I Love France (and You Too Switzerland)

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

Once upon a time, I thought I’d use this day to circumvent Lake Geneva, a distance of about 110 miles. However, I realized the bike rental location I was going to use wanted a two-day rental at 40 CHF per day. Plus the weather forecast called for a 90% chance of thunderstorms. The ride was off.

Geneva Train Station

Well, the big ride was off. Staying one block from the train station, I found a bike rental location called Geneva Roule which was on the other side of the train station. For 25 CHF I rented a BMC road bike for the day. I thought that was a good deal. Actually, it was a great deal.

Geneva Roule

I did not know where I was going. I was negotiating 100% by “feel” and just a little knowledge. This can be dangerous. Or fun. I knew the train station was north and west of the Rhône river so I looked at the sun and headed south. And east.

Geneva

There are many bike lanes in Geneva. Some are marked along with bus and taxi lanes and many run the same direction as the trolley tracks. Be very careful my friends.

Geneva

I crossed a bridge and then started my ride following Lake Geneva. I reasoned if I stayed close to the lake I could not get lost. My original ride plan which would take me around the lake was simply using the roads that were hugging the lake.

Geneva – Rhône River

I was on city streets and saw there was a bike path next to the lake so I jumped on it. At Vesanaz the road peeled away from the lake. I went through a construction area and dropped most of the traffic as I continued on the back road.

Geneva – Bike Lane painted leaving traffic with 1 1/2 lanes instead of two lanes

On the road out of Geneva the bike lane is a bit higher than the regular lane and a bit lower than the walking lane. Each separated by an angled “curb.” Or sometimes the pedestrian lane was simply divided by paint.

Geneva – Bike and Pedestrian lanes using angled curbs

And then it happened. I was going through Hermance, Switzerland and was going up the road, a slight climb, with some gravel on the road and a park with a soccer field to the left. Maybe it was Chens le Pont or Sous le Cret. Or maybe even Lagraie. Those are small towns within two kilometers (one mile) of one another.

I think the Province/Region sign is behind this construction sign
Welcome to France

It just seemed French and no longer Swiss. And I noticed a road sign, D 20.

I AM IN FRANCE!

French Road Signs
I am in France!

I think I was expecting a welcome sign. A Bienvenue sign. I doubted there would be passport control. But I was riding and had this moment — I am riding in France. And it was great. I was smiling.

I liked Italy. I like Switzerland. But there is just something about France. I love riding here. From my first time with Trek Travel in 2010 and then again three years ago when I did a solo trip. I love it here.

Commune de Nernier, France
(Is this private property?)

I had angst yesterday traveling from Tirano, Italy to Geneva. It was a long, but beautiful, day on multiple (four) trains. I worried about being stuck in a smoking room in Geneva (I wasn’t). When I arrived I didn’t know where the hotel was. But getting on the bike and riding in France, that just made everything better.

Commune de Nernier, France

In Chens-Sur-Leman I passed a bakery and cursed myself for not bringing those couple of 2€ coins I still had left. They were in my pants I left in the bike shop and would be so better used stopping and enjoying a chocolate croissant.

Always use SPF 1000 on your feet

As I was riding on a beautiful country road I saw an old church and diverted to it. There I discovered a community called Commune de Nernier. What a neat old village right on Lake Geneva. It was gated and I don’t know if I was allowed to bike in it but I did.

Commune de Nernier, France

I was just so happy riding for part of a day in France. If I had any doubts about how much I love riding in France the smile on my face said it all today.

Commune de Nernier, France

I returned to Geneva and used some time to explore parts of the town. It is a great city and I don’t want to diminish how much I like it here too by raving about riding in France.

Geneva – Rhône River

Looking back, I had a week of climbing some classic cols. That brings a satisfaction, especially Stelvio, unlike anything else. But riding in France today — pure joy!

Geneva – Rhône River

Gavia Pass

BORMIO, ITALY

I was extremely disappointed today when James Shanahan, our Trek Travel guide, informed us we would not be riding the Mortirolo. It was the one climb that I wanted to do on this trip. I would say my ignorance of Italy before this trip was showing. Mortirolo and Gavia were the only two mountain passes I knew, completely ignoring or missing Stelvio Pass.

