps. Go with real straps even if using a heavier backpack.
As much as I like saving the ferry ride for the last thing of the day, consider riding counterclockwise and hitting the ferry first thing. The Delaware ferry was an absolute 3:00 cutoff whereas Cape May was 2:30 but could have been made for 3:30 or 6:00 p.m. But on both days I was very aware that I had to make a time cutoff and I would not have that if I rode counterclockwise. Having a hard deadline adds a bit of stress.
The last 40 miles in Delaware from Dover to Delaware City on Rte 9 are mostly barren for supplies. Riding north to south in Delaware would place those 40 miles at the beginning of the ride instead of the end.
Fun adventure! Will I do it again? Doubtful. But I would like to. And I do recommend it. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes.
EASTON, MARYLAND
I have ridden out to St. Michaels and Tilghman Island 5-6 times from Easton but always by land. I elect to come back via the ferry. And that was my plan for today.
When I parked at Idlewild Park in Easton, a small neighborhood park, I made a decision to try something new. I would go out to the ferry as well as come back that way. Or at least give me the option of returning via ferry.
I was chasing miles. I am way behind on my mileage goal for the year so my goal today was a metric century (100 km or 62 miles). The roads here are nice. Flat. Most of the roads are two-lane with wide shoulders that often are marked as a bike lane but safe to travel in them when they’re not.
From Easton to Oxford it is 10 miles on a shoulder to the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry. After disembarking in Bellevue it is 4.5 miles on a narrow two-lane country road out to the main road to St. Michaels. Once on the main road, it is 15 miles farther to Tilghman’s Island. There is a wide shoulder the entire way except in St. Michaels.
One can stay on the main street through St. Michaels and share it with cars. It is signed for 25 mph so a bike traveling 20 mph is not much of a problem. One can cut through a beautiful neighborhood or even find a bike trail (slow) to avoid the downtown. If one stays on the street it is about two miles of “city” streets before exiting town and getting back on the shoulder.
At Tilghman Island the shoulder ends and if you follow the road to the end it’s another three miles on a sparsely traveled country road. The distance from Easton, via the ferry, to Tilghman Island is 32.5 miles (51 km) of which 22.5 miles has a wide shoulder. Beautiful riding.
The ride out to Oxford was nice. On board the ferry a young man came by to collect the fare – $7 (for bikes, one way). He asked me if I wanted a round trip and I asked how much that was, knowing the car ferry was not double the one-way fare. He told me $14. I declined. That left the option of returning by the land road should I want to.
The winds were windy. Out here next to the Chesapeake Bay, it seems always to be windy. But the route I chose was an “S” loop and was out and back. Unless the winds shifted during my ride I figure equal parts headwind, tailwind, and crosswinds.
On the ferry was one car. The driver came over to me and asked me about my riding. Where I was going (Tilghman Island) and how far (60 miles).
My goal was a metric century and when I reached 50 km at Tilghman Island it was a perfect turnaround point. But so too would be riding to the end of the island. I rode to the end.
I seemed to be okay on my fluids and did not stop in St. Michaels for more water on the way back. I continued on to the ferry. My “oasis” awaited – the Scottish Highlands Creamery in Oxford.
There was a different fare-taker on board this time. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the same person twice collecting fares. There were two cars on the ferry. The driver of one came over to me to see how far I rode. It was the same guy I talked to going over. I rode 45 miles and he and his wife ate lunch.
Besides collecting miles, another goal of today’s ride was to gauge my riding speed. I would need that for the timing of my Delaware Bay ride. I finished with an average of 17.0 mph (27.4 kph) which was only 0.8 less than the last time I rode and we rode in a double pace-line the entire time. This was good and set me up for tomorrow.
DISTANCE: 65 miles
SPEED: 17.0 MPH
ALTOONA, PENNSYLVANIA
My go-to climb in Blair County, Pa. has been Glenwhite Road from Horseshoe Curve to the top of the mountain. I climb it 3-4 times per year and always love it. I didn’t need anything different but I found something different.
While visiting my mother in Pennsylvania, I was looking to see if I could find a group ride in Blair County. I found the Blair Cycling Club on Facebook but didn’t find any group rides listed. Lots of cancellation notices. But I found something better. It looked like they have a “Mountain Challenge” ride every Tuesday. And they posted those along with a map file.
I found two challenges. On my way home I would stop and ride one. If it went well I would ride the second one if it wasn’t too far out of the way.
The two were the Baumgardner Mountain Challenge and the Williamsburg Mountain Challenge. I was familiar with the areas but not with the climbs. I thought the first one was one I had descended before – Sproul Mountain. When I got on the road I realized it wasn’t.