Rainy day in Bormio

“Italy has its Mortirolo, mountain of death; 124 persons to date have died on Mount Washington. Windier than Mont Ventoux, deadlier than the mountain of death; this is why for cyclists, Mount Washington stands above all other climbs. It is not hard just because it is steep. It is also windy and cold enough to be dangerous.” — New York Cycle Club

I wanted to add Mortirolo to my list but that will have to remain unachieved. Left to my own devices, I would have ridden it and almost decided to without support. But it was better to be safe than to be sorry, especially on the mountain called the mountain of death.

Bormio

The original ride was to be a loop ride with Mortirolo around to Gavia Pass and then a descent back to Bormio from Gavia. Instead of the loop, we were given a choice to ride to the Gavia pass and back. The beauty of an out-and-back (or up-and-down) was is that it is all uphill. Anytime we felt like turning around we could have. And this was good. This was the iconic climb where Andy Hampsten rode into history during a blizzard in 1988. Or we could not ride at all.

Colin Giffney

Last of the group leaving again, I always seemed to misplace something or needed one more item. Our group left and I chased, although it was not far before latching on.

Caitlin Steel navigates the cobbles in Bormio

For most of this week I rode with somebody. Only two of us came with nobody and today I rode with Colin Giffney (the other person who had no one) and Caitlin Steel. I was sweeping and felt better chatting with the last folks rather than simply riding ahead.

Chilly day on Gavia Pass

Although it had rained in the early morning, it was overcast and at first, I was overdressed. I stopped to remove my jacket and rode only in my short-sleeve jersey.

Climbing Gavia Pass

On the climb, Colin decided to really enjoy the memories of Stelvio and not suffer today. He turned around and went back. Caitlin and I continued and were joined by Jim Ashton, who had stopped with his son, Chris, earlier. So Jim, Caitlin, and I made the climb together, talking the entire way.

The bad weather made for some nice views

Our first day on this trip was a simple up-and-over in which I rode the ascent with Caitlin and her husband, Nick. On the second day, our first real climbing day, I rode the first climb mostly with Chris and Jim. Looking back at the week these were the folks I rode with most.

Rocky views while climbing Gavia Pass

Today’s climb was steady. There were sections that got to be a little bit hard, I saw 15% or 16% on the Garmin, but we went up together. On the lower section, I was wearing just my jersey but stopped to add my jacket as we got higher. I was now underdressed. Severely.

Caitlin Steel and Jim Ashton climbing Gavia Pass

At the top of the climb it leveled off, still a climb but only 1-2%. And it started misting a bit.

Caitlin Steel and Jim Ashton ride off into the sunset on Gavia Pass

As with many passes, there is a restaurant at the top and our folks from Trek Travel provided lunch for us plus a fireplace to warm up and dry out. For the descent, I changed to mostly dry clothes. It took me a week but I learned to include a dry jersey for the descents although today everything would soon be wet again.

Inside the restaurant the lunch was great. Many of us ordered soup and we all wanted to sit by the fireplace. My phone had died completely and I could no longer take any photos. I asked someone to take some photos inside and share them – but got none. It was, as might be expected, a tribute to Andy Hampsten’s iconic ride in 1988.

(Here I was tempted to grab one of many images on the Internet but any user can search and see Andy riding through the snow on his way to Bormio in horrific conditions. He did not win the stage – he finished seven seconds down behind Erik Breukink but had enough to take the lead in the Giro d’Italia. A great account titled Gavia 1988: Andy Hampsten’s Epic Stage, may still be available at PEZ Cycling News. It’s worth a read.)

Gavia Pass – The restaurant is to the right

Headed out, it was raining. Cold. Fog. Visibility was poor, maybe 75 meters. One of our riders headed down in the wrong direction. Ouch.

As I started my descent I passed three or four high school-aged boys coming up the mountain, all pushing their bikes. What a reminder that not everyone can ride up this climb. I gave thanks for good health and strength.

I passed three of our riders descending very cautiously then was on my own for a while. Not ironically, I was later joined by Chris, Jim, and two others. If they wanted to ride faster today I was willing to let them. Slick wet roads were no fun. But we all settled in and took it as fast as we could cautiously go.

Barry at the summit – Gavia Pass

It was here the realization set in that I would suck as a professional rider. Besides not being able to keep up with the peloton on the climbs, these guys take incredible risks on the descents. The thought occurred to me as we descended that if I was racing and someone wanted to go faster than me in these conditions – I would let them. Maybe as a 20-something I would take the risk but as a 50-something I was happy staying upright on the day. And cold.



Torri di Fraele

BORMIO, ITALY

Nice ride. Easy day. We all rolled out at 9:00 a.m. We began some small climbing (3-4% is almost a flat road here) to the town of Prado. Turning in town, we began a pretty steep little climb. This climb would take us to the main road, which was basically wide enough for one and one half cars. Luckily, there were few cars on this road because it only leads up to a dead end.

Torri di Fraele

The climb was to Torri di Fraele, towers built in 1391 (how do they really know?) which protected Bormio from invasion. Once we turned onto the real climb, there were 17 switchbacks to the top. Unlike the Stelvio, none were numbered or signed so we never knew our progress.

 

At the top of the climb

Reaching the top I went out to the towers and admired the view. With rain in the forecast, we noticed the weather seemed much cooler and took a main road back down, albeit a bit shorter, straighter, and probably steeper.

 

The big discussion last night was who wanted to ride back up Stelvio today. Two of our group would.

Gary Zentmeyer, James Shanahan, Don Sheppard

I had thought climbing Stelvio after this ride but with a big climb tomorrow and no support today for a Stelvio ride, decided against it. It was a wise decision. Both riders froze today on their descent. They had to be helped out of their clothes they were so cold.

Nick Steel, Barry

I simply did a bit of exploring in town before shutting it down for the day. Neat little town.

Stelvio Pass

BORMIO, ITALY

I will claim ignorance. As a cycling fan, I am embarrassed. Or I should be embarrassed. I knew nothing about the Stelvio.

Caitlin Steele, Sonja Schmidt

It was just a few weeks ago during the Giro d’Italia that the Stelvio pass made cycling news for days. The weather was so bad that the Giro either did or did not tell the teams that the descent would be neutralized for safety. The leaders flew down it, everyone else went reasonably and lost chunks of time.

 

Today, we would climb the famed passo Stelvio. And I knew nothing about it.

James Shanahan

We left the hotel in Moena by shuttle and drove a couple of hours to Prato. Once there, we offloaded at a hotel by an intersection of the roads. Sure hope Trek Travel had permission because we took over all the rest rooms for changing.

Hotel near Prato where we changed clothes

We rolled at out an intersection and I went first this time. I had no intention of being first up the climb and within one hundred meters I pulled over as my spokes were hitting the speed sensor on the fork. Everyone rolled by me as I readjusted the sensor and then rode tempo to catch the back of the group, but only after also adjusting the bike pump which was being hit by the crank.

The first four kilometers were pretty flat or trending up at one or two percent. Once at the base of the pass the road turned up in a beautiful forest with no idea why lies ahead. It was warm and I was sweating pretty heavily.

Hotel on the lower slopes of Stelvio

Having been last I caught and rode with Caitlin Steele and Colin Giffney. I have ridden with them quite a bit this week. We chatted without hardly noticing the steepness of the road in the forest. When we went by the Trek Travel guides they were astounded that we were just chatting away. We were supposed to be out of breath.

L-R: Caitlin Steel, Collin Giffney, Barry Sherry

Colin and Caitlyn stopped at a planned water/rest stop and I rode ahead, passing Bud Hoffacker and Anne Marie Redmond and then caught Chris and Jim Ashton. I’ve ridden with Chris and Jim quite a bit this week as well.

Near the top of the forest one sees the first sign – Tornanti 48. That is turn or switchback number 48. Only 47 to go. It would be another kilometer before the next turn.

 

Eventually we left the forest and could see nothing but road and hairpin curves ahead. I tried not to look for the summit but could not help it. It was so beautiful.