I drove to the tiny village of Imler. I parked at the fire department and then headed to Osterburg. There begins a one-mile climb to I-99. Once under the Interstate I turned on Mountain Road. This is a 2.5-mile climb over Baumgardner Mountain. As I climbed the gradient got progressively steeper until the last half mile was around 12%.
I was thinking it was an easy climb and thought I would go to the summit in the saddle. But as I climbed increasingly higher that goal gave way just to staying comfortable on the climb. I went over the top searching for the gradient sign and found one – 12% for two miles.
After turning around most of this ride was downhill or flat going back. It really was delightful. I thought I would look for one of Bedford County’s covered bridges if the route did not take me to one. But it did.
I went past the Bowser Covered Bridge. I stopped for a couple of photos and then headed back to the car.
Nice loop. I’d ride it again if the circumstances were right.
The second climb began in Williamsburg. This one would be a little out of the way. I decided if it was less than 45 minutes away I would do it. I turned on Waze and my ETA was 43 minutes. I honored the deal that I made with myself.
I knew Williamsburg mostly from being a rest stop on the MS rides from Hollidaysburg to State College. We always went in by rolling valley roads so I looked forward to seeing the climb.
On the way to Williamsburg on U.S. 22 I passed Turkey Valley Road and turned left. Just a quarter mile up the road is a bat house managed by the Pennsylvania Department of Natural Resources. But I know it was the former Canoe Creek E.U.B. Church. This was one of three of my dad’s first churches he was assigned to as a probationary pastor in 1958. The other two churches were East Freedom and Mount Moriah.
Just being here was to be in my dad’s presence once again. It brought me peace remembering him and his service to this community.
In Williamsburg, I parked at the trailhead. There is a rail trail here but I would be climbing and not taking the east 1% grade of the former train on the Lower Trail.
Immediatley I began climbing. It was a half-mile climb followed by a half-mile descent that I hated. I knew I would be added that half-mile back into the next climb. There was a little more than one mile of flat and then I hit the wall. The climb began in earnest. It started at 9-10% and never got easier. It was a 2.5-mile climb to the summit and stayed around 10% with some sections of 12%. It was a tough climb,
I’ve read ratings of climbs in the area. I like the Horseshoe Curve. I’ve also ridden Henrietta Mountain which is rated tougher. My memory could use a rain check on Henrietta – I think this was the toughest climb that I’ve done.
My glasses were covered in sweat. I tried to clean them at the top before turning around an descending but I was still sweating. I think I could have hit 50 mph on the descent if I could see the road clearly. I could not.
Near the bottom, I turned and made this into a 17-mile out-and-back loop ride. The valley was pretty and I enjoyed not just riding a nine-mile up and down mountain ride.
Back in Williamsburg, it was time for a treat. Ice cream at the end.
Bicycling Magazine published The 30 Hardest Hill Climbs in the World (most recently updated in 2022). I have always been more enthusiastic than talented but let me look at their list. Some I have done. Some I will never do (logistics mostly). And some I would like to do or do again.
The list:
The ones I have climbed are in bold. I came close to climbing the Mortirolo (#8) in 2014. I was on a Trek Travel trip in Italy and we were supposed to ride Mortirolo but we were rained out (they couldn’t get the support vans up there) and I never felt the need to get back there.
There are two on this list I may still do, Whiteface (4) in New York and Grimsel Pass (26) in Switzerland. I’d give myself about a 49% chance of climbing Whiteface and a 15% chance of Grimsel Pass.
Note: Since updating this to suggest that there was slightly less than a 50/50 chance of climbing Whiteface I realized I was confusing my mountains. I was thinking about Ascutney in southern Vermont, just off I-91. I may get to Ascutney, but I don’t think I will get to Whiteface.
Also, note to self: There is a nice primer on Swiss climbs if you’re serious about Grimsel Pass. And another at Cycling Challenge on the Gotthard Challenge and I will prioritize the Gotthard Challenge over Grimsel Pass.
I’ll keep climbing as long as I am able.
And now the new stuff. I introduce PDI – PJAMM Difficulty Index There is no perfect way to evaluate the difficulty of a climb, and indeed, it can be personal. A lightweight climber (not me) may find a longer steady climb more difficult than a shorter steeper climb. Likewise, a heavier rider may do better on long climbs but go into difficulty when the road turns steep. The PDI is an attempt to compare climbs. Your experience (and mine) may differ.
This looks at climbs I have done and is not a comparison of how difficult they are. The most difficult one listed here is Mount Washington, NH, and, IMHO, it’s not even close. Keep that in mind when looking at PDI.
And now the climbs, of the “Top 30,” I have done.