Jim and I started using the switchback numbers to talk about what we were doing and where we were living at that age. It made the time go by real fast. We were joined for a while by James Shanahan, our Trek Travel guide and Chris and he rode about 50 meters ahead while Jim and I talked.

Chris and Jim Ashton

Nearing the top we watched two snow plows coming down the road. This morning the road up here was snow covered. But with our two hour shuttle followed by a two hour climb, the road was clear although still wet in a lot of places.

At Turn 3 James stayed behind watching for other riders coming up the road. Chris, Jim and I rode ahead until Turn 1 when I pulled over and made 10 or 12 beautifully packed snowballs. The snow was the perfect consistency for this purpose. I lofted one down two switchbacks below and it landed near James’ feet. Then another. And another. He looked up and thought I was trying to throw snowballs all around him. I wasn’t. I was trying to hit him but my throws sucked.

L-R: Jim Ashton, Barry Sherry, James Shanahan

One more switchback and I reached the top. It was cold although the Trek Travel van was parked just before the summit and it seemed to be 10 degrees (5.5 C) warmer on this side than at the top or going over the other side.

 

Lunch was on our own at the top. Although there were two restaurants which offered warm seating inside, James recommended “Richard,” an Austrian who sets up a grill and cooks bratwurst. That was good enough for me.

Richard’s Bratwurst

Haven ridden up the pass with Chris and Jim, we descended together. On this side there were tunnels. In fact Garmin lost its satellite connection for a while as we zipped in and out of the tunnels.

Both Chris and Jim are excellent descenders and I fell in behind Chris’ line. We were flying as we entered a tunnel. It was dark and featured a sharp right-hander followed by a left hand curve at the exit. The eyes did not adjust from snow covered mountains to dark (with sunglasses on) instantly.

Looking towards Bormio

I followed Chris’ flashing rear light as we went wide in the turn. It was wet in the tunnel with snow melt. Chris went wide so I did too. As he recovered and went back to the right side of the road I was still over the center line when a car, with no lights, appeared in front of me. I touched the rear brakes and my biked fishtailed right in front of the car. I adjusted and brought the bike back under control and missed a head on collision by six inches or so. We did not enter a tunnel with speed after that. Chris apologized profusely.

Jim and Chris Ashton

There are a number of switchbacks on the Bormio side of the mountain as well although not 48 of them (I think there are 40). One of them, as I would discover later, passed within 10 meters of Switzerland and there is a road at another switchback that goes to Switzerland. The border there was about 100 meters away.

We didn’t know to stop to visit Switzerland but for me it was a moot point as I will be in Switzerland later in the week. We followed the road to Bormio then checked into out hotel for the night.

Just down from passo Stelvio on the Bormio side

Stelvio Pass is the highest paved pass in Italy. It is a classic climb that, quite frankly, wasn’t that hard. Of course, I wasn’t racing. But at no point did I think of it as too hard or had to fight myself to keep going. I doubt I get to ride this again but I would love to. It is a great one.

Cold, Wet, Sleet

MOENA, ITALY

After yesterday’s big effort on San Pellegrino (it kicked my butt) the prudent thing would be to go easy, possibly even taking the day off. Some did. I did not. Not everyone showed up for today’s ride. I did. At the start it was gray and chilly with rain in the forecast.

Climbing up towards Sella
Climbing up towards Sella – Part 1

We rolled out at 9:00 a.m. Well, they rolled out at 9:00. I had to go back to my room to get my Garmin. I left it in my room then had to chase for three km before I got back on.

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Riding in memory of Jamie Roberts

We had a quick rest stop in Canazei. James Shanahan, our guide, encouraged us to ride (as opposed to standing around “resting”). James was always a big fan of moving and not resting. The weather did not look good. Unlike yesterday when I was first to go, I was last to roll out from the rest stop. I was going to take it slow. I rode for a while with Colin Giffney, a New Zealander.

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Like the roads we climb, this waterfall down in the mountain
is much steeper than the camera captures

Colin and I chatted about the difficulty of riding on the “wrong side” of the road. About his grandsons. About the Sydney Zoo (he took his grandsons). I asked if they have all American animals. (See, in our zoos we have koalas, and dingos, and duckbill platypusses/platypi*.) Colin had a new camera that kept giving him a disc error so when he stopped to take pictures he always had to reboot.

The climb up the Stella is 5.5 km at 7.9% grade from the crossroads to the Pordoi. We started in Canazei which was another 5.5 km of climbing.

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At the base of the first climb in Canazei

I caught up to Nick and Caitlin Steel from California. Nick is a beast of a rider but we rode at Caitlin’s pace, which was more my pace, and really enjoyed the climb. Reaching passo Sella, the winds kicked up and it began to rain.

a

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Climbing up towards Sella – Part 2

Caitlin decided to turn back, which was a prudent decision. Colin did too. Apparently half the group did too. Prudent. I didn’t. Not prudent.

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Source: http://www.thomsonbiketours.com/
We did not see stunning views because of the weather
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We did not stay long at the top. Just long enough to grab a jacket and put on some warm clothes for the descent and crappy weather.

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passo Sella – Just before the rain

As we descended off the Sella the rain turned to sleet. The ice pellets stung as they hit.

CWS_18

At the bottom we began our second climb. In the opposite direction I was passed by a Team BMC car followed about five minutes later by a BMC rider. I don’t know who that was but was probably Daniel Oss or Manuel Quinziato, both of whom are from the Dolomiti region in Italy. (Unbeknownst to me, Tejay van Garderen passed our group yesterday on Passo Fedaia. But it didn’t look like Tejay.)

CWS_19

The second climb was over passo Gardena, a pretty easy climb except for the cold blowing rain. It is rated as just 5.8 km with an average grade of 4.4%. I had passed some riders who were up the road and we waited at the pass. But then Bud Hoffacker and Anne Marie Redmond took seats in the SAG wagon. Prudent. It was a nasty bitter day.

CWS_07

That meant I was last on the road. Well, I was along with Sonja Schmidt, our guide. I took off first on the descent although I stopped for a photo op. In the pouring rain. She passed me and had two full switchbacks on me as a head start once I was done taking pictures. I’m not sure what she thought when I caught her in those weather conditions.

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Beginning of the descent from passo Gardena

Sonja and I reached the bottom in Corvara and began another climb with switchbacks. This was a 6 km climb at 5.8% to passo Campolongo. We caught Jennifer Gands. I noticed I was mashing and Sonja was spinning. I asked her what size gear she had on the back and she said 30. I was running 27. She said “would you like a 30?” Well, yes. Later she switched the cassette and the rest of the week would be a tad bit easier.

CWS_09

The three of us rode to the summit together where the most serious decision of the day would be made.  Trek Travel had lunches for everyone inside a restaurant. I was cold and soaked and did not want to sit down for an extended period. At all really. While everyone still remaining went into the restaurant, James gave me directions and off I went on the descent before the final climb. Solo.

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James had said if I turn onto a road full of switchbacks, I’d know I was on the right road. He didn’t say 32 switchbacks. The rain stopped about halfway up but the wind picked up. Each switchback meant a different direction for the wind. The headwind was nearly impossible to pedal through. But the tailwind was almost strong enough to coast up the 6% grade.

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Helicopter Landing Stop Lights in Arabba

It was a long climb and I feared I would be brought back by Nick. I don’t know if my psyche could handle being caught two days straight after being spotted one hour. The climb up Pordoi is 9.2 km and averages 6.9%. Apparently it has 33 switchbacks so I must have missed one.

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Passing a fenced field of cows, there was one poor cow standing out on the road by herself. She was probably scared, not knowing how to get back in the field. And I was scared go go past her. I crept over to the far left, never making eye contact (challenge), and got by.

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Photo Credit: Trek Travel

Those switchbacks seemingly went on forever. Eventually I could see a building that looked like a hotel at a pass. It was a hotel, but it wasn’t at the pass. There was another three km to ride after that but I could finally see the summit. The real one.