Mount Evans, Colorado
I first climbed Mount Evans in 2007 on a straight bar rental road bike. Then again in 2016 on my own bike – and I saw a bear! It was easier on my own bike after 400 miles and one week of riding in the Rockies. When I rode it in 2007 I said, “Never again.” And then rode it in 2016. I never learn. It is one of two climbs that I said, “Never again.”
Note: Mount Evans was renamed Mount Blue Sky in 2023.
Mount Lemmon, Arizona
This climb is absolutely beautiful. Just make sure you carry enough water. It is extremely dry and there are no water supplies until near the top. Camelbaks work. The locals know to start at 6:00 a.m. because it will bake. I climbed it in October 2011.
Mount Mitchell, North Carolina
Mount Mitchell is the highest point east of the Mississippi. It was never a bucket list climb for me but I climbed it in November 2020. Real cyclists can punish themselves by riding 100 miles from Spartanburg, South Carolina in the Assault on Mt. Mitchell.
Mount Washington, New Hampshire
Mount Washington, New Hampshire. The hardest of them all. I have ridden it nine times; the first time without changing my gearing. Two other times I was there the race was canceled (weather – of course).
The years: 2007*, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2021, 2022, 2023* (2007 and 2023 were canceled).
Mont Ventoux, France
If I only had a Whoop Band in 2011. I had driven about six hours, was locked out of my pre-paid chateau, and spent the night sleeping in my rental car. And then I climbed Mont Ventoux. It became rainy and very windy but I had one chance in my life to get to the summit so I did.
Passo dello Stelvio
Her 48 switchbacks are calling me back. I first rode it in 2014 and planned a side trip while in Switzerland in 2017 but warm turned to cold and sun turned to rain and snow on the beautiful pass. I probably will never get back but would love to ride this one again.
Gavia Pass
A cold, wet day in June, 2014, my iconic image is seeing a bunch a teenage boys pushing their bikes up the climb where we rode. This was the snow-covered pass made famous by Andy Hampsten when he rode into Giro d’Italia and cycling history in 1988 (although he did not win that day – Erik Breukink did).
Col du Galibier
July 19, 2011, was the coldest I have ever been on a bike. I rode to the summit of the Col du Lautaret as rain turned to snow and had to abandon my attempt to climb the Col du Galibier. I never thought I would get a second chance. But in 2024 I went to France with Cykelnerven and was able to climb the Col du Galibier.
Mount Baldy, California
One of Southern California’s toughest climbs, this seemed to be a staple in the Amgen Tour of California. It was never a bucket list climb for me but when I went to Phil Gaimon’s Cookie Gran Fondo in 2018 I made it a point to find this climb.
Col du Tourmalet
In 2011 I went up and over the summit and back up again to watch the Tour de France. In 2010 I climbed it from both sides but was stopped 4km from the summit by the police for the Tour de France. It’s tough.
I climbed this in its entirety but not all at the same time. In 2010 while on a Trek Travel trip, we started in Lourdes and rode this climb to within four kilometers of the summit. About six km down we had a tent for our viewing location but a number of us rode to the 4 km spot where the road was blocked off to the summit.
In 2011 I returned to France and rode up the Tourmalet from the Campon side. Riding with my friend, Adrian, we went over the top and started to descend this side of the mountain. My rear wheel had a wobble. When we reached the tent area of the last year we turned around and went back up the Tourmalet to make our viewing location at the summit.
In terms of miles, I climbed nine miles of this climb in 2010 and, by accident, rode the final 2.5 miles in 2011. It’s a bit longer on this side (11.5 v. 10.5 miles) and a little less steep (7.1% vs. 7.6%). I struggled from the other side on 2011 and would say this side is a bit easier despite the PJAMM score of 28.6 vs. 28.4.
Alpe d’Huez
Another iconic climb. Probably the second one I would most like to repeat (after Stelvio).
And that is it. It’s a nice list of 30 climbs. According to the PDI (PJamm Difficulty Index, the three most difficult are Mt. Washington (NH), Mount Evans (CO), and Stelvio Pass. Personally, Mount Washington is much harder than Mount Evans or Stelvio Pass. For my type of riding the steepness of Mount Washington is a killer. It’s the only climb that I have to change the gearing of my bike.
I would put Mount Evans second because it along with Mount Washington are the only two climbs that I said, “Never again” immediately when I finished.
I will add one more.
Gotthard Pass, Switzerland
I would submit that the PDI completely misses on this climb in Switzerland. Granted, of the climbs in the list that I have done, the difficulty level of the Gotthard Pass is the easiest. I include it for the scenery, the switchbacks, and the surface. It’s almost eight miles of cobblestones. The difficulty level of riding on cobblestones increases greatly because of this road surface. It definitely belongs.