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Photo Credit: Trek Travel

After going over the summit of pass Pordoi, I had a pretty fast descent down 28 switchbacks, the first 12 of which we rode this morning before turning up to Sella. I was cold. Freezing. Soaked. Showing beginning signs of hypothermia. But I would make it down safely.

Colin told me he was in full hypothermia mode. He was shaking the entire way back and he had turned back after the first climb (Sella). It was cold.

CWS_14

Once back to Canazei it was a matter of retracing our morning route. There were some sweet descents on the road. I didn’t realize how much climbing we had done to arrive at Canazei. Arriving back at Moena, I was two kilometers short of 100 so rode out and made it a metric century. Then hit the shower. Rarely have I enjoyed a hot shower so much.

___
*There is no universally agreed plural of “platypus” in the English
language. Scientists generally use “platypuses” or simply “platypus”.
Colloquially, the term “platypi” is also used for the plural, although
this is technically incorrect and a form of Pseudo-Latin, the correct Greek plural would be “platypodes”. Source: Wikipedia 2014


Day 3 Itinerary – We did the Sella Ronda


Classic Climbs of the Dolomites

MOENA, ITALY

I came to Italy for the Trek Travel trip called Classic Climbs of the Dolomites. I arrived in Milan yesterday, and wasn’t too impressed, mostly because everywhere I walked I had to breathe in second-hand smoke. It was worse than Heinz Field after a Steelers win.

Milan Train Station

I took the train today to Verona then switched to Bolzano. I met our Trek Travel guide, Sonja Schmidt, at the train station where we were shuttled out to Nova Levante. On the mini-bus, I met Don Sheppard and we discovered we had a mutual friend in Lauren Hunt.

Milan Train Station

After grabbing our bikes, James Shanahan, had us introduce ourselves by offering a safety announcement. We had to choose one so I chose “watch out for cars, even while off the road,” offering up the case Jamie Roberts who was killed June 13 in Kentucky.

I brought a decal to put on my bike to remember Jamie

As I talked about Jamie we were showered on with tears from heaven. Lots of tears and it felt good.

Remembering Jamie

I missed a group announcement at having an “avid” riding option, which I hoped to do, and the whole group rolled out as one. We began a 5.5-mile climb, pretty easy. We mostly rolled together. Then we rolled over the top and down a number of switchbacks to Moena and our hotel, the Hotel Dolomiti, for the next three days.

Moena, Italy

Not much more to say. Met the group. Short ride. Looking forward to tomorrow

Itinerary Day 1

Royal Gorge

CAÑON CITY, COLORADO

DAY 9 (UNOFFICIAL) – RIDE THE ROCKIES

Last year the Day 6 route on Ride the Rockies was to be Salida to Cañon City across Royal Gorge. However, there was a major fire burning and we were rerouted.  
I extended my stay this year for a day to ride the missing portion from last year. Ideally, I could ride point to point from Colotaxi to Cañon City.  But I couldn’t pull that off logistically so I did the next best thing. I rode backward to the gorge loop. 
Royal Gorge Train
Last year we were looking at a mostly downhill ride to Cañon City from Salida so I knew I’d be riding uphill today until I turned around. And I started with a seven mile climb. 
Arkansas River from US 50
I passed one entrance for the Royal Gorge Bridge. I kept riding and crossed the Arkansas River. There I saw the second entrance with the sign “Bridge Closed Will Reopen.” I stopped at a rafting company and asked if the sign was real. The young lady assured me it was and directed me back three miles, uphill, to the visitor center. 
Sorry Folks. America’s Favorite Family Bridge is Closed for Maintenance

Arriving at the visitor center it appeared to be a restaurant. I saw a waitress. I didn’t ask anyone for help. I just decided to ride as far as to the gorge as I could ride. 
Fire Damage from 2013 Fire

It’s a gorge. My first thought was that I would ride downhill from the summit I had just crested. And the road went downhill at first. But then I was climbing again. A lot. And it made sense. The bridge is at the top of the gorge. 

I saw a closed Gorge Railroad. Also a couple of other boarded up businesses. At the end of pavement was a dirt road to a picnic area. Straight ahead the road looked like it might go to a bridge. But it was fenced off. So I rode on dirt. 
Dirt Leading to Picnic Area and Overlook

Arriving at the picnic area I saw rocks and dirt and a 1,000′ cliff. I carefully maneuvered my way down the rocks to a vantage point to see the gorge and bridge. We were high up. We were far away. It was windy. I was wearing cycling cleats.
The Bridge and Gorge from Far Far Away

Today was important to honor Jamie Roberts. Her name was on my calf and I made sure I would get here. No matter what.
Overlooking the Gorge and Honoring Jamie

It was windy. Again. There was a headwind out and a tailwind back. The bike rolled back towards Cañon City. I hit 49 mph but was very uncomfortable trying to push it higher. It was three days since I checked or added air to my tires and I did not have a pump. I thought the tires felt low and I wasn’t sure if an under-inflated tire was in danger of overheating and popping. The wind shifted and I was really afraid of pushing it. Riding is fun but I must keep it safe. (Like 49 mph is safe but 50 mph is dangerous.)
Looking Downstream at the Arkansas River

I didn’t ride across the Royal Gorge Bridge, and now probably never will, but I saw it from afar. Most importantly, I honored Jamie. 
Royal Gorge Bridge in Background

Texas 4000

CASTLE ROCK, COLORADO

 DAY 8 (UNOFFICIAL) – RIDE THE ROCKIES

Bradley Allen and I were talking last night about the Texas 4000. When Brad asked if they came through the area I looked and discovered the Rockies route was in Colorado Springs and traveling to Denver. I sent a quick text to Vanessa Beltran on the Ozarks route and she sent me their route. 
Brad Allen

I called Brad and suggested we do a road trip. He agreed. 
We drove to find the Texas 4000. When we did we turned around, at first looking to drive far ahead, park, then ride backward so we could ride with them. As we passed them, Brad rolled down his window and rang his cowbell. The riders were surprised and appreciative. I think. 
Texas 4000

We didn’t drive too far – maybe 3-4 miles when we saw the Texas 4000 lunch stop. We parked and introduced ourselves. We were told there were three groups on the road. We had passed the first six riders and rode back to find a group of three and a group of five. 

We set off into a vicious headwind. I followed Brad’s wheel but there was no draft. He went hard (I think) and I followed. My heart rate was higher than it had been at anytime climbing the passes. We were at 6,000 feet and maybe that’s a good excuse. (I did not have my heart rate monitor and regret that was the one day I didn’t. My heart was coming out my throat.)
Brad Allen and Texas 4000 Riders

After seven and one half miles and 30 minutes chasing into the wind I waved down a passing car and asked if they passed the Texas 4000 riders. They hadn’t. I thought it was pointless that we continue. I feared the other riders came from a side road that we had passed. I thought they may be at the lunch stop. Or they all ate lunch and were back on the road. We turned around. 
Riding for Jamie

Now we got the tailwind. I was glad to pull Brad. We flew. Brad was stroking my ego by occasionally dropping back and making me ease off. I was hitting more than 40 mph on the flats. It was the wind. 
Legs being photographed

It seemed like it was no time before we were back with the original six riders and today’s staff. We met all the Texas 4000 riders. All six that is. I almost immediately noticed most did not have their calves written on. We told them about Jamie Roberts although they knew as Vanessa had shared the message. And they all got to writing Jamie’s name on their calves. 
Texas 4000 Rockies Route plus Brad and Barry

We talked. Took pictures. Never could figure out where the other riders were. When it was time to roll out I decided I would ride with them for a little bit. 
Texas 4000 Rolling

The miles weren’t long. But the effort was hard and the reward was great meeting the Texas 4000. Seeing them embrace Jamie’s memory warmed my heart. Godspeed my friends. 
Packing for Jamie

Berthoud Pass

IDAHO SPRINGS, COLORADO
DAY 7 (UNOFFICIAL) – RIDE THE ROCKIES
Today was supposed to be my redo of Ride the Rockies Day 1. Bradley Allen picked me up at my hotel and we drove out to Idaho Springs for our start. The RTR ride started in Boulder but the Colorado State Patrol closed Boulder Canyon to vehicular traffic on Sunday. We would not have that luxury and best to keep it a safe ride and not ride through there.
Idaho Springs

On Sunday the riders rolled out in good weather with no idea what was ahead. Severely dropping temperatures, wind, rain and snow. Few riders made it over the 11,000 foot Berthoud Pass to Winter Park. Many made the climb but were not permitted to attempt the dangerous descent. And perhaps the majority were stopped at Empire and were told the course was closed. We had no such problem with the weather today

Barry and Brad

Twelve days ago I rode with a group of cancer riders in Pennsylvania. The one rider I rode with on both days was Jamie Roberts. I really liked her. We had stopped in at my sister, Betsy’s, house for ice and a bathroom break. I learned this morning Jamie was killed after being struck by a pickup truck in Kentucky yesterday. This hit me hard. Real hard.

Riding for Jamie
Last night while we were at dinner I was reliving my first couple of days with Team Portland and riding in Pennsylvania. I showed Brad a picture on my phone of the riders when they stopped at Betsy’s place.

Jamie Roberts, Betsy Sherry, Barry Sherry, Dan Johnson

Just as I was going to bed I checked Facebook and saw a couple of posts suggesting something horrific happened to one of the cancer riders. I messaged Trish Kallis but got no response. I went to bed wondering what happened.

In the morning it became clear when Sarah Eddy posted an article from the Baltimore Sun that a rider had been killed. And it was Jamie. I was crushed.

Jamie Roberts
Credit: Jamie’s Facebook Page

Bradley arrived and texted that he was at the hotel waiting. Through tears I was inside sharing the article on Facebook about Jamie. And when I came out of the hotel he asked if I was OK. Clearly I wasn’t.

I don’t think Bradley realized she was my friend when he was given a name but when I didn’t come out of the hotel immediately and he checked my status update, he knew for sure.

Bradley brought a Sharpie and we both wrote Jamie’s name on our calves. After parking in Idaho Springs (7,526′) we found a couple of cyclists to take our picture. I had been to Idaho Springs once before, if you don’t count yesterday. That was in 2007 when I rented a bike at a small store and rode up Mt. Evans. The store is gone, replaced by a Kum & Go.

One of the riders told us to forget our cue sheets and to follow US 40. He was wrong. We started out of Idaho Springs and saw that 40 merged into I-70. It was probably legal to ride on the shoulder but certainly no fun. And not real safe. The RTR directions were still marked on the road making it easy to follow.

The “Original” Hard Rock Cafe
Empire, Colorado
I wasn’t prepared for the amount of climbing to Empire and to the base of the climb to Berthoud Pass. And I certainly wasn’t prepared for the wind. It was wicked at times and always in our face.
Last General Store
It was Closed

My mind was consumed completely with Jamie. This was truly a day dedicated to her memory. Riding wasn’t fun today. I was consumed with sadness

Crossing Berthoud Pass

The climb was long but not especially difficulty, especially going as slow as I was. Up ahead Bradley had to wait for me. Often. The temperature dropped on the climb.

Looking back towards Empire
At the summit we took a picture being sure to show our dedication to Jamie’s memory. We also discovered we were at the Continental Divide which was a bit confusing to me. I crossed it at Rabbit Ears Pass and thought I crossed back at Loveland Pass. I’m thinking I crossed it one more time at I am unaware of.
Jamie on our minds and legs

Having “lost” the race to the summit I cautioned Bradley not to follow me down the mountain if I do something stupid. And off we went. His ultra-skinny body had its advantage in climbing but I roll faster downhill. I took off and eventually waited for him then we rode the lower slopes together.

Berthoud Pass – 11,307′

Arriving Winter Park we picked up my rental car which I had driven here on Sunday, went to lunch, then drove to the Loveland Pass ski area. We had hoped to ride to Idaho Springs from the ski area for an additional ride and more miles but it turned cold (55) and looked stormy. We hadn’t brought cold or foul weather riding gear.

Looking towards Winter Park

I climbed some big passes and tough climbs during Ride the Rockies. But today’s ride was the toughest.

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